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The freelander TD4 engine removal rebuild and refitting


discomikey

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Hi all,

Been let loose on a FL TD4 (55 plate) which went boom, recovery mechaninc has told the owner its the cam chain, although as the engine turns over (by hand), i was reluctant to believe that and according to the owner it actually started up after it stopped.

The crank turns over but feels a bit icky, pulling the sump revealed steel shards in the bottom, pointing to bottom end bearings. so out the engine comes.

after fetching from oop norf

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heres wot i found in the sump

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first off, i pulled the engine covers and the battery whilst draining engine, gearbox (jatco 5speed) oils and coolant

next step was the intercooler hoses so i could get in and see what i was doing.

onto the vast array of hoses pipes and wiring... it looks daunting, but really, its not...

at least if you know the special trick...

jack up the vehicle, remove the front wheels wheels and grovel on the floor with a screwdriver, and unscrew the inner arch and front "foglight area bottom covers" from the front bumper. it really pays to use a pick to clean the dirt out the screw head and use plenty of pressure to avoid slippage here!

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peel back inner liner, and undo the 2 bolts (8mm head) which hold the bumper and wing together (sorry no pic here) should be fairly obvious which ones.

remove the fog light plugs whilst you are in there and then repeat for the other side.

Remove the 3 plastic rivet type clips underneath the number plate area, and remove the bumper.

Once the bumper is off you can access the front fasteners for the under tray. these will be tight and corroded due to the mix of steel and ali. this is quite cumbersome so watch it doesent drop on your head when you remove. (sorry again no pics here) there are another 4? bolts at the back end which mount to the subframe.

do youself a favour and before you get any firther buy a set of "remote hose clip pliers" the amount of these clips they will certainly pay for themselves.

remove this hose clip and pull the hose off, place to one side.

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remove many many coolant hoses which connect the engine to the various components. i started with the heater matrix outlets on the bulkhead. i disconnected them at the "T" pieces too, (marking which one is which) and folded them up out of the way.

I then removed the top and bottom hose setup which is quite intricate, removing the autobox oil cooler at the same time, however there was a lot of ali-steel corrosion which knackered the threads on the cooler, i would suggest removing the cooler pipes from the transmission rather than the cooler for this reason. this cooler is held on by 2 bellhousing bolts, i loosely replace all fasteners on a job like this after removal where possible. (see pic below)

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coolant rail to expansion tank hose disconnected next (view from underneath here)

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vacuum tank for the turbo was then unbolted from the coolant pipe

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...

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i have a bit of a muddle of hoses here which without remembering exactly (i did this one frinday night and finished at like 3am) probably arent in the best order, sorry

removing a part of the complex top hose assembly, pull up the clip and just pull back, this is quite tight and requires wigglage

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more coolant hoses to be removed the 3 in the center section of the image

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pull this vacuum pipe off and tuck out the way for now

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The fuel hoses were disconnected next at the point of this valve type thing. just simple quick connects squeeze the blue bits and pull.

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further fuel pipe to disconnect here on the "chassis leg" under the terminal box

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bolt removed (8mm head) and the fuel sensor needs to come off with the fuel pipes.

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at this point its neccessary to remove the inlet manifold, to get at the fuel pipes, starter feed and other bits and bobs

take note of the position of the engine cover screw bracket, and undo all 13 fasteners, the long bolt goes in the bottom front (nearest the crank pulley) hole.

undo the special jubilee clip and disconnect EGR pipe

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manifold will now come free

...

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fuel pipe removal,

remove the clips from the injector return ports

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pull off the return line from the injectors, and undo the jubillee clips on the fuel pump ports, remove the hard lines (undoing 2 bolts) and fit the correct plugs (or some M8 bolts will do... )

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next we move onto the wheelarch.

using prybar to stop hub spinning, and breaker bar undo hub nut

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when you have bent prybar, source some adequate box section, still fail to undo it

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use bit of extra pipe to extend breaker bar, watch while it bends like a banana then look away incase it breaks... the nut will now slowly break loose

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using COPPER hammer hit the shaft with a hammer to break free the rust seal which normally siezes the splines. i was lucky and both were free.

undo lower ball joint nut (21mm head) hit with hammer to break taper (not on threads obvously) and lever wishbone away from hub

i used box section and g clamp

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using my most favorite and awesom extra long ring spanner, (and 17mm open end on the flats the other side of the joint) break the ARB bolts loose. disconnect links.post-13725-0-24027300-1410893549_thumb.jpg

once this is complete crawl underneath on the dirty floor and struggle to undo the engine support link and the 6x subframe retaining bolts. subsequently get squashed by said subframe as the last bolt comes out and put a banadage on your head...

or if you have a ramp, "simply remove the subframe whilst comfortably standing underneath the vehicle :closedeyes: "

(sorry no pics of this bit)

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using a pry bar against a suitably strong part of the aluminium IRD/gearbox casting, take a few fast "prys" at the driveshaft and it will pop out, wrecking your thumbnail for the 3rd time in as many months!

