Chiraagshah Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hi All, Haven't been here for a while but good to see the banter is just as good as ever! And all the helpful hints too! So my question - We used to run a 1972 RR Classic on Mog Axles for the Kenyan Rhino Charge but are now "upgrading" (?) to a 110 Chassis - the intention being to build a space frame/buggy type charger that has the space to carry 5 pax and yet is able to still tackle the terrain.On the Classic we had X-Arms and X Joints which did very well apart from once when we managed to bugger one of the X-Joints on an extreme articulation maneuver (https://www.facebook.com/pages/DeRan...33224110074012) So out looking for recommendations - Are the X-Arms still the bees knees or is there something else out there that will allow the flex/articulation needed (we are looking at a King Coilover Suspension setup too).Any experience of Johnny Jointed Arms like the ones from Adrenalin 4x4? Many thanks! C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 You looked at the Gigglepin arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 The only thing I can say about johnny-joints is that anyone looking at giving a big off roader a good kicking, is using a re-buildable spherical joint with a good seal. And they look to fit the 'asks', but I don't know how you size them? The GP ones look expensive at first, but the brackets, joints and arms probably make £450 a reasonable buy? You could spend a good while nobbin' around making the chassis mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar03 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 gigglepin rear arms are what you want as others have said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiraagshah Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks Guys, Only concern we had with the Gigglepin ones is that because we need to go for the new mounts, if we were to break one along the way, then the only replacement would be another GP arm and that costs an arm and a leg (no pun intended). Also, because the arm is longer, do they not move the pivot point forward which apparently results in the diff nose tilting away from the gearbox on droop potentially putting more strain on the prop? The Adrenaline 4x4s as I understand it bolt straight onto the existing chassis mounts and are std length which is a plus. We do currently have a pair of X-Eng Arms but I am told that the Johnny Joint is better? Ta again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I'd have thought the adrenaline ones would be worse, as being on the standard mounts the arm will be shorter and the axle will walk more under the car during extreme droop travel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 The GP ones are adjustable in length, so you can kind-of set your pinion angle dependant on your lift. With them being longer, and the a-frame above being the same length, you are right, it will make the pinion angle move down as the suspension droops, but you can limit that with a central check-strap or it may not be an issue either way! If you want to go nuts, then move the a-frame crossmember forward and fit one of the P&P extended a-frames or D4x4 extended a-frame bracket, but I suspect this may be a bit much for you In fact, for that amount of bother you could quite happily build your own suspension system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackmac Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks Guys, Only concern we had with the Gigglepin ones is that because we need to go for the new mounts, if we were to break one along the way, then the only replacement would be another GP arm and that costs an arm and a leg (no pun intended). Also, because the arm is longer, do they not move the pivot point forward which apparently results in the diff nose tilting away from the gearbox on droop potentially putting more strain on the prop? The Adrenaline 4x4s as I understand it bolt straight onto the existing chassis mounts and are std length which is a plus. We do currently have a pair of X-Eng Arms but I am told that the Johnny Joint is better? Ta again! I've seen quite a few photos of people showing off their articulation with standard length jonny jointed arms. The amount of rear steer they are getting from axle walking under the car is ridiculous, longer arms help solve this. Actually saw a video a while back of a chap showing off his flex, gave it a bit of right foot on full articulation and the stupid amount of rear steer almost made him roll. Apparently doesn't matter 'cause it 'looks cool' innit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 If you have the ability to fit mogs to a LR, then make a set of arms similar to the GP. Use thicker steel though as they bend. Johnny joints are easy to get. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiraagshah Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thanks guys - super helpful. I will post up pics of the build as we go along - Most likely going to go for the GP Arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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