DAN82SED Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 After changing exhaust down pipe and replacing the rear crossmember i charged and refitted the battery and now it wont start The battery has been disconnected for a couple of weeks and I'm wondering if this might have messed up the immobiler I have power to lights, indicators and cigarette lighter but when I turn the key nothing happens The aftermarket immobiler is a meta 36t. There is power going to it because the light is flashing but it appears it is stopping it starting Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Have you knocked the wire off the starter solenoid when changing the downpipe? Do you get ign/warning lights on the dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN82SED Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 I don't think so. Felt around starter and everything seems to be in place. No warning lights on dash or relay clicks when key is turned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 When you say "it won't start" do you mean "it doesn't turn over", or "it turns over but does not fire" ?? If it won't turn over, have you perhaps disturbed the all-important engine-to-chassis earth lead? If it turns over but doesn't fire I'd be looking at things like the lift-pump [have the valves stuck?] and, depending on the FIP design, the wire to the stop-solenoid, and the stop-solenoid itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN82SED Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 It wont turn over. I put a multi meter on the ignition barrel and I've got 12.5v on the permanent live but no dash lights or glow plug light. I'll have to check the earth tomorrow now but thanks for idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN82SED Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 The earth strap wasn't looking too good so I've replaced it with a new one but still no joy. The electrician (not auto) at work recons it could be the ignition barrel itself Anyone has any other ideas or how to test the ignition I would be grateful. Starting to loose hair now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 There are 2 wires going to starter-motor: one really thick jobbie which is the permanent high-current live feed from the battery, and a thinner wire which comes from the ignition-switch - this thinner wire carries a current from the ignition-switch to the starter motor telling it to crank the engine. Disconnect this thinner wire from the motor. Then get a short length of wire and connect one end to the terminal on the motor where the thinner wire went. When you touch the other end of this wire to the big terminal on the motor where the battery-feed is connected, it should crank the engine. This will show you [a] that you have a working starter-motor and that you've got a good low-resistance path from the battery +ve terminal to the motor and also from the motor back to the -ve terminal of the battery via the earth-cabling. If thhe engine cranks like this but doesn't crank on the key then you've got either a defective starter-switch or the wire from the starter-switch to the startwer motor itself is open-circuit [which could be caused by the immobilizer]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN82SED Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Thanks tanuki Just tried that. The starter sounded like the soliniod was clicking but it didn't crank. The starter should be good as it is only a couple of months old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Thanks tanuki Just tried that. The starter sounded like the soliniod was clicking but it didn't crank. The starter should be good as it is only a couple of months old. Sounds like you have some sort of high resistance in the 'industrial strength' power feed from the battery to the starter-motor. I'd remove, vigorously clean, and re-attach the terminals on the battery as the next step. If that doesn't fix it I'd check whether the battery's healthy and fully-charged. Modern batteries can go from 'OK' to "totally-dead" in a few days . . ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN82SED Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Checked power to ignition and starter. Got 12v at both so I'm convinced it's the immobilisor so got an auto electrician coming round tomorrow to remove it. Need to know when to admit defeat Thanks for your advice Tanuki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN82SED Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Good news. Electrician removed immobiliser and she fired first time. £50 well spent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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