Souster Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 It's not the vacuum pump Personally I wouldn't bother at all chasing the problem If I don't the discs are going to fail MOT everytime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 It's not an MOT fail unless the corrosion is considered to "seriously affect strength" of the disc If the tester were to fail my 90 for this issues I would appeal to the DVSA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 It's not an MOT fail unless the corrosion is considered to "seriously affect strength" of the disc That's true. But them not working still isn't right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 If they produce enough force on the rollers, then they kind of are working right.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hl1977 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 My discs are scored to hell as well, though fairly rust free. I find the inboard pads wear away after only a few months (5,000 miles or so) in the winter, and the resulting metal-on-metal is what had knackered my discs. New ones are on the cards, but to me this means the inner pads have plenty of pressure on them to wear out first - even though in my case it is accelerated by the wet gravel roads and the lack of disc shields. image.jpg From the image is visible, that you have removed the mud shields. I did the same and ended up changing inner brake pads at 6000-7000 km, while outer were fine. After re-installing mud shields the wear became more-less even and pads are still good after 10000+ km Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 From the image is visible, that you have removed the mud shields. I did the same and ended up changing inner brake pads at 6000-7000 km, while outer were fine. After re-installing mud shields the wear became more-less even and pads are still good after 10000+ km Yep, that's the conclusion I have come to as well. A new set of shields for the rest brakes are on the list of parts to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Are front mud shields needed too then, I left mine off............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Are front mud shields needed too then, I left mine off............. Mine aren't on the front or the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 My front brakes have no shields on either (for ease of cleaning - though for 'normal' non-extreme off road use like mine sees I'm not sure how significant the benefit is) and last plenty long enough, though the inboard pads do still wear a little faster. Front pads don't see the same amount of spray/mud/dirt that rears do when driving on wet unsealed roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Oooops I missed that, the shields are there for a purpose - to prevent dirt and crud from getting onto and building up inside the disc, I know that they aren't perfect but far better than nothing at all - check out any Camel Trophy Disco or Defender, they have them fitted for that good reason - and I'll warrant that I drive through and on far worse tracks that you do and mine are still fitted, why did you remove them ?? access to any brake component isn't improved in any substantial way and it's not as if they weigh much so replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 I was told to removed them as they just cause problems with scraping etc. The fronts have no disc shields fitted and they look perfect. I don't drive dirty roads consistent enough to cause any problems. It could be why the inside of the discs is a bit more rusty compared to the outside though. I'm hoping that no disc gaurds isn't the reason why the discs look like they do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 When I used to do more serious off roading I found that stones and the like would get jammed between the shield and the disc, and that it was easier to clean stuff after the event with the shields removed. Since pad wear was adversely affected by the muddy conditions anyway the disadvantages of removing the shields were not relevant. I probably wouldn't have taken them off without said heavier use, and indeed I am going to put the rear ones back on as above. The lack of shields won't affect how the pads work on the disc, though as above they affect lifespan negatively - particuarly on the rear axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 When I used to do more serious off roading I found that stones and the like would get jammed between the shield and the disc, and that it was easier to clean stuff after the event with the shields removed. Since pad wear was adversely affected by the muddy conditions anyway the disadvantages of removing the shields were not relevant. I probably wouldn't have taken them off without said heavier use, and indeed I am going to put the rear ones back on as above. The lack of shields won't affect how the pads work on the disc, though as above they affect lifespan negatively - particuarly on the rear axle. Do you think it has negatively affected the discs in terms of corrosion or just wear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Just pad wear I would have thought, as they shouldn't corrode much if used often due to the cleaning effect of the pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Can you put the fronts on just like that? I can't remember from my arm chair whether they are easily put back on or whether more is involved. Funny how advice goes in waves, one year leave them off, the next they are essential. I might put mine back on as I am not an extremist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 I've found the advise in the past was saying to remove them. Now its yo refit them too How long would you say it takes to start to damage a set of discs from corrosion? Providing the calipers are good. 2 or 3 weeks being exposed to the elements wouldn't cause sustainable pitting and corrosion would it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 My Disco was sitting around for the better part of 6months without turning a wheel and the discs stayed mint with minimal surface rust, then again, I was not cheap and bought top spec discs and pads when I refurbed the brakes, could be that cheap parts use lower grade materials that are prone to corrosion more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_90 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I personally think it has a lot to do with the quality of the brake discs. I have some good quality discs and pads on my challenge 90 and it never does more than 500miles a year, in wet dirty unloved environment and the discs are ok. They do build up surfce corrosion after it's been standing for a month but it does clean off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Does mintex qualify as quality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Does mintex qualify as quality? Thanks alot guys that's very helpful. Thank you for clarifying how long the vehicles can sit for without any adverse affects to the discs. I would also like to know what you guys think of mintex. Because the discs don't seem great, they are corroding something terrible. Then again I spose it's not being cleared off the rears properly. trw discs on the front are perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Mine were mintex/lockheed and had the corrosion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 I think once the pressure relief valve is replaced I will stick a better quality set of discs on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 The rears will always get more crud on them than the front simply because the fronts throw it back to the rear of the car. Not having them will affect the wear rate of the disc pads although I wouldn't have thought it would adversely cause the rears to corrode, other than build up in the dished centre. When I replaced my discs I purchased locally made Australian units, identical to the standard discs, vented at the front, solids at the rear. In many instances it would be foolish to expect LR or any vehicle manufacturer to fit premium products on a normal standard car (and I'm not including Ferrari, Aston Martin et.al in this generalisation) they will fit products that will meet their design criteria and no more, for example the standard cylinder head LR valve caps are rubbish. Shop around, talk to other people on this site and find out what are the best quality discs available in the UK and then, if they are within your price range buy them. Stick with the standard design, slotted and cross drilled discs on a Land Rover Defender or Discovery are simply are a waste of money -- unless you are thinking of driving at well over 160mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have fitted Mintex discs to a whole variety of vehicles, and have never had issues with them. I have also replaced discs on L/R's with and without the shields and would say there is no noticeable difference. People tend to remove them to aid cleaning after off-road use, and if you get a stone stuck between the disc and shield, that annoying squealing continues until you get underneath and get it out. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Thank you Les and boydie. That's very helpful regarding the discs, I'm aware now that I haven't purchased an inferior brand and it's not the discs that are the issue. Nor is it the fact the disc guards removed, despite the discs being more exposed to the elements. If the brakes were working correctly this wouldn't be an issue as the surface rust would just be removed. Except it's just getting worse and worse. The fronts have disc gaurds removed and look perfect. Mintex are very reasonably priced, and are part of the TMDFRICTION group which is quite a large company it seems. Who supply to many motor factors. Can't be that bad. Pagid I believe are also the same company. Mintex are good then, any other recommendations? I've got a new PRV and flexi hose on order. Hopefully to get to the bottom of this. Thankyou all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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