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Micro Squirt Help


Pembslandy

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Please excuse this as my first posting on the forum. By way of an introduction my name is Alan from West Wales a Land Rover 90 owner and also technically inept.

Last year I bought an ex challenge truck. 1994 Range Rover 3.9 auto running micro squirt. The previous owner had done a couple of comp safari's with it and is tuned in that sort of vane as a 4.6. I use it for trialling and therefore running relatively low speed.

The truck ran relatively well albeit going through a lot of plugs and I also changed the MAP sensor and CTS sensor last year. I've competed a couple of times this year but after a lay up of a couple of months it is running like a bag of pooh.

To me (and remember the technically inept bit) it is over fuelling to the point that it just pops and "clogs" on acceleration and the amount of petrol fumes coming from the exhaust is enough to make your eyes water.

I am thinking that as MS is an electronic ECU, there is no way that the mapping could change on its own (and I haven't messed with it), so I have ordered some new sensors to see if that is a cause (MAP CTS and MAT)

I have bought an old laptop and put megatune on it, but I'm really not sure what I am looking at. It was an achievement in itself getting the laptop to talk to the ECU. The only thing I have checked is the coolant temp - and it rises accordingly.

All suggestions are welcome and as I said previously, please excuse this as my first post, but it is now driving me to distraction.

Regards

Alan

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If memory serves, Microsquirt is a bit close to the wire in being able to handle 8 injectors (it's more designed for motorbikes), let's hope it's not a dead driver transistor.

Sensors are a quick thing to check via the tuning software - if any of them are giving outlandish readings that's your first thing to investigate.

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Thank you for your suggestions. My next chance to look at it will be on the weekend as its at a friends. I am not that offay with mega tune but I assume that if the temperatures rise on the gauges for Coolant and Manifold then the sensors should be ok ? I am loathed to put another set of plugs in (BPR 6ES) as the last lot were sooted within half an hour.

I will report back with my findings

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Yes, one of the points of MS is that you can plug the laptop in and see what's going on.

Sensors generally fail in one of two ways: Open circuit / disconnected, or short-circuit. In either case this usually means the reading is nailed at one extreme of the gauge or the other. If the reading is in the ballpark of "about right" or at least not pegged at the end of the gauge, it's probably OK.

Bear in mind MAP will be pegged at about 100 when the engine is off. Also, lambda sensors can get coated in unburnt fuel and read wildly wrong if you run really rich for any length of time, this can then throw the O2 Correction off in the MS as the lambda sensor will read very lean despite running very rich, and the ECU will just keep adding fuel. It's a good idea to limit the O2 correction to a small range so it can't stray too far from the map, and if in doubt turn it off temporarily to avoid confusing the issue.

Also check you have MegaTune configured for the correct version of ECU firmware, usually it will throw an error up if it detects the wrong version.

As Bowie says, don't discount the more obvious "hardware" issues like stuck injectors / fuel pressure regulators etc.

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That's really interesting, I hadn't considered the Lamda previously. But it is a distinct possibility with the amount of unburnt fuel that is being thrown into the exhaust.

If I am reading your post correctly above, it is possible to disable O2 correction as a way of testing the lambda ?

I really need a few hours of uninterrupted "man time" with my lap top and ECU to try and understand what is going on. Even the interface of megatune scares the heck out of me !!

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Buy TunerStudio MS, it is a lot nicer to use.....

And yes you can disable o2 correction, but that shouldn;t be the cause of running THAT rich.... unless someone has set the authority WAY too high -it should be around 5%

Additionally, the O2 correction should NOT be active around idle or it'll hunt around, the RV8 likes to idle a bit rich. Generally I leave it switched off below 1500rpm ish.

+

Superb info - Thanks. I saw your reply on another thread ref cleaning the Lambda and setting the control authority to about 10%. Hopefully will have a few hours to play tomorrow. Want to change the fuel filter also need to check the MAT sensor. I have it unplugged at the moment, but if memory serves me correctly I was getting a temp reading in megatune when I tried it last week - but I could be wrong as I am as previously said a bit of a technophobe.

Will report my findings back.

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Further to my previous post, my friend has just rang me. He's been looking underneath this morning and the exhaust pipe and silencer have been pretty much crushed which would of happened on an event previous to the over- fuelling problems occurring. The lambda is 6" in front of this restriction. I'm hoping that this is causing the Lambda to give false readings. In hindsight this could possibly explain the sudden change to running between events.

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Sorry not much to report back since last posting. My friend has tested the Lambda and it appears to be kaput. I have ordered a new one plus we are going to be making a new rear exhaust/silencer up as the old one was beyond repair. Hopefully will be fitted next week and I will update when I get some more news.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Just a small update. We have made a new exhaust and fitted a new lambda. Also checked the CTS and MAT sensors which seem ok, also a put a new MAP sensor on. However the problem remains. It starts and ticks over really well and will take gentle acceleration up to around 2600rpm when it then appears to dump fuel in and backfire.

We have noticed that the spark at the plug is weak - yellowy orange instead of blue. Next port of call is to swap the coil packs for new.

Are we missing something fundamentally simple in addition to what we have already done. Someone has mentioned to check the TPS. Could that be a possible cause?

Cheers

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  • 3 months later...

Hi folks

Its been a while since I started this topic but time has been my enemy, plus my lack of knowledge. Hopefully this afternoon I managed to data log what is happening to my engine and with luck post the file here. Would be really grateful if it could be reviewed and explained to me with kid gloves if anything is apparent to my "over fueling" dilemma.

Many Thanks

Alan

datalog201501101348.msl.pdf

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Not really seeing anything that stands out, except the 255 value in your VE table, but you shouldn't be anywhere near that when the backfire happens (but I'd still get rid of it!).

Let's hope someone else can shed some more light on it.

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  • 6 months later...

It's been a long time since I started this thread - but at long last a few months ago I solved the problem. It was simply a case of the fuel pump being dirty and the injectors not getting enough fuel pressure and therefore staying open and causing the over fueling. I fitted a new HP fuel pump and new filters pre and post the pump and cross everything I have done two events now and everything seems as it should.

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