FridgeFreezer Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I have a diesel tank in the back of the 109 just for the Eberspacher. I filled it up when I fitted the heater, that was some years ago... A small jerry can will run one for ages. Buying 2nd hand is a bit risky, you have to make sure you get EVERYTHING - people often pull the heater & leave the controller, ECU if it's a separate one, and fuel pump behind on the vehicle. You also need to watch out for the water heaters from modern cars as it's possible some of them need CANbus or W-Bus comms to work - nothing that can't be solved but possibly more faff than you bargained for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Every Webasto Thermotop can run via a simple switch or Canbus. They are all the same and the ECU, heater and coolant pump is in the one unit. There are some rare ones that ship without the pump. You do want to make sure you have all the bits. Fuel pump, wiring harness, exhaust tubing...as they can be pricey separately. You can also pickup a PC interface to troubleshoot, check and clear codes, view history and program for very little coin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I have both in the 110 for various reasons, however you are avoiding the real problem. Like many Land Rovers the TD5 Was designed to run in lots of environments and therefore is 'overcooled' mainly because of its aerodynamics! I suspect your run to work is a quick one without much sitting in traffic? Because of the cold air flow cooling the engine/rad through the big flat hole at the front, it never gets a chance to heat up. The answer to this is simple, either sit in traffic or buy/make a radiator muff. You could go for the redneck sheet of card or something a bit better. I made one it costs less than £3.00 and is very effective at getting things warmer, and keeping them that way especially on longer, faster journeys. Jason. If you look at my truck thread you will see the heater and the muff, I moved my ECU to fit the air heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 There is zero need for a radiator muff if your thermostat is working properly, IME, which I suspect is a lot colder than yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Our works vehicles have fuel burning air heater eberspachers in the rear, all fitted with multi-programmable timers which also serve as fault code displays. They do a great job at heating the rear of my hi-top transit and can dry soaking waterproofs if left in the vehicle. It's a much more efficient way of heating the cab. My D3/4 and evoque all had water heating FBH, it would only cycle on at ambient temps less than 4degC, and although it helped speed the warming process it wasn't great. It was of an obvious benefit to the engine and emissions but not to the cab heater. My 200tdi gets up to normal operating temps a lot faster than I expected, if I were to fit auxiliary heating for cab comfort I'd go for an air type heater though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 There is zero need for a radiator muff if your thermostat is working properly, IME, which I suspect is a lot colder than yours. The TD5 runs very cool, stat is fine cutting down the air flow works a treat. I have only closed the flap in the Nordics. You don't need to block air flow just reduce it. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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