Another New Zealand Series Project

[deep]

Changes in circumstances (company car, can’t complain!) have meant that I barely use my trusty Stage One V8 any more, which seems such a shame. Worse, I find that, when I do use it, it’s mostly to do “Land Rovery” things, like crawling into nasty places (trailer attached) to get firewood; or wander down the river to more private swimming holes. The trouble is, it’s a very nice Stage One and it’s increasing age makes me more and more keen not to bend it or drown it. Consequently, each excursion is tempered with some trepidation, even though I have always been amazed at how easily it does its job.

I had tentatively thought I might find a cheap, bomby, not-legal-for-road Land Rover to use for the rougher, more local work, in order to save the more valuable Stage One, but I have a budget ludicrously close to zero, so I had been reduced to tyre-kicking rust-buckets.

Until last Sunday, when I went mad. I was wandering round a very cheap ($NZ500) Series IIa, kicking the deeply treaded tyres when I realised it was actually a “good ‘un” and well worth the money. Before I knew it, I’d hooked it up by the A-frame that was already fitted and was towing it home, wondering how I was actually going to pay for it!

Well, I found the money but it’s patently clear this is not going to be a strip-down, wallet-emptying restoration. I do have a clear vision, though. This is going to be a PROJECT. Massive V8 engine, massive tyres, portal diffs, tricky suspension ... in my dreams! No, the aim is to keep weight and cost down while improving strength and off-road ability, all on my cheapskate budget. I mean, if I could afford fancy stuff, I’d start with a 90. Or a Unimog. Etc.

Should be easy enough...

(More photos in the next post)

[deep]

The vehicle as bought. No roof, camo paint, complete with A-frame, frame on the back for hunters to lean on (NOT a roll-bar!) and not much else.

The chassis seems pretty good. Some surface rust but it’s obviously been fettled in the past.

New front chassis legs have been attached at some stage.... (photo)

... and replacement outriggers... (photo)

... and a very practical, home-made piece of channel steel at the back (photo), which I quite like.

There is plenty of surface rust and a few dings but it’s rock solid, which is a very good place to start. There are also mountings for a roll bar welded to the chassis, which will make life easier for me. The bulkhead is pretty good, with the only serious rust confined to a small area near the top driver’s door hinge. I’m happy with that.

The transmission seems really good. Only weeps a little oil, very quiet, doesn’t jump out of gear and both gearbox and transfer box change sweetly and securely. A very big plus!

Diffs are solid and quiet. The front brakes have new shoes and cylinders and the back brakes are good. The driver’s side swivel is very good but the passenger’s side is pitted and has let water in. Not a disaster.

The body panels are a mixed bag. Rear tub, seat box, bonnet and door bottoms are good enough. Front wing outers are ok-ish, inners are naff. I have a few spares though. Door tops are missing completely (and are not cheap to buy in NZ, mutter mumble).

The unusual feature (in an international sense) is the engine (photo).

It’s a Holden 202 cu inch in-line six, roughly the same as the Vauxhall Victor 3.3 six and part of a long heritage of GM sixes dating back to, I believe, the 1920s, though this seems to be an early ‘80s variant. These motors (or the more common 186 cu inch versions) were an extremely common modification for NZ Land Rovers, forty or so years ago, promising better power (~110b.h.p. @ 4,000r.p.m.; ~170ft lbs@ 2,400r.p.m.) and fuel economy than the standard 2 1/4 petrol engine with no weight gain. Hmm. It’ll have to do. For now.

Anyway, this motor must rank as one of the quietest (mechanically) engines I’ve ever heard. It’s spooky. It was running like a sick birds runny bum and smoking a fair bit but I felt it had potential. The big downside with this conversion is that it makes for the worst clutch actuation in the history of motoring. Ultra heavy, with such a short take-up it almost self-servoes. Plus this one lags, a bit like using a pre-selector gearbox. Ah well, we learn to adapt quickly enough. There must be something I can do to make it better, surely?

More next post...

[deep]

Beyond all that, a couple of nice LED floodlights (photo) will have to move before a branch rips them off. The trailer-type tail lights will go, to be replaced by new originals I somehow have in stock. Still on the rear end, there is a nice but, unfortunately, useless later model 50mm towball and a very solid towhook, which I believe is a Land Rover part. Does anyone know? (Photo).

The front has a convoluted but mostly solid collection of steel welded on, which will need serious attention (photo).

