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Door welding


Mutley
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Just took N/Side door card off and the bottom frame has rotted (missing about 10") in the middle!

Can this be bridged by welding an section with the door skin on or will this cause a problem as the doors are aluminium?

Or should i start crying uncontrolabley?

Cheers Mutley

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I repaired mine with the repair section from SPLandrovers (or SP4x4 as they are now after being 'approached' by Land Rover). Easy job, remove door, lay flat on a sheet to stop scratches. Pry ally off door bottom, shove thin steel plate in to protect ally, grind out rot. Insert new piece and fettle to fit, tack up and check alignment. If alls ok, weld. Liberally slather with red lead, fold ally back and gently tap to remove creases. Not really hard at all. Bugger was getting the door off!

In fact if you only want to do a small bit I may have the remains of my repair section lying about. The overall length of the piece they sell is longer than the door and I'm sure I've still got a short bit somewhere.

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I wouldn't have any other door than the pressed steel type now, I've got three sets, far stronger, don't rot, don't flex, they shut like a proper quality car with a resounding clunk, don't rattle, proper lower door seal that actually seals.

I'm puzzled though - if they seal that well how does the water get out? :-)

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Honestly, you may not beleive it, but neither of my 90's leak any water. They both have new bulkheads with all new seals, new screen rubbers, roofs sealed, lots of time spent getting door, roof and panels to line up and shut properly, new genuine door seals (£60 a side but worth it) new door to window seals with corner gaps filled with black sealant. Also fitted the new latest type foam water shedders to the doors - these make a massive difference to preventing water ingress through the door window seals and runners

The new doors have proper drainage channels that drain any water that does find its way past the seals out and past the lower door seal.

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