Boris113 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 The 90 currently has a 300tdi and the original lt77 gearbox fitted, resulting in the engine sitting 6-8 inches further back than it would with the factory R380. The oil cooler pipes were extended by the previous owner by cutting them in the middle of the rubber and extending it with some plastic pipe wedged into the ends and jubliee clipped tight. They have always leaked at the extension but seem to have got worse, despite putting a second jubilee clip onto each end. Ideally I would like to swap this bodge for a proper solution but have little knowledge of hydraulic piping and associated costs. Could anyone advise which is the best option? 1. Steve Parker kit (extended pipes with all fittings) £62. 2. Remove dodgy extensions and replace with hydraulic pipe and compression fittings, using original pipe at either end of join. 3. Utilise existing unions at engine/oil cooler and replace complete length of rubber/metal pipe with 1 longer rubber section. Thank you in advance Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I had hoses made with BSP fittings and Dowty seals for my custom application, generally costs me about £30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Local hydraulics place, take old pipes and ask to have them remade but X inches longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Great stuff, thanks guys My local agricultural engineers build up hydraulic pipes so I'll pop round when I'm next back in the country. Is there any reason why they can't be made completely out of rubber to save the cost of them fabbing up the steel pipe sections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Apart from routing them so that they don't touch the rotating parts of the steering. I used the Steve Parker pipes because I was in the shop and they were cheap, they are simply standard pipes with the metal section cut and a piece of steel tube welded in to extend them. If I ever need to renew them I will just get them made up at the local tractor place. Just beware of vibration, the extra length really needs supporting in the middle as vibration causes the rad end to work loose. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks Paul, I'll save my pennies and get the Ag suppliers to build some up then find a way to support them once installed Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I had mine extended on my last 90. Pirtek reused the metal tube parts and used longer new rubber tube Crimped to the old tube. They did a really nice job but I remember it being a bit pricey. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Standard 200tdi/Diesel Turbo era pipes will fit, I just did exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Cheers guys Mo - Fingers crossed they won't be too expensive, I spend too much in the place already! Mav - 200tdi pipes don't look too expensive and would help keep everything as factory parts plus I can fit them straight away when I get back to UK instead of waiting for mine to be modified, were they a direct fit? Is the routing any different? Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohlins Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Or.....I have a 200tdi Disco engine in an Ex Army 110. My pipes had been made longer by simply soldering in standard plumbing copper pipe to the middle to what ever length was needed. I will,however,be replacing these soon with standard flexible hydraulic lines from a local agricultural place. I will fabricate a support as they pass by the galvanised inner guard to keep them in place. I wouldn't trust the copper pipe if on any speed corrugation the likes of which I find in Maroc for example. Having said that for forest off roading they have indeed stuck the pace well enough with no leaks from the solder for the past year. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Interesting. I replaced the ZF4HP22 auto in my Disco 300Tdi Series 1 with a R380 some time ago but, because of the high ambient temperatures experienced touring in the Australian outback - up to 55 degrees C - I decided to retain the original auto oil cooler and fitted the V8 adaptor to the R380, to lengthen the original oil cooler pipes I also just used copper pipe but rather than normal plumbing pipe I used 13mm refrigeration type "B" copper pipe which has a wall thickness of arround 1.2mm. To date and 25,000 rough road kilometers later there is no sign of fatigue, I put this down to additional bracketing from the bellhousing to both pipes so that there is zero movement in the extended section. If you do decide to do this however remember to use high quality silver solder - blue tip - expand the copper pipe to give you a good 1/2" of cup in which the original steel pipes will fit into and flush out the oxigenation flakes out of the pipes before re-fitting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohlins Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Interesting. I replaced the ZF4HP22 auto in my Disco 300Tdi Series 1 with a R380 some time ago but, because of the high ambient temperatures experienced touring in the Australian outback - up to 55 degrees C - I decided to retain the original auto oil cooler and fitted the V8 adaptor to the R380, to lengthen the original oil cooler pipes I also just used copper pipe but rather than normal plumbing pipe I used 13mm refrigeration type "B" copper pipe which has a wall thickness of arround 1.2mm. To date and 25,000 rough road kilometers later there is no sign of fatigue, I put this down to additional bracketing from the bellhousing to both pipes so that there is zero movement in the extended section. If you do decide to do this however remember to use high quality silver solder - blue tip - expand the copper pipe to give you a good 1/2" of cup in which the original steel pipes will fit into and flush out the oxigenation flakes out of the pipes before re-fitting them. Sounds like if a put an extra bracket on mine it just might do then!!!....I only get to 35c max here on a very good day! We both have a Land Rover......both with a copper pipe mod.......and both with the surname of Boyd... lol . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Ahh we Boyd's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Boy Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 thread resurrection.. Anyone know the land rover part numbers for the 200tdi pipes as I want to do the same. Have found two different numbers for the upper and lower pipes. Thanks Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Correct there are 2 different sets of pipes for Defender spec 200tdi engines/oil coolers, the end fittings are different one set has a flat flange & needs a 'O' ring seal, the other set have bell shaped ends & both will only fit the matching oil filter head & oil cooler adaptors on radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radioactive man Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Thanks, that is perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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