Simon_CSK Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I have just replaced my 96 HSE with a 2001 Vogue. The car drived faultlessly and drove home from Norwich on Sunday. 382 miles. What I have noticed is the air suspension from cold takes an absolute age to pump up. I could drive 5 miles before there is any movement. The car has 20" alloys fitted and the suspension has been pumped up which will be getting reset to standard and standard wheels going back on very shortly. I do not think this affects the top up rate so would appreciate thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Worn out air compressor, and there could also be air slow leaks allowing it to settle when left parked. Apparently the compressor should charge the air reservoir fully after 2 minutes. This guy on eBay seems to know his stuff on P38 air suspension. http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/symlise_automotive_ltd?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Worn out air compressor, and there could also be air slow leaks allowing it to settle when left parked. Apparently the compressor should charge the air reservoir fully after 2 minutes. This guy on eBay seems to know his stuff on P38 air suspension. http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/symlise_automotive_ltd?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Thanks Dunc Did wonder. I have got a couple of spares so I will try and change it tomorrow and see what happens. It doesn't take long to make the switch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 The air compressor being worn won't help, no. But I'd say you also have a leak, either in the valve block or in a line to the tank. Either way I'd also do the mod so it doesn't wake up and level automatically anymore, it really helps with keeping the EAS alive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 sorry to but in on the post, but could you give some details of the "wake up" mod for the EAS ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 There's a timer relay, on mine it's under the driver's seat, I guess in the UK it'll be under the passenger seat. Basically you change it so instead of getting a permanent live it gets an ignition switched live. You can find one of those at one of the many ECUs down there, I think the ABS has a switched live that has some amps to spare. For details, I think there's a proper writeup of it on RR.net somewhere. It'll also help you locate a leak, as only that bag will go down instead of the whole car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Link to rangerovers.net post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 The topic on RRnet is a rather crude and early solution, there are better ways: - easiest is to disconnert the PR wire (constant 12V) from the EAS timer and splice in a feed from the W wire (ignition 12V). This does mean you have to upgrade fuse 24 (5A to 10A) that also powers the ABS ECU - in a manual you can use the switched ignition feed that is available to power the autobox ECU to power the EAS timer (PR), instead of a permanent plus - add a relay to the PR feed wire (before the EAS timer) and switch the relay with a splice from the W wire to the EAS timer. That way everything stays factopry (fuses and such) Either way prevents the EAS ECU from waking up (because of the EAS timer) because there is no longer a permanent 12V feed, only an ignition switched. So the car will not self level without ignition on, i.e. overnight or such. Otherwise any small leak or even parking on uneven ground will have the EAS lower all the bags until the car is on the bump stops. Wich can take a while to pump back up again. One side-effect that I have noticed, both on my cars, on Elbekko's and with customers, is that sometimes the EAS forgets its last setting. So after starting it will go to a random setting, quite annoying if that happens to be access... We haven't found the cause for this, but it can be very strange. For example after a weekend of offroading I find mine wants to go to offroad again for several days afterwards, even when parking in normal or highway setting. After a while it returns to normal again. Regardless, I would recommend this mod to every P38a owner and offer it to all my customers. It prevents a lot of problems and makes it easier to identify and rectify problems (leaks) when they do occur. Filip PS: If the 20" wheels are fitted with the correct tyres (like 255/45R20), outer dimensions will be exactly the same as standard tyres/wheels, so no need to alter the EAS settings. I do agree it would be best to switch to standard sizes anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Dunc Spot on changed it over this morning and it lifted straight away. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 There's a timer relay, on mine it's under the driver's seat, I guess in the UK it'll be under the passenger seat. Basically you change it so instead of getting a permanent live it gets an ignition switched live. You can find one of those at one of the many ECUs down there, I think the ABS has a switched live that has some amps to spare. For details, I think there's a proper writeup of it on RR.net somewhere. It'll also help you locate a leak, as only that bag will go down instead of the whole car Elbekko I think you are right about a leak as the suspension drops overnight. I think for this it is more likely to be the airbags being perished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 i wish i'd known about this when i had my p38. you've probably just explained my battery drain. i knew it was a ecu waking up constantly draining my battery and i knew it wasn't the alarm ecu. i just never found out which one........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Dunc Spot on changed it over this morning and it lifted straight away. Thanks again. You are welcome. It's always good to get a positive outcome. i wish i'd known about this when i had my p38. you've probably just explained my battery drain. i knew it was a ecu waking up constantly draining my battery and i knew it wasn't the alarm ecu. i just never found out which one........ My RRC has the same battery drain.....I am hoping that it is the wake up on my EAS ECU.....I have 4 leaking airbags too. I just leave the battery disconnected for now. I will eventually get around to sorting the EAS...after the welding. From what I understand the system on the RRC was just developed a little further from the P38. I have also read on RangeRovers.net that the system is a modified Routemaster Bus system! So, it is a reliable system if serviced and understood correctly. Which on a car, because it was different at the time wasn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanis8472 Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Sorry to bring up an old post, but the easiest thing to do with the EAS timer relay is to replace it with a yellow one from the engine bay fuse box. To run diagnostics, just put the timer relay back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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