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Anderson Connector and Jump Leads.


rrr47
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Just did a deal for some new jump leads with an Anderson connector. Their brilliant.

Half a metre of cable, connector, then 15 foot of jump leads!!!

Thought my 31 year old jump leads at 8 foot were long, with these I won't have to worry about parking the Rangie as close as possible for a jump.

Looking to ask fellow members for ideas on how to mount them. Should I use the rust hole in the bonnet for access? Is it wise to have the connector visible?

Any ideas or suggestions much appreciated.

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I've mounted on the front of the seat box before now and currently have an Anderson connector on my front cross member.

(Isolator in the front of the passenger seatbox)

I also have one behind the passenger seat, on the lower section of the dog guard that I use for my aux battery when touring. Again isolated when not in use but accessible from inside the truck...

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I mounted mine under the bonnet, on the left hand inner wing, and near the front. This was on a Defender though.

The logic was a straight run from the battery, and close to the front to maximise usable jump lead length. I find I am more likely to nose up to the other vehicle than come alongside.

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Mine is just inside the back door on the left on the side of the inner wheel arch. Due to the 'tolerance' under the door I can use it to power my electric tipping trailer from there even with the door closed

People do look at you oddly when you reverse up to them to do a jump start though!

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I have managed in-between the rain to fit the Anderson connector to the Rangie today. I have taken the suggestions to mount it on the slam panel, and in such a way that the bonnet needs only to be popped, not fully open. (Had a couple of bad experiences when jump starting someone in windy weather and bonnets fully up). Plus the battery terminal wires dictated where the said connector could be. Just need a cover now to keep the rain and dirt out.

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I have managed in-between the rain to fit the Anderson connector to the Rangie today. I have taken the suggestions to mount it on the slam panel, and in such a way that the bonnet needs only to be popped, not fully open. (Had a couple of bad experiences when jump starting someone in windy weather and bonnets fully up). Plus the battery terminal wires dictated where the said connector could be. Just need a cover now to keep the rain and dirt out.

Im clearly missing something here, but wheres the advantage of having an anderson on the slam panel? The bloody battery is just behind it! ;)

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I have to agree, but I did a deal for a watch I had been trying to sell for years, these leads were offered with money and so the set was what it is. The terminal leads are only half a metre, something I would of not ordered, but the jump leads are 15 foot, so no trying to get as close as possible any more as with my old jump leads. I don't have to raise the bonnet, just release the latch and access the connector.

But the most important reason why, is because I had something new and wanted to fit them.

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When planning all this *please* think about what can happen in a crash.

If you run the unfused +ve through a metal panel at the very least have an isolator switch so its disconnected when not in use.

Must admit, that thought had never actually crossed my mind :(

Now off to re-arrange my winch cables and fit the bloody isolator.

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When planning all this *please* think about what can happen in a crash.

If you run the unfused +ve through a metal panel at the very least have an isolator switch so its disconnected when not in use.

With the best will in the world whilst what your saying is good practice land rover never worried about it. ? Though I'm planning to put a mega fuse (400 amp) in my winch wiring.

Mike

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That's what I did . I actually cut the ends off about a foot from the end, and then fitted the remains with a connector as well. I can use them as normal jump leads then, should the need ever arise...though it hasn't ever yet!

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Does there not seem to be a slight disparity between the 1200A cable and the 175A connector? I know that you shouldn't be actually starting the other vehicle off yours, rather charging their battery for them to start from, but am I over-thinking it? Would I want a bigger anderson to be sure?

I suppose that the croc clips are the weak link, I don't recall seeing any that are rated much over 150A, and even then you'd struggle to get them to grip onto a terminal well enough to flow much above that current anyway, so maybe 175A would suffice. Certainly a damn sight cheaper than the 350 ones!

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