chris2010 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Running radiator to rear of truck, What type pipe work is commonly used for running under the truck to the rear radiator ? Rubber , hard plastic /gas water pipe ? Steel . Copper ? Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 I used rubber, but other people have used steel or stainless steel or a mixture of steel/stainless and rubber, all depends if you want to DIY and have a good pipe bender.I went higher up and there is not really a straight route, some people have gone lower, but the pipes can then be slightly lower than the chassis rail but you get a straight route and can use more metal piping. I found using large cable cleats good for holding the pipes Plastic would be too likely to crack is used lower down and hit a rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothy Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Thick Hydraulic hose, bomb proof and you can bend it and hit it with an hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris2010 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 can some one find me a link for the right sort of stuff to use. rubber flexible pipe would be easier, more workable What internal diameter are you running ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 38mm exhaust pipe is what I used and I would go that route again. You can buy weld-in bends, but I used 45 and 90 silicon hoses. I wouldn't use rubber, as metal pipes give you free cooling, especially when you have 4m of the stuff! If you apply some heat you can put some slight bends in thin wall metal pipe. You can't use the chassis for coolant pipes, but you could use thick walled tube and weld it on with substancial brackets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 38mm internal diameter EDPM Rubber http://www.hoseworld.com/acatalog/HIGH_TEMP_HEAVY_DUTY_RUBBER_WATER_DELIVERY_HOSE.html I Spoke to them to find a suitable rubber hose and they suggested this and said the quoted max temp of 100C was at max pressure of 15Bar not at the pressure a car rad works at and it had a high temp rating at lower pressure.This has similar spec to Hydraulic hose without the solvent(oil) capability but then it is a 1/3 of the price of Hydraulic hose of similar specEDPM is what normal Rad hoses are made of and this is beefier than that.I do agree the metal would radiate more heat, but this still radiates a lot of heat just like your normal rad hoses also get hot and there is a lot more of it than in a normal rad setup so you still get more free cooling than a front mounted rad.I did also look at using silicon hose but I could only really find a max of 1m lengths, but this EDPM can come in up to 60m lengths (I used 6m) plus some silicon bends with metal joiners but the route my pipes using metal would mean a lot more joins or a lot of bending and fiddling to route.While this is flexible it cannot do sharp bends, about the sharpest bend I did is a 90 in the space between chassis rails.I also used Size 20 Cable cleats as mounting http://www.fastlec.co.uk/cable-cleat-size-20-swa-armoured-cables And don't think of using your tubular spaceframe/rollcage as piping as well, as it won't meet competition regs if you do.I also think the size depends on your engine, mine was a V8 some diesels use 34mm ID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Thick Hydraulic hose, bomb proof and you can bend it and hit it with an hammer.Same as, it gives good smooth bends to avoid air locks but not so good for right angles?Losing heat in the pipe work may not be good, making surrounding items hot or could over cool? Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Losing heat is good. You are unlikely to overcool, because the water pump has to work harder and that's hindering cooling. It has to get more water moving every time you rev up. It could get real hot in the cab? Depends on your runs, and your insulation. Or if like me you have no windows. I have made my floor duct so it can let its air get sucked into the rad. Cheap tricks like that make all the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 If there is a larger amount of static/slow moving water to change speed when the revs rise is there a risk of cavitation on the pump? I don't know about this but a past post on cavitation in V8 engines showed scary amounts of block damage? Marc PS I run my V8 S1 without door tops so exhaust heat is also good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I can't see why, as the water pushes water into the block, with the rad being the biggest resistance. But there are all sorts of cavitation. I've only seen pump and liner cavitation. 4-8 litre diesels in the 70-80's loved a bit of liner damage as they were too close together. And my V8water pump is a right chewed up nacker. I believe both are aided by raw water. But the real 'ideal' has to be the electric pump. It sorts it all out for all engines and is mint for rear rads with its flow and fan control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 If like me with no doors or heater matrix then the heat from the pipes is acceptable, but heat loss from the pipes was not part of the design criteria. If I had to depend on the heat loss from the pipes to keep the engine cool then it meant that the radiator/fan design was wrong (with rubber pipes, one of the 2 electric fans barely comes on) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris2010 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Think I will leave this mod for another week, Without going through cab looks a pain in the arse so , will wait until it's required. Thanks for all your help guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 No worries, it's a hell of job to do cutting holes in this and avoiding that. At least you can lay in the pipes and all that before committing to removing the rad from the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exmoor4x4 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I'm just putting my radiator in the back and am using a combination of aluminium pipe and silicone hose for bends! Still not sure if I'm going to run it inside the can and then fabricate a tunnel to cover it or go underneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Probably easier above, because you are already having to go over the outrigger? That's what decided me anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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