gonewestnz Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 What is preferred set up for winch control switches on the dash/interior. An on/off and a mom/off/mom or two off/mom one for wind in and the other for spool out ? Pros and cons ? Any one got a wiring diagram I'm looking at hard wiring my 8274 and also thinking of getting a remote and doing away with the wired winch controller thoughts? Any recommendations for remotes some eBay ones look a bit cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I use an on/off to energise the isolator solenoid and power the winch controls (both internal and external). I then have mom off mom for internal winch control. On our overland vehicle with a single winch with air operated freespool I use an off/on/on for the isolator with the second position operating the freespool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I have an on/off/on which I use to select off, inside controls or outside controls then on both the inside and outside I have mom/off/mom for in and out. For the inside I have carling switches, for the outside I just bolted the wander lead supplied to the grill. The reason I have this is my old winch had 4 individual solenoid contacts so if someone pressed in on one switch and out on another if would effectively short the battery. For the same reason I wouldn't use 2 off/mom switches, one for in and one for out. I would also think about the switch position, I put mine on the dash with enough space so you can press them individually with a glove on but I think they would be better to the right of the steering wheel or near the gear stick as it's not natural to drive and winch with your arm stretched right out in my opinion. It also makes it hard To look out the window etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 It'd be nice to have the switch on the gear stick My levers are right next to the auto gear stick. It's a lot easier to run. Only one winch is on the dash, because we have lodar radio-remote and Terry Winchman normally operates it. The on-off is next to the direction switch and has a flip over cover thing like a gunner switch. It's the same plastic-box as the diff locks and is a bit of a reach if you need to hold it in. On the diff locks you jab them with a finger and then get back to driving. I suppose it's how long you spend operating something that depends where it should go? Shame the wheel centre isn't static like the citron car They say the ebay ones are good. I had a maplins garage door controller and it just couldn't do the voltage drops. I went Lodar because it functions like something that cost a wodge. If you have line-of-sight I recon a low cost radio remote will be okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I've got a large pile of wiring and switches ready to go in at a suitable point in the rebuild... Consisting of a mom-off-mom for each of the two wiches and 1 isolation switch which powers the control switches inside and outside. I've got a waterproof toggle switch front and rear to go outside, Both of these will be on separate plugs so they can be isolated completely from the internal controls incase they get damaged. The winches will be isolated themselves by the massive isolator on the front of the battery box. Switches will be located on the front of the cubby box. I chose Mom-off-Mom switches so there was no chance of a winch solenoid being powered in both directions at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonewestnz Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Ok thanks guys think I'll go for an on-off toggle switch with "flip up aircraft cover" and a mom-off-mom to power winch in and out. The Gigglepin free spool came with flip up aircraft cover switch so i will fit that also. As for location I'll put them somewhere on my centre console near to my ARB switches which sit just behind the auto leaver as don't want to be stretching for them at a key moment. I would say I am mechanically minded not electrically minded so all this advice gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonewestnz Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Oh and the main winch power lead is a David bower one with big on off switch on passenger seat box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 This summer I wired incab switches for the winch doing the same as the others have said. I was lucky to find the momentum switches at 70% off at the local hardware store. 2 mom/off switches with mom/off/on switch. The icon stickers were downloaded form the internet. I sent them to a local printers who inverted the colors so that they are reverse of the originals. switch_relabel_icons.pdf Easy to wire in, common ground to all switches. Power to the main switch (fused), then from that switch power leads to the control switches. The control switches are then wired into the albright winch control. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonewestnz Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Thanks Todd good to see some photos and switch icons could be useful. I'm putting a fuse in the switch line as per the Albright wiring diagram would a 10amp continuous fuse with a 20amp max load be suitable or is this a bit big? Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Graham, A 10Amp fuse will be plenty. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Is that a fuse on the +ve control feed ? I'm about to wire up an albright too - though the diagram that came with mine has no fuses in it. On the net I've seen the positive drawn from the main positive feed into the solenoid - which would make a 3 core cable suitable to run it back to in car switches. I have a small wireless controller and my plan is to wire that up and the dash switches in this way : I was going to use the wander lead, as I rather like it, but I guess it's somewhat redundant with a wireless controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 The fuse I'm talking about is only the lead to the incab switches,my Albright is wired per your diagram. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I took a positive feed from the wander lead socket, but then fused it immediately and took it to the cab from there, with the aforementioned 3-core cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I ran the wander lead 3 core cable to the cab and back to the grill then split the cable at the dash for the dash switches. I even copied the red for power and green for action LEDs onto the dash so I know which switches are live and if it should be doing something. That way I didn't have to open up the winch and if I want to remove it I can just unplug the wander lead plug. Obviously only works if the solenoid is part of the winch. The isolators kept giving up on me (I like it near the battery and easily accessible) and the only better ones I could find were the very expensive marine ones so in the end I just got a big anderson connector, made a loop in the wire so now if you want to isolate it you just yank the loop and it unplugs the connector and cuts the power. Just put them in the wrong place :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 A looped Anderson worked excellent for Robot wars and was virtually the official method Here is my dash with the linked cut offs. The left red key was replaced with a big T handle one pretty quick. Once you have the contacts give out it makes sense to give up on the cheapies The gubbins' throws both at once to "disconnect the battery in one action". The smaller winch and difflock box is sot of mobile having trailing leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonewestnz Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Just to be sure before I wire in my wireless receiver does this look correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I can second the thought of placing the switch on the gearlever. I have had the switch (a switch from a electric window) for my winch this way for many years and it gives you a lot of freedom in the cab. The switch have been made redundant though but I so miss it from time to time. Mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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