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td5 H/D clutch for towing


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I need a bit of advice from those who've put in either a ceramic clutch or a rakeway job. The clutch has gone in the 110 TD5, and looking a heavy duty clutches give me two choices - Nige's ceramic job, or the rakeway kit. Both equally spendy really, so what it comes down to is practicality.

The truck does a lot of towing, sometimes with less-than-experienced landrover drivers, and gets driven by loads of different people, of varying abilities. So would the paddle clutch cause problems? I like the idea of a fit-&-forget thing, but don't want to make the truck unusable by average joe, or awkward for towing. Can you slip it a bit when you're pulling a plant trailer with about 3.5t on it? There are times when it's driven by people with a trailer licence, but no concept of a low box...

Cheers

Jake

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Jake,

I ran the 6 paddle ceramic clutch from Megasquirt for about 25k miles.

It works well on the road as long as you know the limitations.

You get much less slip... (That is, it's harder to slip the clutch when you relly want / need to. Like when manouvering / parking etc.)

Depending on the power of the engine, you may get some clutch slip when it's cold and the boost comes in.. (Only slips for a fraction of a second before clutch surface warms up and grips)

I didn't do regular towing so cannot comment in that area... But.. I doubt you could successfully slip to feed power in for starting off when fully loaded.....

I'm trying my third variant at the moment.

First was standard DMF setup - Lasted 27k miles... (VGT Turbo and larger intercoller etc.)

Second was Ceramic Paddle Clutch - Removed after 25k miles due to wanting to be able to slip on occasions etc. (Noticed some damage to the DMF / paddle surfaces when removed - No idea of cause)

Third / current is Rakeway Solid flywheel (Option 2 Plus on their site http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page28.html )

Positives - Lighter pedal, can slip when required, great grip / never slipped yet under power.... I expect it to last more than 27k miles

Negatives - Rattle through gearbox on tickover that others report.. Not a killer for me.... If you read around, some profess this kills the R380 and others say it's just the gearbox design was for DMF and will rattle.

Only time will tell.....

Happy to come find you if I'm in the area anytime for you to have a go.....

Neil

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That is, it's harder to slip the clutch when you relly want / need to. Like when manouvering / parking etc.)

Jake,

Much as though I love my Paddle Clutches its a NO for towing, as these get gripper the hotter they get, which is when they are either slipping or you try to slip ie starting. Slipping on a 90 / disco / RR etc to start at lights etc is fine, but slipping to take up a toing unit will result in the clutch getting v hot v fast and thus BITING HARD !

By a LUK prob best for what your after and IMHO KEEP THE DMF !

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Thanks for the replies guys, I think I'll stick with the LUK job for now then. It's cheap enough that I won't feel terrible if it doesn't last a million miles, and I didn't really want to loose the DMF just to gain a few more miles on the clutch, especially if there's a question of it damaging the gearbox.

Any suggestions for a cheap supplier for LUK bits Nige?

Cheers

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the other sad reality is that no matter which clutch or engine you put in if your driver spends his driving day resting his foot on the clutch pedal ("but i am not pushing it only resting my foot on it") then your clutch is going to die at some point..... this is one of the worst habit that surprisingly many drivers have.....best cure is to get them to change the clutch themselves..... in the sand where it breaks down, after that they seem to pay a little more attention :D

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