mick the digger! Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Another vote for rustoleum combicolour I've sprayed all sorts with it, even rollered it onto garage in a camper with hardboard covered walls got a great finish on it with a roller and it's hard wearing an easy to wipe clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I ought to go and luck at the back of Kettle's chassis...I did that with POR15 when the tub was off after our accident 3 years ago How was it looking EJ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 umm...still havent looked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Actually i cant say that i blame you. Weather has been horrific lately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integerspin Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I was given a tin of Rustoleum, the bloke bought it from either Parker Steel or Buck and Hickman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 ..... and ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integerspin Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 ..... and ? Well I painted a raro chassis and axleswith it and 2 years or so later, when I flogged it, they still looked pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Well I went for the combicolour, which came today. It comes in all RAL colours and seems widely regarded - so I'll give it a go. What do folk who use it use to thin it and clean their brushes ? The Rustoleum thinners product has some xylene in it and a load of things I don't have an idea about ..... But the VW guys (who use it a lot) just use white spirit ? http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downloads/tech/paintfor%A350.pdf http://www.rustoleumdirect.co.uk/hs/rustoleum/Rustoleum%207301%20CombiColor%20Thinner.pdf Any pointers would be welcomed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Ok - White Spirit works to clean the brushes ...... .....and the paint is lovely. Really easy to work with - with good prep and some care you could get an excellent finish with it. It's got that consistency where you can put it on quite thinly and the brush marks still fall out of it. Reminds me of watching my Dad coach paint classic bikes - except he could really do it. I'm going to do one more coat - and then see how it gets on with wear and tear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick the digger! Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I always just use standard tinners, I'm assuming if tinned with white spirt it would take longer to go of as it doesn't evaporate as fast as tinners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wave Mountain Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 On 10/01/2015 at 0:10 AM, Hybrid_From_Hell said: Por doesn't like clean metal...doesn't lie any other paint or finish...it peels off....but if you have rusty surface **** to a blanket But won't the rust just bubble away underneath the POR 15 until it breaks through. Hammerite used to sell well because it was advertised to be painted straight over rust, we all bought it (in more ways than one !) and the rust bubbled up and through the paint. My chassis is off for blasting any day now and i am still not sure what to paint it with (Not galvanising - see my earlier post about NOT galvanising a chassis with internal waxoyl). QUESTION : Will POR15 stick to a bare metal, sandblasted surface (Frost video shows a prep-wash first) ? It seems nobody is keen on painting POR15 over any primer or base coat ? What about Rustbusters Epoxy-Mastic 121 ? Got a good vote from Classics Monthly Magazine ?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 My vote would be for the POR15... I did my chassis with it and its had lots of knocks in the workshop with zero damage. Friends 90 and 130 chassis are holding up well too. On 08/01/2015 at 9:08 PM, need4speed said: POR15 every day of the week. Tough as nails. Cures even tougher in cold, damp conditions. Seriously the stuff is bulletproof. DO NOT get any on your skin. It will be with you for weeks.... Echo that I had it on my legs for about 6 weeks afterwards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Warned ya.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 16 hours ago, landroversforever said: My vote would be for the POR15... I did my chassis with it and its had lots of knocks in the workshop with zero damage. Friends 90 and 130 chassis are holding up well too. Echo that I had it on my legs for about 6 weeks afterwards Did you use anything as a primer beforehand? Got some axles that need a rebuild shortly and thinking of POR 15 or Buzzweld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Use Buzzweld CIO instead 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 2 hours ago, Boris113 said: Did you use anything as a primer beforehand? Got some axles that need a rebuild shortly and thinking of POR 15 or Buzzweld It was a fresh galvanised chassis so it was Twashed all over, then sprayed with the POR15 metal prep and then brushed straight on. Two coats, with time between for it to be dry to the touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 I think the buzzweld products are just the corroless paints renamed. So if you want the chassis in different colours you can source corroless RF16 in any RAL colour. RCP = Corroless S primer CIO = RF16 I also noticed that corroless recommends a primer for RF16, so it's interesting to see that buzzweld says it's a one time application. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 24 minutes ago, SteveG said: I think the buzzweld products are just the corroless paints renamed. Agreed, and marketed in a more retail friendly way. Corroless looks like the kind of business that just supplies industrial users. I've used CIO, and I like it. It also stays on your skin for days ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 They were - that's how the business started but they are now selling a range of stuff and developing new. The guy that runs Buzzweld is a sound bloke and worth discussing stuff with - he will always take the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Not knocking him/company Dave, I was just pointing out that if you want it in colours other than black it's available. