Any idea what could do this to a clutch?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Yup well spotted

These are the paddle clutches I do !

Paddle clutches are very different to Std ones. In very simple terms the hotter they get the harder they clamp, and , when they very very hot they will NOT slip. As a result if abused regauklrly they will mark the flywheel / covers, but you have to go some to do that. Again in simple terms these are far more expensive than a normal clutch, and are left to those who really need more than a std unit. However, a 200 / 300 tdi with a 9.5" clutch, upped fuelling / intercooler / tubro + say 35" simex can destroy a std clutch, even a good one.

Once a clutch "Slips" and yiou smell that acrid smell its damaged, do it too often and its game over.

Paddle clutches are a workld apart, race paddle clutches hae 3 paddles - unusabl;e on the road - its an on off switch. we use 6 as

that gives SOME road manners, more than 6 paddles and the benifit reducfes and is not that much better than a std unit.

For many peeps a paddle clutch is not required, what is required is a DECENT quality assembly, I would say LUK are the best out there,

fitting a cheap pattern white box assembly is plainly daft, its a big job to redo. Those who wnat more then a paddle will do exactly that. The pic

showing the paddle clutch plates was more to demonstate what a centre SHOULD look like !

Paddle clutches are not a cheap solution, they are a fab solution IF you ned one and can afford them, most peeps unless doing serious competition / abuse

won't need to spend that sort of money, but with non paddle systems there is a VAST range of dreadfjull stuff out there to be avioded, LUK is IMHO the best at the moment

I would caviat that a decent solid clutch release and a quality bearing is a good call, not much more than the best OEM ones and those DO fail quite easiloy as do std 200/300 forks

even with std clutches !!

Nige

[Landy-Novice]

I had a similar experience with a Borg and beck clutch last year with my old 200tdi with lt77, hadn't even done a thousand miles when the clutch let go and left me stranded here's a pic of the clutch that let go took a while to get replaced under warranty but they replaced it in the end, quality ain't what it used to be

same here. a b+b clutch in a 200tdi i did a few weeks back.

[Mo Murphy]

Ye Gods ! The flywheel must have been scrap too !

I've not come across LUK, is this a new brand ?

Mo

[cackshifter]

LUK is a big German brand. Like Sachs. My limited experience of both has been good.

[Landy-Novice]

Ye Gods ! The flywheel must have been scrap too !

I've not come across LUK, is this a new brand ?

Mo

im my case. the clutch must have broken up so quickly and with the rivets that hold the friction plate being made of stale cheese, the flywheel had not been damaged.

[Landy-Novice]

LUK is a big German brand. Like Sachs. My limited experience of both has been good.

sachs is good stuff but imoh. LUK is best bang for you buck.

[Anderzander]

I need a clutch for my series - and I was lined up to buy a B&B ..... Not now.

[cackshifter]

A long time ago Borg & Beck was made by Automotive Products at Leamington Spa. I think that somehow the names have been moved/sold. Now I think if you want one of those you need to buy AP Driveline. Sachs, like Boge & Lemforder, is a ZF brand. Having had a browse of the catalogues, Sachs & AP seem both 242mm plates like the Valeo 130 clutch, LUK is 235mm. It seems the V8 clutch is larger at 267mm; has anyone tried using one of those? I think the Motor & Diesel HD 265mm clutch might be that, presumably the flywheel would need to be redrilled?

[ejparrott]

I'm running Valeo clutches in my 88 and 109

[jackbw28]

Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate the shortcomings of poor clutches Nige. Much appreciated and very interesting.
Also, thanks to everybody else whose input has made me decide to import a LUK clutch. I'll be glad to know I'm going through all this effort for a part that should last some time!

Unfortunately I still haven't had enough time to do much with the car as of late, fingers crossed she keeps running with the BB clutch fitted atm!

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

LUK is worth the extra. ..not every needs an all singing dancing paddle clutch...and for those that dont LUK is in my opinion as good as youll get

[reb78]

Does anyone have a link to an LUK supplier? That would be quite handy - i assume the company distribute to parts suppliers, so knowing which landy parts guys stock LUK parts would be helpful.

[jeremy996]

I have now had two AP Driveline clutches go in 60,000 miles. The first lasted 40,000, the second, 20,000 miles, both with failed rivets that released the springs from the clutch centre. On non-Land Rovers, I am not heavy on clutches, with most lasting longer than my custody of the vehicle, 80-100k+miles.

Pictures and more rude comments on my blog, http://www.jeremymedwards.co.uk/Site/Land_Rover_Blog/Entries/2014/9/9_Yes%2C_May_2013_again!.html. Following comments on this thread, the replacement will be LUK and we will see if I can kill that too.

[jeremy996]

I rang AP Driveline this morning and spoke to someone called Stuart. He looked up the clutch kit reference and looked up the warranty claims for it and said that they have never had a similar failure before, having looked at seven years of records. ( I've had two in 13 months!).

I offered to send him the unit for evaluation but he wants me to send it back for a warranty claim via the original vendor, (a parts factor in Leicestershire). I appreciate that is the way that consumer law works, but for less hassle all around and good PR, wouldn't he be better off just asking me to send it direct?

Looking at the unit, there are witness marks on the side of the "stop pin", which suggest that one of the springs broke first, then the rivet broke after repeated hammering from the centre of the clutch. Either way it's knackered!

The LUK clutch goes in this afternoon.

[CwazyWabbit]

That's probably why they have no record of failures, apathy will set in somewhere along the warranty claim path.

[reb78]

The LUK clutch goes in this afternoon.

Where did you get it from?

[jeremy996]

Where did you get it from?

Two Leicestershire factors have them on the shelf, Parkers, http://www.thepartspeople.co.uk, and AVP, http://www.allvehicleparts.co.uk/home.php. My clutch kit was £98+VAT from AVP. Parkers was a little more.

I'm told that LUK are fairly common in agricultural machinery dealers and factors, so if you are having trouble locally, try one of those.

My LR is running well now, it's just my wallet that's sick; the labour bill is scary.

[Simon B]

I'll be needing a new clutch soon in the LR110 Isuzu hybrid, can you buy plates and covers separately?

[Anderzander]

eBay has Luk clutches for sale on there.

[sighnbox]

Just read this wish id found the write up yesterday would have saved would have saved me lots of research on what Luk part and a day of hassle with Euro parts giving me TWO LUK clutches that were wrong ones........

Having contacted LUK UK TEC department today ...The correct part number for a 200TDI clutch 110 0r 90 Defender is 624180600 This is a kit with the cover friction plate and the release bearing ...Tho throw the bearing a way and buy one from Nigel (on the site who wrote above about clutches ) website Megasqirt-V8 £50 for a all metal one and a extremely helpfully guy (has other great stuff for sale as well)

The LUK clutch kit is £98.34 with VAT from Motor Parts Direct (shop not internet) It was on the shelf and LUK uk tell me all Motor factors supply them as well ...cost unknown

[Simon Smith]

My Valeo of about 10 years old failed last weekend. Same symptoms of getting heavier until you couldn't depress the pedal and had to start in gear. Looks pretty much identical to the one in the original post, hardly any wear either.