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Anglo-Frenchman

Td5 Injector seals

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Hi,

I'm going to replace the injector seals on my 2002 Disco II to see if that resolves my starting issues. Replacing the fuel pump and filter have improved things slightly but it still requires two or three spins to get it started from cold or if it's been standing for a couple of hours. I've done some research and found a very good article by a guy who's done this work and covers it off with good photos and plenty of detail. (Refer: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector%20Seals.html)

I'd be greatful that if anyone who has done this themselves, could perhaps let me know if there are any particular issues I'm likely to encounter along the way which are not covered off in the article. Is it work replacing the injector loom as well? Also how long the job is likely to take? The Disco is our only car so good to know if it's a 3 hour or 6 hour job!

Thanks in advance

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Only issue you might have is removing the injectors...unless you have the correct tool and Only use the Gen LR washers.

If it was me I would do the following before going at the injectors,

Replace the injector harness and check at ECU end for migrating oil.

Td5s like a good strong battery......and I would check the starter motor too.

N.

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What happens after the two or three times of trying to start? When she fires up, is it a smooth idle? or is she lumpy and smokes and then idles smooth? Have you tested the glow plug system?

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When she fires she runs pretty well. This evening we went out and did some shopping. Came back to the car park after 40 minutes. Refused to start. Cranked over 3-4 times nothing. Primed the pump for 30 seconds or so then tried again. Fired straight away and then died after 5 seconds running. Left her for about 3-4 minutes then tried again. Fired after about 5 seconds of cranking and ran perfectly. Drove home 5km no issues. It just doesn't feel like glo plugs because she's hard to start even when warm now.

Incidentally, I noticed a buzzing sound from somewhere in the fuse box under the steering wheel when the key was in the pump prime position. Like a relay or something. Not noticed that before.

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I should add the following. I've traced the buzzing under the dash to the little induction fan that takes in cabin air for temperature so unrelated to the starting issues. Also the pump still sounds quite noisy when priming so not sure if the loom is the issue. Any thoughts? Thanks.

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When all of the injectors are out,disable the fuel pump and crank the engine for a few seconds.This will blow out any fuel that has drained from the gallery down into the combustion chambers.There is a chance that this could lock the engine and bend con rods when you first try to start it after reassembly.

We have seen several TD5's with a bent rod and low piston protrusion on cyl #1 - seems odd its that cyl,but I guess most people would remove injector 1 first.Any fuel in the gallery goes straight in.

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That is a good indication that its not the glow plugs, that is why I asked the question. It does seem you have a fuel pressure concern by the description.

AllyV8 is giving vital tips, follow them religiously. To add to that I put a few rags over the open engine or the rocker cover because that fuel gets moved out of the cylinders at great speed.

To answer your harness question, it is a quick job to do and not expensive, I would renew it in any case while doing the injector washers and seals.

Please keep the injectors to their allocated locations, I would re adjust the injector pre loads while there, adjust fully in and back it off one turn and lock it down. The cam shaft is marked with the number of the injector to adjust the preload, its on the front of the cam.

I would also do the rocker cover gasket and grommets while there.

If this is your first time, make yourself ready for a 6+ hour job.

Sorry, forgot to say the number one cylinder on TD5 is the MOST important cylinder for start up, if the compression is down as AllyV8 said it will have problems firing up instantly like we know they are capable of.

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Thanks a lot for the information guys. I've now ordered the parts from the UK so I'll get cracking as soon as they arrive. about 300% cheaper than buying locally. Also ordering a cam shaft locking pin and viscous fan wrench as I don't have either of threse!

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If you are only removing the injectors to do o rings and washers you don't need to lock or time the cam,just rotate the engine to move the lobes out of the way for removal/replacement.Then again to set the lobes at full lift to set the pushrods.

If the car is a manual box you can easily turn the engine by jacking the rhf wheel just clear of the ground,stick it in 5th gear and turn the wheel with your foot.No good for an auto though....

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Something I meant to ask (as I await the arrival of parts from the UK) is whether it is visibly apparent that the injector seals are/have been leaking when you take them out? Thanks.

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Something I meant to ask (as I await the arrival of parts from the UK) is whether it is visibly apparent that the injector seals are/have been leaking when you take them out? Thanks.

Yes you can usually see uneven patterns of discolouration and staining on the outer surface of the injectors where the hot combustion gases have been escaping up the sides and into the fuel-return passage.

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Thanks for the information and I've made a start on the removal of the injectors. Upon removing the rocker cover it was apparent that the harness was very oily. The connector plug under the rocker is also full of oil, so probably not a good sign.

In the process of removing the harness plug connection, I cracked the small coolant pipe that runs between the header tank and the top of the EGR cooler at the front of the engine. It was extremely brittle. Does anyone know the part number of this pipe?

Anyway I'll start removong the injector tomorrow and report on progress.

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I'm not sure if that is the part - it's quite hard to tell. I've attched a photo of where the pipe connects onto the cooler if that helps and also where it exits the bottom of the header tank (it's the pipe on the RHS).

post-1058-0-91664400-1410031969_thumb.jpg

post-1058-0-54001900-1410032033_thumb.jpg

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Hi Griff. Thanks very much for the link. Unfortunately I can't see the exact hose that I need on the diagram. They don't seem to list any hoses coming from the bottom of the header tank. This library photo shows the pipe coming off the top of the EGR heat exchanger and is the one I need. I may have to visit my local LR dealer to ID the hose and then purchase elsewhere if the cost is prohibitive.

post-1058-0-48714000-1410208720_thumb.jpg

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Hi. I identified the hose part that I need which is PCH001360 and found a place in Oz that'll do it for arounf $45 which is a lot better than the $180 that the local dealer wants.

Moving on to the replacement of the injector harness, can anyone advise the best way to clean the accumulated oil out of the female half of the plug that the harness connects to under the front of the rocker cover? I'm a bit reluctant to squirt and thing into it like WD40 but I'm not sure how else to drive the oil out of the little pin holes. Thanks - as ever!

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Electrical switch cleaner should do it. Just evaporates off. Some might mention brake cleaner as well.

Griff

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I use brake cleaner and the airline,works fine for me.Just be aware that some kinds of brake cleaner will make the rubber seals swell up if left on too long.

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