I have a 13,500lb winch on my Stage One, which will move across the shed to it’s new home on the little 88” fairly soon. That means some careful planning is in order. I want to protect the wings, give good approach angles for the front tyres, and try to tuck the A-frame mounts in closer. Another mate gave me some very solid steel from his scrap pile, which will be plenty sturdy enough for fabricating side rails and a decent front end, an absolute bonus. Should be lots of fun! He’s also got some good scrap pipe ideal for a proper roll bar.

Seats are non-standard but work. They’ll need waterproof covers. Or replacing!

One last thing. The Land Rover came with a very spiffy Optima battery, still under warranty. Not complaining about that, either! (Photo)

[deep]

The first few days with a new toy always wear me out. I want everything sorted, NOW, preferably without involving any terribly difficult work. So I run around in circles with tape measures and spanners until I get tired of running and finally settle down to do some work. If there is a lot to do, I usually make a list, which I find years later....

Anyhow, progress in the first few days has been good. A quick test drive around the property and a brief sneak down to the river revealed the good and bad but, overall, I was smiling.

Back in the workshop, the first job was to strip the alternator (wasn’t charging), have it tested, then put it back in. Though I didn’t actually repair anything, it now charges. Great. I have a more powerful one out of a V8 Discovery which I hope to fit at some stage or the winch will laugh hysterically at the fancy-pants battery. I’m not absolutely sure the v-belt will drive a 110W alternator under full load. Does anyone know?

Then a quick fiddle with the brakes, which felt wrong. The problem was a weeping bleed nipple, easily fixed. The adjusters have me scratching my head as they only actually work on one shoe per wheel. Nevertheless, I now have a firm pedal and can lock three wheels easily. The fourth is all new but the shoes don’t contact evenly. I think I can beat that, though the car stops straight and it’s okay for now. Attempts to adjust the handbrake have been frustrated by a seized adjuster screw and adjuster mounting nuts. The shoes and drums are good but a strip and rebuild is required anyway.

The strangest issue was that I had to remove half a gallon of oil from the engine, to bring the level down to the right place on the dipstick. This has reduced the smoking...

I have completely stripped and cleaned the carb. It had a wicked flat spot, right off idle, which made driving a pain. Now it’s gorgeous.

I have spent money!! Twenty dollars bought a new axle end cap (mm, shiny) and good second hand remote axle breathers. Worth the expense. Still trying to work out how to route the rear breather to avoid the exhaust. I might try to find a longer hose. Ultimately, I will do the cool thing and run them up the snorkel. It hasn’t got a snorkel but I have some bits lying around that will make something work. All that junk has a purpose. Isn’t that the truth?

I have spent a lot of time looking at the steel I have in stock and the extremities of the bodywork. And measuring and looking again. Did I mention a lot of time? Measure five times, weld once would be a good policy! I’m going to make rock sliders and am trying to decide if I want to weld them to the chassis or bolt them. Welding will involve removing the petrol tank, which will allow some rust prevention anyway. I suspect I will have that angle grinder out very soon. It’s hard to find that balance between wanting to protect everything and not adding too much weight. There are a lot of rocks and steep banks where I drive.

I’ve decided, for now anyway, to fit a bikini soft top. That’s because I have the bits that go over the windscreen and doors and a mate “lent” me the hoop that holds the bits behind the doors. Plus I have a bit of canvas that size. Long term, I think I want a standard full tilt. I need something, it rained yesterday. Oh yes, and those missing door tops!

I’ve also experimented with the wheels off my Stage One, which are a white spoked, wider type with quite a big offset, fitted with 255/85x16 BFG Mud Terrains. Though they just fit on the Stage One, they easily foul the rear guards on the little Land Rover (photo). As my plan is to use these on the project vehicle and find some nice standard rims and tyres for the Stage One (which I have now decided to replace with a diesel Discovery, long story), it looks like some panel chopping is in order. Oh dear. I fitted the same size tyres to a standard Range Rover and a jigsaw came in useful. I’m sure this will be less stressful than that! Now I have to find some cheap LWB rims for the Stage One as it would look very wrong on the SWB ones.

[deep]

Just a couple of little queries to finish on, if anyone is still reading: I’m keen on a bit of feedback re drivetrain and also ideas on sorting the front suspension.

