Ex Member Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 http://www.albrightinternational.com/files/downloads/catalogues/DC88.pdf 30 W max according to the manufacturer.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Zardos is correct in implying that contact breakers, fuses etc are largely there to protect the wiring and not the winch. If the winch starts taking vastly excessive current it's probably dead anyway and not much further to protect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I see, I'm running 50mm Sq wire through a manual isolator. So perhaps realistically that should suffice ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Yes I probably can, but given that it all lives in a not very weatherproof metal box under a trailer which will be damp from condensation, rain, road spray etc, I'm keen to keep the electrics to a minimum. Which I know makes it a dumb idea to fit a wireless remote, but I want one I've ordered a couple of waterproof high current toggles as a backup, so that might even end up being the solution - as long as it gets away from the tanglefest of the current lead, I don't mind... Ditch relays and get some MOSFETs a little box and some Magic Gel 1000. Plumb in the wiring to the box and then fill it full of the gel - it's electrically benign and is great for waterproofing electronics. You can easily rip it off the gel afterwards if you need to modify stuff. I once considered before I sold my winch to Mo changing over the solenoids to some beasty FETs that could sustain 500A continuous current. Would have allowed for nice PWM control of the winch too. Quite simple (well for someone who designs electronics for a living) to do to. Mind you the FETs were £50 each... But could be made 100% waterproof and allow PWM control and wouldn't weld shut like solenoids do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Interesting discussion, one thing I omitted to mention as I thought it was (almost) mandatory and that is I always use a snatch block when winching - I have 80 meter nylon rope on mine so that I can run to the snatch block and back to the car, this not only reduces the power needed to pull the car but it's also a lot safer as it pulls the car towards the snatch block. I have a short 3 meter lead made up so when I'm winching out of deep sand - a common problem with me - I bury the rear spare, put a tyre lever behind it and through the loop in the short lead which in turn is connected to the snatch block, bury the tyre in the pit and winch out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 well 12000lb winch and snatch block would reduce the Amps require for a given pull load by a factor of about 2.6 over a 9000lb winch without snatch block.But still does not reduce the max possible current draw (just increase the load need to reach it)By the way are you sure you mean Nylon? not Dyneema?If you really mean Nylon rope, then your rope will probably break a long time before you will trip any circuit breakers (a quick look says you would need about a 25mm diameter rope of nylon to match 11mm of Dyneema) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Yes, Dyneema - nylon to us Luddites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Yes, Dyneema - nylon to us Luddites I just refer to it as "string" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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