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Superwinch 525


Paul Humphreys

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You wouldn’t see leaking seals as they are internal ……it would just allow oil down the wrong port………… but I don’t think that is the problem.

Both pressure AND flow are required to make the winch work properly. You have ascertained that the pressure is OK, but you need to do the same for the flow.

If the flow seems OK , then its time to investigate the winch ………. The drum turns OK so it looks more like the winch motor…….. however, they are quite bomb proof and are normally very, very reliable.

If would have been good if the fitter had plumbed the pressure gauge in line with the winch………. that would have given a better picture.

Jim’s synopsis is about spot on from the info we have to hand. It could be something oddball like the pump not producing much flow but producing the pressure OK …….. but this is unlikely.

Its probably going to be cheaper to get the winch repaired than to go electric.

Ian

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Ok

Have done some pics

1st is of an H14W spool block, this should be very similar to yours, this particular one has been modified so the pipes come out of the top of the unit, yours should come out of the bottom, this is done by rotating the control valves themselves. This is a double unit, have you a double or single block ?. If double have you ensured the second valve (on / off rather than the winch which is on / off / on ) IS OFF ?

As such like this (PRV)

Then a close up of the unit itself.

As you can see there is a cover over the front (the first nut) undo this then you'll see a bolt or allen keyed head that can beadjusted, you have to unlock the 2nd nut in - lock nut, and adjust - from memory in increases pressure and out decreases, I would suggest you count how many turns to undo, then wind in fully and count again, for 2000 - 2500 it will be nearly fully in ?

As to the 2500 psi on a pipe blanked off, apart from being rather dangerous, WHICH pipe did you blank off and attach guage to ?

Lastly the plumbing :

Big Pipe, from Tank into PTO Pump

Smaller pipe from PTO pump (press out) to spool block, from spool block (often opp side to the PTO in) is return to tank. Then you should have 2x more pipes from spool block - 1 to winch and 1 return.

You may have a single even smaller pipe running up to a controller connected to the throttle but you can forget this.

Have you also check the oil level, and ensured you have the correct grade of oil in (EP32 Hyd oil)

Have a lookie at the avove and then post back

Nige

Spool block looks nothing like that, it looks like the one Les had for sale that I posted in the start of this thread. I will go and count the pipes in the spool block 5, 4 on the face and 1 on the top. 4 are the same size and one smaller, return/bypass from thr motor by the size if it.

Yes it has the right oil in as I put 5Ls in after the testing as some was taken out.

Paul

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I have spoken to HFH and got something to try.

But I also got this email from Tony at Superwinch

The following is my musings on your e-mail:

Hydraulic pumps produce flow, the bit on the end of the hose demands pressure!, (winch motor, rams etc).

The 525 winch kit supplied for Land Rover vehicles was supplied with a pump that was rated at: 32 l/min nominal, at 1400 rpm, usually run in top gear.

this pump would produce upto 2600 psi when required.

If your system is giving 2500 psi at the motor but the winch is not pulling it would point to a problem either with the winch or the hydraulic motor,

mounted on the chassis behind No 2 cross member.

I have included a pdf copy of the early fitting instructions, these should be of use to you!

If you need any other information or details, please do not hesitate to contact me,

Kindest Regards,

Tony

So I now know what the flow rate should be. Time to do some more digging.

Paul

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