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Air Filter Housing - How Did you Do Yours?


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This is something I suspect a lot of you had to think through for your builds, so I'm posting separately from my thread as it has more general relevance.

I have the V8 Factory air cleaner (ERC8505) and note that on Nige's site, it suggests this is a good choice - however, I am looking to see how others have mounted this type (or others, it may still be relevant).

This is the cleaner, to be clear:


Here it is in my old, mint condition engine bay (ignore red arrows):


So, routing the pipework as above (but on the 4.0 with MS), the intake is directly behind the plenum and would have no room for any pipework for a snorkel. Additionally, the outlet is on the other side from the intake on the plenum, meaning the pipe would have to be routed up and over the engine with four 90 degree bends- not sure that would be so great for airflow.

Last issue: the mounts for the airbox don't corespond to any bolts on the engine, so short of fabricating something or getting creative with cable ties in a not-exactly-factory looking way, I'm curious to see how others have done it.

It can't just be turned upside down either, as this places the bottom drain/valve against the bulkhead and the intake then sits very low and almost touching the engine.

I can take pictures of it mocked up on the MS engine if needed for clarity.

So, what have you lot done?

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I can't get it to show up, Photo bucket and IPad obviously hate each other. Anyhoo, it is two citron filters in an ally can. I used a cnc punch press for my flanges, but doing by hand only needs good marking out. When you are done you have exactly what you need, as opposed to something that kind of annoys you because it doesn't fit the hole :)

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Right, I'm not going to try edit again. Every time I do it gets worse :)

So it is mark2, where mark one had a tractor filter in it. Building your own air filter seems a bit excessive, but like I say, you get somthing that does nicely. Unless the OE option is very smart?

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I have a Defender 200TDi filter vertically under the wing where the heater / inner wing would be. Hacked about to join to snorkel.

I think that's probably a common solution so perhaps explains a lack of replies in fitting a V8 air filter to a V8 engine...

Nonetheless, I need a solution. I'm going to mock some brackets up and see what fits: I have this filter so that's what I'm going to use.

Idris, that looks like it works at least, but not really suitable for a standard height bonnet. The limitations I have set is that it must look fairly factory (that is to say, not held together by duct tape and wishful thinking) and not need bodywork modifications in any way.

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Depending upon your viewpoint but may be the easiest solution

The LS (gm performance parts) uses a K&N as standard for their aftermarket kit 9" long 4" connection cone shaped 6" od about £45 as a single filter

you could probably roll a bit of plate weld some flanges and spigots on the can and it would be a simple filter canister for connection to a raised air intake. And get a few of those canister clips pop riveted on to give you access to the can for filter replacements. Suggest using something like 3" or 4" exhaust tube (thin wall stuff)

The thing that does not help air intakes is bends so try to keep the assembly as straight as possible or with only a minor change in direction, say 45 degree (naturally aspirated do what you want forced induction)


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If that's about my "V8 filter for V8" engine remark, I totally agree. This is just a case of using the bits I have, more out of necessity than any consideration to "performance". That said, with a large filter I'll be legitimate in my "race spec" engine claims in the obligatory badly worded eBay advert when I have to sell. Extreme.

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Having not had exactly the level of response I anticipated, I'll just post what I'm thinking through anyway.

First - here is the filter in the "right" position - inlet on the right, outlet on the left. Clearly not ideal.



The intake is resting where the HT leads need to come out, so it would need to be mounted angled slightly upwards, creating further issues with the brackets supplied (they only work with it straight ahead due to locating pins), so no less butchery involved.

This is the path of the filter to engine pipe if it were fitted this way:


So this is the best solution I can come up with, using this type of filter:


I'll have to prize off the drain valve (not that they ever work) so that it can fit into the space properly, but I wanted to avoid doing that. It also means the inlet is pointing upwards, so any water and mud is guaranteed to find its way in, and with no drain to go into any more, guaranteed to stay in.

It also means having to make up new brackets, the old ones would never fit.

I'll go with this if I have to, but I'm starting to think that a 200TDi filter will just be better all round.

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So on my V8 90 (non megasquirt) uses a Range Rover airbox like

With the trumpet side shortened and snorkel pipe attached (trumpet side on left hand side as you look at the engine)
The pipe does a U from the plenum to airbox on the bulk head
would have to adapter the output side as this normally clips to the air flow meter but I think Nige as a part for that.

On on my megasquirt V8 in use a 3" generic air box like

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LHD , so not important for you, but for an idea ,

BMC OTA 230 waterproof (in théorie water proof)

my O2 sensor give 13.5 with the 300TDI without snorkel, and now 15.5 with BMC and snorkel ( diam 90 fot snorcke) , so table VE modified

i think better airflow but less filtration



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  • 3 weeks later...

Did you ever reach a solution to this.

I have reminded Nige a few times to chime in here, and he PM'd to say he would, but alas he hasnt :(

Below is a pic showing that fitment of the standard v8 air filter housing should not interfere with heater.


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