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Hi Steve, wasn't implying you were! Craig Jones who runs the company is a hell of a nice guy; and very helpful. His dad has worked in the coatings industry for 40 odd years and he helps out as consultant. It's a small business but they want to expand, so if there is an area they don't cover, or a product that they don't sell, it's worth ringing up for a chat I would also suggest contacting Andrews Coatings in Wolverhampton for Rustoleum and other similar products - they are very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 I'm a firm believer in POR15 especially for chassis work A couple of things that stand out and also reasons why people have bad results You HAVE to do the three step process, Marine Clean, Metal Ready and then the POR15, this is the reason most fail they think its a paint and miss the chemical reaction required from the Metal Ready As stated it REQUIRES rust for the phosphoric acid in the metal ready to chemically convert into a keying agent for the paint, you remove the rust it wont work lol It doesn't work over painted surfaces! they have a special keying primer paint that you have to use and last I read even in there prep sheets they warned it will not perform to its abilities this way The main reason it fails is user error lol they don't read the spec sheets and follow, that said there is one other reason POR15 can fail and that is if it is applied when there is too much moisture in the air, it can cause the paint to dry to fast and not bond to the surface Now why it rocks and also why I'm letting my camper chassis rust so I can use this to its best ..... Normal paints use a spirit as a carrier agent something that has to evaporate for the paint to dry this leaves microscopic pores in the paint surface this very slowly allows water in (why you want more than one layer of paint) and why normal paint will soften on exposure to water. Normal paints also need a mechanical key to hold too (your sanding marks) POR15 on the other hand is a chemical reaction on exposure to the moisture in air (why you can't keep the stuff after you have opened the can.... will turn hard) so when the finished painted surface is wet it doesn't soften like normal paint.. so is alot tougher and chip resistant when under a truck It also has a chemical bonding process to the converted rust from the metal ready that holds onto the metal better than normal paint (Utube it, there are plenty of clips painted bits of steel being bent and paint not lifting) Yrs ago I painted up an axle on one of my trucks to compare POR15, Chassis Black (generic commercial truck chassis paint) Hammerite and underseal over normal enamel After one run where we bush bashed a couple of old tracks that were overgrown with Toi toi and tussic grass (up to a meter high dense fiberous grass) the only band not showing wear other than rub marks.... was the POR15, the underseal was gone from the base and front of the axle and enamel was worn to the point the steel was showing through, the chassis paint was better but the leading edge was showing metal, the Hammerite had chipped mainly on its edges but held up Oh and somebody mentioned the rust blowing out under the POR15.... I think the reason this doesn't happen is the curing process uses the moisture in the rust to cure the paint, i've painted old agricultural equipment with it over top of fingernail sized scale rust 10yrs later no rust had come through.... the POR15 had turned grey lol caused by sunlight and they warn repeatedly in the spec sheets about this when exposed to direct sunlight it needs to be coated over with another product 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wave Mountain Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 De Ranged, thank you for your post, which has arrived just in time. After much reading AND discussion with paint supplier in UK (Frosts) i came to the conclusion that if i had my chassis and all suspension parts sand blasted and made an effort to keep them rust free before i painted them, then this would be the best result. Frosts, who i do think know their stuff, said freshly sand blasted items would be ideal for painting with POR15 direct to metal so long as no post blasting primer or such like was applied. From your post i believe you are saying that even if it is freshly blasted, then it might be favourable to let it rust over slightly AND use the 'Metal Ready' prep coat ? (i don't think we have the Marine Clean here. I'll have to check). You also think this is essential, yes ? even with freshly blasted items ? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 I'm sure frosts stock the marine clean. As I was going over galv and therefore Twash I didn't use the marine clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Given that as you say POR15 can't go over paint, I can't see how it can be recommended for any uses other than where you fully strip to bare metal or have a replacement chassis. So for most people it's not really an option to strip everything back, so there's absolutely no paint left. Personally for the chassis, I prefer a coat of dinitrol 3125, then a couple of coats of 4941. Hardens well after a couple of weeks of gassing out, and is easily touched up with a spray can of 4941 for any off road knocks. For areas that need painting first then the epoxy's from bilt hamber/rustbuster (Jotun) or a chassis paint like buzzweld' ones are very good, and if overcoated with dinitrol it doesn't matter about needing 'Uber' levels of longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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