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Td5 ecu extension loom


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Whilst I'm rebuilding my 90 to be more tow vehicle and carry the tools for my challenge truck build later I'd still like to go to pay and play days. Obviously water and ecu's don't get on very well so been looking at the loom extensions. For the money they are silly expensive, is it possible to cut the loom with a substantial pig tail of wires left on the ecu plug and then extend a new set of wires in between? I can't seen anything against it as it's no different to what I done with the mega squirt set up I had but just want to make sure before I cut into the loom.

Cheers

Tom

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don't cut your existing loom, find a used one on ebay & use that to make an extension loom.

Is it possibly to buy the female version of the connector for ecu? From all the places I've read it's very difficult to find and expensive so planned on using a durite super seal connector.

As for moving it to the bulkhead, I don't have one as it has a removal bar fitted. I was planning to put it on the rear wheel each near my webasto heater. Is that still possible with the standard loom ?

Cheers

Tom

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Is it possibly to buy the female version of the connector for ecu? From all the places I've read it's very difficult to find and expensive so planned on using a durite super seal connector.

As for moving it to the bulkhead, I don't have one as it has a removal bar fitted. I was planning to put it on the rear wheel each near my webasto heater. Is that still possible with the standard loom ?

Cheers

Tom

The female connectors are on the vehicle's harness, the male connectors are on the ECU box.

There are no wire to wire male connectors made in this series, only the PCB mounted male connectors.

If you look at the ready-made ECU extension harnesses, you'll see that the male connectors are, in fact, the PCB male connectors, which have had the wires soldered to their PCB pins, which have then been encased in plastic enclosures -

land_rover_loom_2_copy.jpg

When you work out the cost of the connectors and terminals + the cable + the sleeving + the enclosures for the male connectors + labour

The prices that suppliers charge, starts to look understandable.

I've seen write-ups on forums and blogs on the web, where people have claimed to have cut the vehicle's wiring harness, and inserted additional lengths of cable in each circuit (soldered and heatshrink covered), thus extending the length, without problems (don't forget that the crankshaft position sensor's wiring is screened).

If you want to make your own extension harness, both the Red and Black male and female connectors can be bought from Simtek -

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/red_econoseal_36_way/?k=:::1562574

1094_1562574.jpg

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/36_way_red_econoseal_female_cable_socket_cfp/?k=:::5901247

1094_5901247.jpg

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/econoseal_36_way_wire-to-board_tab_header/?k=:::1562594

1094_1562594.jpg

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/red_econoseal_36_way_wire_to_board/?k=:::5704469

1094_5704469.jpg

.

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I remember soldering the connectors on the mega squirt unit and it took me an age to do a very neat job and heat shrink one. I wouldn't be able to produce such a professional enclosure either with out drawing my own design and getting it 3D printed. For the cost of one i think I will just bite it and buy one. At least it will work first time and If it goes wrong I can go back to then under warranty.

Cheers for the help and advice

Tom

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Not having a bulkhead isn't necessarily a problem... this is how I did mine:

http://landytravels.com/2013/03/clearing-the-under-seat-box/

There's a pic of the cover for it here:

http://landytravels.com/2013/11/mounted-and-covered/

The cover is only really there to prevent the wiring being damaged/pulled by people jamming stuff behind the seat.

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