Kiwi_defender Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Defender Td5 110 five door. reg 2005 here in NZ. 196,000km Mostly road. Can anyone help me track down this noise. Its a chuf chuf chuf, a bit like a rub. I believe it is a new recent onset, Although i usually have music up fairly loud. It exists as others can hear it. Recently had both left wheels drop in to mud filled ditch with eventual loss of traction. Wasn't thrashed although did try to extract immediately using momentum without centre diff locked. Then forward backward changes of direction till bellied on diff heads. Sadly had to be towed out under power. Rate of noise is same or near prop shaft rotation rate. It increases decreases with speed. Seems to be present in all gears except 4th, The one to one ratio.? lay shaft. volume increase on acceleration and possibly more so on de-acceleration. or down shifting Doesn't disappear or change with tension on the park brake. Present in high and low ratios Centre diff locked or unlocked If vehicle is coasting is present if gears except 4th are selected but not if in neutral. increase in rate with higher gear. I have removed and driven vehicle with both front and back prop shafts removed, noise remains. i have removed overdrive plate and output splines appear in good condition. Oil levels are good, no evidence of oil leak/ plan is to change oils in gearbox and transfer box and check for metal bits. Has anyone had a similar thing or any other diagnostic process or suggestion? Thanks Jos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddychris300tdi Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I have the same noise coming from my new to me defender. Makes the noise in natural and all gears except fourth and when clutch is pressed. Have you had any luck finding the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 The input and output shafts of the R380, while being on the same plane are separate shafts, the one fitting inside the other. Drive is transmitted from the input shaft to the layshaft and then back to the output shaft, depending on which gear is selected. If, as you say the noise decreases in 4th, which is, as you correctly said, a direct 1:1 drive then the problem would seem to be either a worn tapered roller bearing on the main input/output shaft or your recent episode has worn or all but destroyed one of the many spacer shim washers located on the two shafts and ultimately associated with the tension on those two bearings to allow the tapered roller bearing to "drum" as they are no longer correctly located in the outer bearing case, that is there is excessive play. The noise will be less in 4th due to the reduced shaft speeds, if my assumptions are correct it should also "disappear" when the clutch is engaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddychris300tdi Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks boydie, it might be time for me take my gearbox apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 A word to the wise, if you're going to do this first read the R380 first manual and fabricate the holding frame or get one made for you, you will curse and swear with the disassembly and reassembly of the box if you don't. When I rebuilt my box I attempted to do it on the bench, after three attempts I gave it away as I don't have six sets of arms each with fingers each having a six pack of muscles on them, I paid AUD$250.00 to have the frame fabricated and then it took me under 3 hours to carry out the re-assembly without any problems. If you have any mates who have R380's see if they would be interested in chipping in and become joint owners, one day they are going to need to use it. You will need access to a hydraulic press, don't worry about the many "special tools" listed by LR as these can be compensated for with using old bearing inners/outers or bits of steel pipe (sockets are good) that you may have sitting around. A set of bearing pullers (3 leg and 2 leg) are also required along with a set of drifts to knock out some of the taper bearing outer cones. The rear oil seal sleave on the output shaft is best removed by gently applying heat from a blow torch, you can then pull it off with multi-grips, it's easier than using the LR special puller, replace the new one in the same way, heat it up in an oil bath and with multi-grips slip it on and if its not fully located tap it gently with a inner bearing race if needed to locate it properly into place . ONLY use Timken bearings and LR oil seals. Buy a GENUINE gasket set and fit them where stated - the gaskets are part and parcel of the shimming so do not apply sealant to them. The ferro-asbestos oil pump seal is a doosie, to fit it and to get it to seal correctly, again, and I cannot stress this enough ONLY use a genuine LR part, do not use a Bripart component in my limited (as in above) experience they don't fit correctly. Take great care to comply with the shimming/tolerance gaps, they are essential. The LR overhaul kit will include new syncro's so fit them and when you dismantle the box take extreme care to lay the gears out in the exact order that they come off the three shafts. I found the best method is to break open a couple of cardboard boxes and then lay the parts out neatly in the order they come off the shafts, for example 1;2;3;4 gears have double syncro's 5th and reverse have a single syncro, mess them up and you will tear your hair out trying to figure what one is what. While he box is out and reassembled check that you have full selection of all the gears and that the reverse switch operates, I missed this simple test and once my box was reinstalled had to drop the gearbox cross member to fix the problem by removing the alloy washer to get it to close circuit. If you have a budget for it while you're playing gearboxes have the flywheel skimmed and fit a new clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing, you don't want to be pulling it out again anytime in the near future. If you have a problem let me know and you can give me a call, NZ to AUS isn't overly expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 One further word with that output shaft oil sleave -- DONT overheat it during re-assembly, heat it in an oil bath but NOT too hot as it has to expanded enough to slide over the shaft but INTO the oil seal, too hot and you will damage the oil seal lip. I got over this by using some 0.0001 shim plate and cut to size as a sleave over the sleave and inside the oil seal, pressed the hot sleave into position and then when it was cooled down pulled the shim out GENTLY to avoid damage to the lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Just a thought but while you have the box out, give the transfer box a check over, ensure that the input gear is cross-drilled, if not drill it, there are several blurbs on this site as to how to do it, also check that the urine weak brass shim washers in the centre differential haven't dissipated into the lubrication oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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