ballcock Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Having replaced the output shaft seal on my steering box, I was not happy trying to get the seal in (still leaking). I have since found out that I should have used some special tools. I tried at the time to fabricate some thing that would allow the lip to pass the cir-clip groove, but without success. I have tried to Google the tools to see them but no results are showing. Rave only shows the input shaft seal protector lrt-57-016. What has any body else had success fitting them with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 LRT-57-016 >>> http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/discovery300tdi/57_steering/page_836/ Looks like a bit of tube with a taper on one end If you measure the diameter of the shaft you may be able to find a bit of ridgid PVC tube about the same OD, then put a few splits in one end which would then form you a natural taper. (never done it but it may work). Other alternative that I have done.... get a roll of soft solder, either the stuff the plumbers use or the thinner stuff for electronics (you may use a bit though, but it depends on the groove you're trying to fill).... then wrap the solder in the groove and slide your seal over the top .... you could smooth out the ridge formed by the solder using a stanley knife of file etc (file will probably end up getting clogged up, and you really want a bit of a ridge to cover up the sharp edge). Edit: if you were worried about the splines and the groove, you could also find a plastic bottle in your recycling pile, and cut a rectangle out of it bit longer than you need and larger than the circumference (3.2xdia min [actually 3.142 but who's a smart a"££$]), roll that over the splines and groove and then your seal should slide over the top of it, recommend applying a bit of grease / vaseline / candle wax / oil andything for lube to the seal to get it to slide over the top of whatever you try from the recommendations / ideas above. Hope it helps Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks Rob. There is a picture in the Rave of that one but not lrt -57-026 the seal over the shaft is not such a problem, the outer seal to the block needs to pass the circlip recess and I'm wondering if i damaged it trying to fit it. I wondered if people have had success using some thing. I eased the lip into the block but cannot ease it passed the recess, I had tried a plastic outer sleeve from a thin bottle but the lip wouldn't deform enough to slip in. I will try to find a tin can of the right diameter that might do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 hmm... I have a copy of the Special Services Tools VL Churchill Book, which means that most of the tools are listed with the "RO" number. but I cannot see anything which may resemble lrt -57-026 I've also found this one ... http://www.discovery2.co.uk/pdf_files/Workshop_tool_list.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 That is the same as the Rave listing but alas no lrt-57-026 which is listed as a seal installer in the overhaul manual.I did consider trying to make something like a piston ring compressor out of a tin but was afraid the edge could slice the lip, hence trying to find a suitable sized tin or a suggestions from other people who have done them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I have access to a lathe and often make tools up for this sort of thing out of nylon round bar if I can be bothered but when passing lip seals over grooves i usually just wrap insulation tape over the groove to the end of the shaft, oil/grease everything then slide the seal over. Have rebuilt a few steering boxes without any trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Pressumably you're fitting with steering shaft still in the box? I used a 32mm speedy sleeve to repair a steering box, so an educated guess would be 35mm internal bore not more than 2/3mm wall thickness and around 100mm long is enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 I'm not trying to protect the inner seal over the shaft that was not the problem. I'm trying to ease the outer seal into the housing and passed the circlip groove which is about 45mm. I am not sure if the groove has a taper to allow it to slip up or not? I may be barking up the wrong tree and this is not why it is still leaking. I have bought another seal kit today so will try to find some thing to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Looking at the extract from one of the manuals (they are all roughly the same) Fit seal, lip side first, into housing. Use seal saver LRT-57-016 and seal installer LRT-57-026. Note that seal is fitted to a depth of 4.75 - 5.00 mm, 0.19 - 0.20 in from face of box. Given LRT-57-026 is a "seal installer", are we sure it's not just a press type tool (like the one linked)? didn't appreciate that the problem was installing seal into a recess, must admit even where I've done this sort of thing before and there is a circlip in place (LT230 output shafts) the seal normally has ridges on it so it just slides over the top of the circlip recess. It would be possible to infill the recess with a loop of solder (plumbers thick diameter) as noted in my earlier email. With regards to the ongoing leak (not that I know anything about doing a steering box), but is there any recess on the shaft that could be causing the problem as Nigel stated he has used a speedy-sleeve in the past (presumably on the shaft for a similar leak), or is the seal being installed too deep and creating a problem? All things to consider, hope they help somehow in the interim before someone comes along with the definitive answer of been there done that. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Thanks Rob I was trying to find a picture of lrt-57-026 seal installer to see if this kept the lip in till it passed the circlip recess but as I say might be barking up the wrong tree. I replaced the seal with box in situ so not able to give a thorough examination. will have to bite the bullet and take it off or just replace it. Will look into the speedy-sleeve option though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Pressumably you're fitting with steering shaft still in the box? I used a 32mm speedy sleeve to repair a steering box, so an educated guess would be 35mm internal bore not more than 2/3mm wall thickness and around 100mm long is enough. Hi Nigelw do you happen to know the part no. for this sleeve? Many thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Hi Nigelw do you happen to know the part no. for this sleeve? Many thanks Tom Hi Tom, you actually need the 31.75mm sleeve, this gives a better interference fit, combined with lockseal on the shaft to seal it under pressure, done 3 now and no leaks yet http://www.barnwell.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/5386 This my "how I did this" guide. http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=90607 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Thanks for the how to guide, I can get the speedi seal in the 32mm cr 99128 from RS components. I see the groove I'm on about in your photographs so I am still wondering how to pass it without damage but if you've had success just pushing past then I shouldn't worry. I was hoping to do this in situ have you done this or do you always remove the box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Either is doable, the seal itself is a compressable one and squishes in easily, there is a second seal which is infact the seals retainer washer and dust seal, the softer seal works under pressure from the hydraulics and is retained by the washer/dust seal. I assume it is the retainer dust seal you are referring to with the fitting? They do need a firm persuasion but slot in pst the circlip slot without drama normally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.