I think a good Series IIa gearbox and transfer box are capable of handling a bit of work, if driven sensitively (how I like to drive). The half-shafts and diff heads, though, are possibly less capable, especially given the slight increase in engine power and tyre size. I disagree with people who say they’re made of cheese. More like crisp celery! Actually, you can go a long way on Rover axles if you’re sensitive but I would like a bit more strength. On that budget! I also, eventually, want to be able to fit some sort of traction aid at the back, preferably from the TrueTrac/Detroit locker school (strong and uncomplicated, once fitted). Again on that budget.

I’m a little confused. If I’ve got it right, the “stronger” Rover diff/axle options are all a higher ratio and 24 spline and not easy to fit into a Series (for example, I can get a new 3.54:1, 24 spline True Trac for around $830). There’s not really much room for a Salisbury. I believe I can get stronger half shafts made and pin/peg a diff. That doesn’t sound crazy simple though. Any thoughts? Please don’t suggest fitting something exotic or Japanese. That’s not going to happen! I’ll have to make do with what I have right now but the day will come when I’m out with some leadfoot types and will feel the need to keep up. I’ve heard that snapping sound before and I don’t like it!

In terms of suspension, I have always liked the simplicity of leaves and the ones on this vehicle are nice and supple and in good enough condition, if a little flat at the front. However, there is an Achilles heel with Series leaf suspension, in that the front axle can hop and wrap in conditions of marginal traction, especially when axles get a little crossed. That’s not too serious in itself but must be hard on those wet celery half-shafts.

I’ve heard an anti-wrap bar can prevent this but never seen one in action. It strikes me the forces involved are quite high too. If anyone can give some advice on how to sort the geometry and how to make a strong enough connection to the diff housing, I would be most grateful. That’s if I don’t run out of steam before I get there. Sadly, I’m the sort of bloke who, if something works okay, will move on...

[Cheesy]

That was a bargin, Ive been keeping an eye out for something like that too, easier to make road legal than a hybrid.

Clutch, depending on who did what turning down the sleeve that goes into the throw out bearing (more clearance to pressure plate) can help, there were also a couple of types of pressure plate I think.

Hand break, it never works for long, they dont have a longitudaly strut down by the gear box like the later ones, it all moves backwards and forwards on the engine mounts. Actually it might have it, mine was a very early one. What part of the country are you in

[deep]

I've always found Land Rover handbrakes repay a bit of tinkering. This type does push the whole engine/gearbox against the mounts when applied, as you say, though my mounts seem tight. Just all a bit worn and needs an hour or two of fettling.

Car seemed a bargain, which is why I grabbed it when I wasn't really planning to! It's been dereg'd though, so I'm not sure how many hoops I'm going to have to jump through to make it legal. Hoping I can farm reg it for now and can A-frame it if I go further than the local play spots, so I'm not panicking. Most of the sub $1,000 LRs have been on ****ty farms or beaches and have a perforated chassis! This one is remarkably good, though obviously has been repaired before.

I'm in the Manawatu, up the Pohangina Valley.

[Cheesy]

I've always found Land Rover handbrakes repay a bit of tinkering. This type does push the whole engine/gearbox against the mounts when applied, as you say, though my mounts seem tight. Just all a bit worn and needs an hour or two of fettling.

Car seemed a bargain, which is why I grabbed it when I wasn't really planning to! It's been dereg'd though, so I'm not sure how many hoops I'm going to have to jump through to make it legal. Hoping I can farm reg it for now and can A-frame it if I go further than the local play spots, so I'm not panicking. Most of the sub $1,000 LRs have been on ****ty farms or beaches and have a perforated chassis! This one is remarkably good, though obviously has been repaired before.

I'm in the Manawatu, up the Pohangina Valley.

Thats a bit far away, pretty sure I have a set of soft top hoops and things sitting in Timaru. I wish I hadnt sold my old rolling chassis, had 3.5 diffs, LWB twin leading shoe brakes and some random springs that flexed pretty well

[Soren Frimodt]

Great to see your new truck Deep!

With regards to anti wrap bar you really have to try it to believe it. It's not that easy to see when standing next to the car, but you can most definitely feel it from the drivers seat! So I say you have to fab up one in both ends you won't regret it. ( I swear in the name of the Princess we've stolen from your neck of the woods)

Which system you prefer will be all up to you, I know I love my setup and its dead easy to build.

Regarding axles I'd always vote for a Salisbury in the rear when it comes to bang for the buck! Nothing matches it and when shaved, even slightly not much hindrance offroad. Why don't you think you have room?