This next part is where i went wrong, i will document it anyway for benefit of others.

remove all electrical connectors on the engine, some of which are incredibly hard to get to, and then thread the harness back trhough all the hose and pipework left on the engine.

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or, open up the junction box behind the battery, and simply disconnect the harness that end leaving with the engine saving an hour or 2 of swearing!

remove the starter feed, and REMEMBER TO UNBOLT THE EARTH FROM THE GEARBOX.....

its ALWAYS the earth that i forget...?

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remove the 2 plugs going to the auto box, they are twist and pull to disconnect.

back under the vehicle, release tension on the aux belt and remove the air con pump bolts. these will be corroded, because of the ali castings, and can be easily snapped so go steady. carefully dangle the air con pump by its hoses. be sure you dont knock it upon removal of the engine.

remove the pipes to the PAS pump, i used some brake pipe clamp type things to stop loss of fluid. leave attached to reservoir and prop hose ends above level of reservoir, blank ends of hoses and pump ports

now. i THINK... i have not missed anything out.

support the engine somehow (i used a pallet and 2 tyres which is the HSE approved method according to LOLER and HASAWA) honest...

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finally, once supported, remove engine mounts and press the button on your ramp and the vehicle will go up effortlessly, stop every inch or so and check, once you are clear, get a pallet truck and move the pallet out the way.

alternatively, attach engine hoist/loader tractor/gantree to front bumper, lift the freelander, remove axle stands, lower as far as possible, support engine on a board with wheels, undo engine mounts and lift as high as possible, it can be done, thats how it was reccomended to me.

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engine dissassembly to come hopefully will make a start on friday :)

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You can actually drop the engine out fully dressed, without removing the bumper or any ancillaries.

Do you think its worth rebuilding the engine that's was in there? I think i'd be more tempted to swap in another lump, maybe a low mileage rover 75 one? The 75 engine is a very similar spec to freelander ones. I'm pretty sure that the later 75's have the freelander sump with the ird end casing bracket mounting holes in it.

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You can actually drop the engine out fully dressed, without removing the bumper or any ancillaries.

Do you think its worth rebuilding the engine that's was in there? I think i'd be more tempted to swap in another lump, maybe a low mileage rover 75 one? The 75 engine is a very similar spec to freelander ones. I'm pretty sure that the later 75's have the freelander sump with the ird end casing bracket mounting holes in it.

I removed the air con pump to save degassing, and wish i had thought about the harness before but hey ho, i removed the bumper more as a matter of leaning over it all the time, its not hard to do and it stops the chance of you or tools scratching it whilst leanin over.

with regards to rebuilding the engine, the owner wanted a new engine fitting, but with a warranty. any engines i can find with a warranty are 1200 + so i said i would investigate and see if it might be worth rebuilding. if it were mine, i would just pick a low mileage ebay special up for £300-£400 and have done with it, but that can be a gamble, and its not my gamble to take on this one. At least with a rebuild, i know the engine is in good condition, and to be honest, if i were to get a cheaper engine off eblag, i would probably strip it to a certain extent anyway to check its a goodun, and not about to do the same as this one did.

at £8 a journal for a regrind and around £120 for a set of shells, the top end shouldnt need touching, and the rest will just need a check over. consumables and any parts it may need once i dig into it, should wind me up at about the same cost as a eblag engine anyway according to my calculations, but i know it is then good. i have rebuilt plenty of engines before so not afraid, or intimidated by it.

im not charging a lot for labour and i have said i would actually cap it at a certain cost, as its more of a favour than anything else.

Good stuff, just hope I never need to refer to it!

I think i made it harder than it needs to be, looking at RAVE afterwards, it seems oh so simple :)

Been busy.... and yes I was reading the loom bit like ".... I'm sure it must unplug, you can't imagine them doing this at the factory during assembly, can you?"

