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Td5 Injector seals


Anglo-Frenchman

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Hi all,

I thought I'd just revisit this topic to say that I have now completed the replacement of my injector seals and normal service seems to have resumed (touch wood). For the benefit of others, I thought that I would list some personal observations that I made about the job.

  1. The article that I followed (quoted in my first post) is very good and helps greatly however as pointed out by others on this forum, you don't need to remove the fan or lock the cam.
  2. Be REALLY careful when you disconnect the injector harness plug under the front of the rocker cover that you don't break the plastic pipe that runs between the EGR cooler and the header tank. It's more fragile than the Dead Sea Scrolls - brittle isn't the word. My advice is to replace it anyway if it's original because if it doesn't break now, it'll break later.
  3. Replace the fuel injector harness. Mine was very oily and there was lots of oil in all the plug connections which should be thoroughly cleaned out.
  4. I found it imossible to disconnect the second fuel pipe from the fuel cooler to drain fuel from the cylinder head prior to the removal of the injectors - I think the term 'Quick Release connectors' is a misnomer. Instead I followed advice on thie forum and cranked the engine over a few times with the fuel pump disconected and the injectors out to expell any diesel from the cyliners prior to reassembly. Definately place a towel or something over the top of the engine first (clear of any moving parts) unless you want to spray diesel over the ceiling!
  5. Removing the injectors is very easy using one half of the disassembled adjustable grips as advised by others on this forum. You really don't need the special LR slide hammer tool.
  6. Damage to the old seals is very apparent (see attached photo). I found that the new seals are a VERY tight fit over the injectors and great care is required to install them. I carefully cleaned off some of the carbon from the injector stem with 400 grit abrasive paper and the applied some clean engine oil to help get them on. I ended up also having to use a small socket (8mm I think) over the injector stem and a little hammer to tap them into place. They deform very easily if you're not careful.
  7. Make sure that you follow the manual instructions for setting the pre-load on the injectors.
  8. Fit a new rocker cover gasket.
  9. I used the auto prime (pump the throttle 5 times with the key in position 1) to help expell air from the fuel lines but found that the engine still required quite a lot of cranking to fire.

So far I'm really pleased with the result and the Discovery starts nice and willingly again. A huge 'thank you' to all who provided advice - you probably saved me a couple of grand by doing it myself!

post-1058-0-60396600-1411329954_thumb.jpg

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Well done! Bet you're feeling good now.

On an aside, if considering this job and you don't have a puller/adjustable grips, the short end of an allen key carefully slipped under the mid section of the injectors and gently levered does a fine job of popping them out. I think it's a 6mm that works.

Interestingly, my new washers were a snug fit, but slid right on. I suppose it's a matter of production tolerances. I got mine from Turner Engineering and iirc they were genuine.

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  • 3 years later...

Hello guys,
I did the injector seals/washers change twice on my D2 and Defender.
when I proceeded, I was suggested by some mechanics to warm the washers until they got red, and then submerge in water. This way the copper becomes softer and gives better sealing.

I wonder if anyone of you did this? What do you think about? How long do you usually drive you car until you need another seal/washer change?

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7 hours ago, sandu_222 said:

Hello guys,
I did the injector seals/washers change twice on my D2 and Defender.
when I proceeded, I was suggested by some mechanics to warm the washers until they got red, and then submerge in water. This way the copper becomes softer and gives better sealing.

I wonder if anyone of you did this? What do you think about? How long do you usually drive you car until you need another seal/washer change?

When I replaced the head on my D2 I did that. It has been starting fine and no signs of leaking fuel anywhere, which is better than I can say about the head gasket....:angry2:

As for how long to drive.... I don't think there is a set replacement schedule for them, it's one of those "if it's not broken, don't fix it" sort of things.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have had my Disco td5 start and then die on a number of occasions over the years.  I am fairly convinced it is something to do with the electronic recognition of the key and the engine immobilisation system.  Most times if I re-arm and disarm the central locking system it starts and runs fine.  Also I agree the TD% loves a good battery

Hugh

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/4/2018 at 11:57 AM, DiscoHere said:

I have had my Disco td5 start and then die on a number of occasions over the years.  I am fairly convinced it is something to do with the electronic recognition of the key and the engine immobilisation system.  Most times if I re-arm and disarm the central locking system it starts and runs fine.  Also I agree the TD% loves a good battery

Hugh

This looks as a problem of immo... i have similar issues once in 1-2 months too

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