[deep]

Clutch, depending on who did what turning down the sleeve that goes into the throw out bearing (more clearance to pressure plate) can help, there were also a couple of types of pressure plate I think.

I remember there were two ways of doing the clutch, one bad, cheap and common and one quite effective and expensive! Thanks for the tips there. One day I'll do some dismantling and tweaking. It's an odd set-up, with the piston pushing the clutch lever down, rather than forward. I can live with it being heavy and short travel but the lag is clearly a problem that needs resolving soon!

[deep]

Great to see your new truck Deep!

With regards to anti wrap bar you really have to try it to believe it. It's not that easy to see when standing next to the car, but you can most definitely feel it from the drivers seat! So I say you have to fab up one in both ends you won't regret it. ( I swear in the name of the Princess we've stolen from your neck of the woods)

Which system you prefer will be all up to you, I know I love my setup and its dead easy to build.

Regarding axles I'd always vote for a Salisbury in the rear when it comes to bang for the buck! Nothing matches it and when shaved, even slightly not much hindrance offroad. Why don't you think you have room?

Thanks Sorren.

I remember reading about your anti-wrap bar. It was that, plus some comments Bill Van Snorkle made somewhere, that made me realise that is likely the single most worthwhile suspension tweak for a leaf-sprung Series. If I did that and got low friction springs, there would be little need for coils for the sort of use I foresee. Your thread is long and my internet slow so it'll take some dredging to find that part of your build. I do recall space was tight and something broke first time round. I presume, then that the stresses are serious. I'm wondering if just mounting a longitudinal hydraulic damper could work? Stop the oscillation by breaking any resonance but reduce the chance of breakage? Not sure! I think I've worked out a tidy way of mounting to the diff housing but lining up to a body mount in a way that doesn't conflict with other bits will take some head-scratching. I'm looking forward to the challenge.

I just noticed that you mentioned an anti-wrap bar at both ends. Is it that noticeable at the back too? I've never noticed those nasty suspension twists on a back axle.

I am a big fan of Salisburys too and I suppose fitting could be relatively straightforward. It's just the issue of running a shorter driveshaft, that then has to run at a steeper angle when the suspension is worked, that worries me (that and the weight!). I'll see how I go. I'd love a locker or limited slip unit, some of which are quite strong (if I can get matching half-shafts). It might be cheaper to do that to a Rover axle than a Salisbury. New Zealand is such a difficult place to get fancy stuff like that - there are no cheap options and England is clear round the world from here...

[De Ranged]

When you come up bring your trailer, I have a couple sets of LWB original wheels

[deep]

When you come up bring your trailer, I have a couple sets of LWB original wheels

You ripper! I'll see if I can find anything interesting in my shed to bring up...

[De Ranged]

A LWB station wagon roof and 2 door sides and I'll shout your fuel up lol or a coil sulsbury rear

A bit more realistically I'm trying to find a set of SIII headlight square surrounds and light fittings, I've got a good set of guards but they have been converted to run ford transit lights

[deep]

A LWB station wagon roof and 2 door sides and I'll shout your fuel up lol or a coil sulsbury rear

A bit more realistically I'm trying to find a set of SIII headlight square surrounds and light fittings, I've got a good set of guards but they have been converted to run ford transit lights

Well, I've got one mint two door LWB side panel (the panel behind the door - is that what you meant?) and a few spare wings with at least some light fittings still attached. I don't think I've got any square surrounds spare (though I used to have one, maybe I should look harder!). Nothing in the way of a roof at all, sorry. I'll fossick through my stuff and bring up what I can. How are you off for fuel fillers, tail lights (non-chrome round type) and door hinges? I have plenty of those.

[Bowie69]

Not sure how I missed this thread, looks a great truck, and I do love the no-money resto-mods that seem to be so prevalent from your neck of the woods

[deep]

Not sure how I missed this thread, looks a great truck, and I do love the no-money resto-mods that seem to be so prevalent from your neck of the woods

It can be offensive to some people down this way to spend money when you can get by with fencing wire and duct tape! Though I have two friends who have done wonderful things to their "90s", aided by a larger budget (I say "90s" - one is a cut-down 110 and the other a Range Rover chassis chopped around to take a 90 body). Variety is one of the things that make Land Rovers so different, in a very good way.

[deep]

Thats a bit far away, pretty sure I have a set of soft top hoops and things sitting in Timaru. I wish I hadnt sold my old rolling chassis, had 3.5 diffs, LWB twin leading shoe brakes and some random springs that flexed pretty well

You can't keep it all! Timaru is a fair way away. Not really a small country sometimes.

