bmhor Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I've just "aquired" an ex Discovery TD5 engine and manual gearbox and I'm planning a 90 build! My question is, what can I do away with from the standard TD5 installation as there's just way too much "stuff" hanging off the engine for a clean install. I have Rovacom so can deal with ECU issues. Any help or suggestions are most welcome (before anyone else says it, I've already been told not to go there....LOL) Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Dont go there....... Seriously though, all that "stuff" serves a purpose and is needed. Its not even as if you can relocate much into the seatbox as its already pretty busy in there on a td5.. Maybe someone more up to speed on td5's specifically will help. But my question is ......why? I understand a clean "minimalist" engine bay on a hot rod build, but a defner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 You need an ECU. You need a TD5 2-stage electric fuel-pump and associated filters/air-separators. There are ways to disable the intercommunication between the ECU and the immobiliser - but why? The immobiliser/alarm's got a Thatcham-rating and is probably easier to implement than most equivalent-standard but non-Thatcham-rated aftermarket security systems. (keep your insurers happy!). You don't need the EGR solenoids or the vacuum-tappings into the line from the vacuum-pump to the brake servo. Truth is, a TD5's electronics are really quite a simple setup compared with most post-2000 vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmhor Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 You need an ECU. You need a TD5 2-stage electric fuel-pump and associated filters/air-separators. There are ways to disable the intercommunication between the ECU and the immobiliser - but why? The immobiliser/alarm's got a Thatcham-rating and is probably easier to implement than most equivalent-standard but non-Thatcham-rated aftermarket security systems. (keep your insurers happy!). You don't need the EGR solenoids or the vacuum-tappings into the line from the vacuum-pump to the brake servo. Truth is, a TD5's electronics are really quite a simple setup compared with most post-2000 vehicles. As I don't have the alarm anyway, it's non requirement is preferable and i don't have an issue with insurance here!! So how do I get rid of it? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 easy, phone me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmhor Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 easy, phone me You say the sweetest things........LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 for starters what anciliaries and cricuits are on there in the first place, im struggling to visualise what as i havent worked on many Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmhor Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 for starters what anciliaries and cricuits are on there in the first place, im struggling to visualise what as i havent worked on many Lots of vacum plumbing on the O/S for the EGR, fuel cooler, cat etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 de cat, knock the EGR off and plumb the fuel cooler in from scratch, then junk all of the vacuum hoses (apart from the servo one ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmhor Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 de cat, knock the EGR off and plumb the fuel cooler in from scratch, then junk all of the vacuum hoses (apart from the servo one ) That seems to be the general concensius, plus remove the center silencer... Thanks for the thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I put a drawing in the cad section if you want to replace the oil cooler housing with a take off plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonovice Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Bin it and get a 200tdi. Not much on them. I'll do you a swap if you like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Lol. Are you bothered by the clutter on the td5 neo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 i wouldnt be haha. some of the freshers in our off road club have just pulled a td5 out of the club truck because they couldnt get it to run... i showed them how to check for imjector pulse which there wasnt any, then showed them a circuit diagram and told them to do some testing, came back amd they had pulled it out to replace it. I obviously facepalmed at this point as it obviously wasnt the engine at fault. still, told them i would happily take the "buggered" engine. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonovice Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Lol. Are you bothered by the clutter on the td5 neo? The Td5s are positively sparse compared to the mass of plastic and gubbins under a Puma bonnet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 @disco mikey would that be the silver tomcat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 For the fuel system you can use a standard EFi type fuel pump and bin the complicated two stage pump and it's associated pipework and filter housing. I use an external pump on mine with an inline pre-filter and a 300TDi fuel filter housing between the pump and regulator. Less pipework and a more reliable pump also makes using a fabricated fuel tank much easier as all you need is a feed pipe and return. If it's for serious off road work then probably a good idea to use a swirl pot setup though, again I'd use an external low pressure pump to feed the swirl pot and feed the high pressure pump from that. For field repair consider adding provision to bypass the swirl pot to allow the high pressure pump to pull directly from the tank, that way if the low pressure pump dies you can work around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 @disco mikey would that be the silver tomcat? yeah haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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