You live and learn :)

Looks like we share the same tool box...

we certainly do, is yours way too small aswell? i have just splashed out on a special service cart with 2 extra draws so i dont wind up carrying tools and parts bit by bit around the workshop, and somewhere to store the more commonly used tools. :D

i really want a 42" set though!

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Too small... yes, can't get my 3/4" breaker bar in it... but for the first time in ages I can actually move it around on it's wheels at the moment, so that is always a bonus :)

A service cart is on my list of wants for sure.

i will post a pic of it on friday when i get back to the farm, just to make you jelous, also because its something from a company i have been enthusiastic yet unsure about for a while, because i have never actually seen one in the flesh i thought this would be a good way to test the water with the company and their tool storage. so will be offering a review of the cart.

Yeah, doesn't it always though?

true, true. stupidly enough i have a workshop laptop with rave on in the workshop and internet access, although i was at the time using it for a facebuk convo with the missus,ask me, whats the point?

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yes. although with the remainder of this thread to make it much easier for anyone to follow i will try and do things in a better fashion, and maybe even write the posts whilst i do it. great thing is skydrive not having to plug in your camera, its just there instantly ready to add to the post.

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  • 4 weeks later...

more pictures, long and short of it the crank had snapped, priced up a second hand crank, polish, matching shells and other parts was looking at about £700, found an engine of a lower mileage for £550 on the interweb with 69k on the clock so i picked it up and it has a month warranty so if it doesent work then im covered.

IRD removal:

Remove coolant hoses:

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remove support brackets (top and bottom of driveshaft output)

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remove bolts surrounding IRD

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take weight whilst undoing the last bolt and remove IRD unit from back of engine

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pull off little plastic cover to reveal torque convertor bolts behind. while youre there undo this little 8mm headed bolt

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this bolt head in the center of shot is the top one for the starter motor which needs removing

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bottom starter motor bolt and nut (13mm head 15mm nut)

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once removed you can see the flex plate/flywheel and torque convertor. turn crank until bolt appears in window (behind plastic cover as removed a couple of steps ago) and mark off TC and flywheel relative position for reference.

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remove all 4 torque convertor bolts

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bellhousing bolt time - 2 here:

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make note, the lower of these 2 is shorter than the other. all of the rest of the bolts are the same length.

one here - top right from gearbox end (leave this one in the last couple of threads as the "safety")

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one up here (top left from gearbox end)

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these 2 loose from earlier when the gearbox cooler was removed

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one final one bottom center

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THESE AUTO BOXES ARE HEAVY ~100KG+ you would be a pregnant goldfish to try and remove on your own

ensure torque convertor doesent fall off gearbox. keep mated as much as possible as re mating can produce an oppurtunity to lunch input seal or worse pump drive if not done correctly!!!

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  • 9 months later...

Hi Guys.

I'm kinda doing the reverse of this..

My Dad (79yrs of age) gave me his freebie, after my two nephews thought they could put another td4 engine under the bonnet - replacing the original TD4 with a broken crank.

long story short...

they are Not mechanics.

Vacuum hoses are all missing

the air con pump didnt go back on and the red wire is broken from the car (somewhere)

The engine bay is a mess.

Me... I'm an ex-mechanic (from the 90's) and still have my tools.

I haven't worked on a freebie before but I know there are parts missing, pipes incorrectly fitted, and god knows how long this will take to fix.

anyway... I need help.

hopefully.... a friendly East Midlands Colleague may be bored enough to pop by and point me in the right direction.

The Car... well. Dad gave it to me the day he was diagnosed with the Big "C" - so.... although I could buy one cheaper on eBay, I feel i should get it on the road to show him it will live again.

Anyone care to assist please ?? :-)

for starters..... I'm looking for a vaccuum diagram.

and...

what does this wire plug onto???

Thanks In Advance.... for Info... I'm 6mins of Junc 28 of the M1 Carpark - in Selston.

Cheers All.

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Vacuum-wise there are two solenoids it goes to - one is on the top n/s of the engine and controls the EGR valve, honestly I'd spend £25 on an EGR removal pipe and just blank it off.

fl_egr.jpg

The other (identical) solenoid is down the back of the engine o/s near the turbo controlling the boost / VNT actuator. The vac line to it runs across the top of the engine by the injectors, both mine and a mate's were rubbed through / split so it's worth checking it - 6mm push-fit nylon hose is peanuts and fits right on.

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