[Bowie69]

If it works, how can anyone knock it really?

My '91 Audi is in desperate need of a respray, but I will still make sure the engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes etc are up together before I even consider spraying it up, I mean when on the inside I can't see the peeling lacquer, right? Plus I want to drive it and enjoy it, not look at the outside of it.

[Soren Frimodt]

Hi Deep.

i feel like the anti-wrap thing sort of have been done to death, but then again it might just be because I've spoken to so many about it. Anyways I won't go into any lengthy discussion about. i can however give you some basic answers. First off yes it is just as noticeable on the back, but again you really need to try it to believe it, I didn't believe it myself till I finally did it. Especially on hill climbs with aired down tyres the difference is huge. Second yes I did have a failure on my front setup but that is mostly down to the fact that I've made over complicated because I didn't want to cut/mod the Series 1 chassis. so I cannot get a straight line from the axle point to the point at the bumper. Therefore my front wrap bar has quite a kink built into it. It has only ever failed once though, since I strengthened it some 3 years-ish ago I haven't had any problems. Bar the thread on the rosejoint that broke from metal fatigue because I didn't have any rubber in the system. Now sorted with a rose joint at the axle end and a shackle-bush at the chassis end.

With regards to axles, how hard are shafts (genuine, but used) from a coiler Sal's to come by down there? Drum or disc braked doesn't really matter. Then you could do my old trick of getting a 24 spline center in a series axle on the cheap.

[deep]

Thanks Sorren.

I've done some research and thinking about anti-wrap (actually, I've barely slept for thinking about it!) and believe I have a cunning enough plan that it will be worth a try. I take your point about doing both ends. I'm also considering fabricating swivelling shackle mounts. Those plus anti-wrap open the way for parabolic springs, sometime in the distant future. I am currently frustrated at the lack of time, grr, 'cos I really want to do all this stuff before my enthusiasm dries up. Anyway, it will probably take a week or three but I'll make more progress reports as it happens. The anti-wrap job is the most inspiring as everything else is to do with reliability and protection, whereas this is a genuine improvement to off-road ability.

I'm sure I can get coiler Salisbury shafts without too much trouble. Are you saying they would fit a 24 spline Rover type axle? If they really did, with the appropriate drive flange, that would be brilliant 'cos I could get myself a 24 spline Eaton or True Trac for Christmas (True Trac comes under budget, Eaton not sure yet). I'd be as happy as a pig in poop if I could do that!

Don

[Soren Frimodt]

Well sadly life isn't all that easy, but almost. You can use the short side shaft from a coiler Sal's on the short side of your 88". But on the long side you have a problem finding a 24/24 axle that'll fit. I just fitted a 24/10 from the later 88" the wrong way around so that the 10 spline is at the flange end you just need to make a locking ring grove in the 10 spline end, but that is easily done with a grinder. This way your weakest point will always be at that flange, however I've made two setups like this combined with airlockers, both have been passed on a couple of times and no-one has yet had a failure, one of the guys even runs his 88" quite hard at Pomerania twice a year. It seems as though the load is always greater at the diff than at the wheel. Should it break though, it'll be easy enough to change.

[deep]

Thanks so much, Sorren. It's what I wanted to hear. The budget is (over)blown for now but it's only a matter of time. I wouldn't consider the vehicle fully ready until I had axles I was happier with. I'm not a rip-and-bust driver but don't want to be too dainty with my driving!

[Normbourne]

I'm sure and have felt for quite some time that anti wrap bars are a definite advantage.

The. Love of my life is a series 2a 109 built in 1967 and is the subject of a 20 year + rebuild, so I am encouraged by the comments concerning same, I intend to fit both ends but will advise once I get into it.

Norm.

[deep]

Gosh, I haven't written about this Land Rover for months! Thanks for the prod, Norm. I must do an update as there has been some progress. Trouble is, I bought a 110 diesel that was partly dismantled and it's been a major distraction. I also got a rolling Range Rover chassis and wondered for a while if I should consider a "hybrid" (anti-wrap is built in on both ends with a coiler).

Meanwhile, it's Summer at long last and the little Series (now more complete with nice soft top) has been pressed into service taking me up the river to a decent swimming hole on a nearly daily basis. I'm loving it just as it is so there won't be anything fancy done to it until the 110 is up and running and hopefully legal.