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Defender Triple Wiper Upgrade


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Hi All,

I know this has probably been covered before but i have put quite a bit of effort in to this project to make it great and thought it would be useful to share as i couldn't find much information when i was looking

So my plan was to do a triple wiper upgrade, i had heard of this previously and thought it was a great idea as i hate how useless the sweep area of the defender wipers are, for instance i have been running 13" blades for years when the LR standard fit is 11"

First job find info from previous attempts made, status: unsuccessful

i couldn't find any info just a photo of one job that didn't excite me due to the use of 2x 11" blades and 1x 10" blade with spacing dictated by the current holes in the bulkhead,

Note: i am not scared of drilling my Landy

this is the photo

post-19769-0-55688100-1424806263_thumb.jpg

so i measured everything up and did some cad magic to figure out the perfect sweep

post-19769-0-75240800-1424806324_thumb.jpg

perfect :)

time to order parts now and since my current wipers were a bit shot i decided to go all out new

3x genuine wiper boxes

3x genuine wiper blades

and 3x new bosch 13" blades

time to drill :ph34r:

first wiper drilled and test fitted

post-19769-0-09372900-1424806455_thumb.jpg

measuring from the left hand edge of the rain gutter below the windscreen i drilled at 185mm, and dead centre of the bit of metal where the wiper spindles sit and it was a 10mm hole

then the next two holes, 370mm from the centre of the first hole and then 370mm from the centre of the second hole,

all 3 13" wipers and arms fit perfectly,

now obviously i have moved all the wipers toward the drivers side to make the best swept area infront of the driver, to do this i removed the drive gear from the wiper motor which is 115 degree of movement and replaced it with one which does 105 degrees of movement

post-19769-0-93593000-1424807062_thumb.jpgpost-19769-0-89055100-1424806847_thumb.jpg

now the only thing left to do is make up some new drive cable tubes to accommodate the new position of the wheel boxes, probably the easiest part of the job.

if i missed any vital information out of this post let me know and ill add it, i hope this is useful to someone

In Total this upgrade has cost me about £120 although i needed 2x new boxes arms and wipes any way so the real cost of upgrading was only really about £50

cookie64

Tom

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hopefully ill get some film up for you before the weekend, I've got shoulder surgery on Saturday then ill be pretty much useless for 6 weeks while I'm not allowed to drive :(

suppose i can spend lots of time on here trying to replace ralph as the part no. guru muahahhahaha

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washer jet wise, i upgrade these years ago by standardising with the rest of the motoring world, i acquired two jets from an escort in the scrap yard and drilled my bonnet to fit them, now up until making this wiper set up i have always said that putting normal washer jets on was the single best modification i have ever done to my landy (bear in mind there isn't much original left now haha) so we will have to wait and see if they can be knocked from the top spot.

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Ah yes. Good mod. I tried the same with heated RRC twin jest, but despite measuring spray angles on my RRC, I ended up with them too far aft - I was limited in position by the spare wheel and bonnet mounted pioneer tools, so have them a bit further back than you. I thought they'd work, but they can't point up enough and I had to return to the standard SIII jets.

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sounds like you need to make up some nice tapered washers to go under them and adjust the angle, i tried it with modern 'mist' type jets but land rover aerodynamics just wreak havoc on that idea

also I've noticed i missed some vital info

the replacement drive gear was from http://www.s-v-c.co....tems-and-parts/ other parts of the system can be bought from here too

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well i got the new drive tube today for the cable to run in my local hydraulic pipe specialist had one on the shelf, 8mm buddy tube (6mm I.D) so ill get this all flared up and fitted tomorrow and prove they work, the pipe cost £23 for 3.5 metres, although i will only need about 1m worth

bodumatau, the stop 'top' location isn't infront of my eyes but would be in the field of vision as i hope my whole windscreen will be now, it is pretty close to where the original wiper stopped, just at less of an angle.

fridgefreezer, some have mentioned the extra strain on the motor and other things i have read suggest it can handle it with a breeze, i mean you can buy an OEM kit here for running three wipers. http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/wiper-system--three-wheel-box/

i am relocating my motor to the td5 position, 1. so the drive cable will reach the furthest wheel box and 2. to get rid of the stupid curved tube which is adding ridiculous friction to the system.

i suppose the most crucial part is making sure absolutely everything is slavered in lovely new grease to make it smooth running :)

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I'd go easy on the grease - some is good, but I managed to almost stop my wipers by over-keen greasing. I have found Superlube http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Multi-Purpose-Grease-100gr-Tube-type-/261697639061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cee651295 to be quite good, and better than normal moly grease. Just be careful what you search for....

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oh also, sorry to the owner of the white landy mentioned, i didn't want or mean to be rude

attachicon.gifIMG_0018_2.jpg

Hmm, that be mine! Without access to CAD, mine was the "minimally intrusive" conversion as far as bulkhead mods go.

The bulkhead is now like lace and since I have a new TD5 replacement, I'm probably going to revert back to twin wipers but with the later wheelboxes and bolt on arms to get rid of the stupid splined ones.

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  • 2 years later...

Great article.  Enough to make me decide that I'd give it a go, since my driver's side wiper has now decided to fall off rather than pushing any snow.  However, calling s-v-c to order this they're also looking for the exact distance from the motor to the first wheelbox.  By the sounds of things you were flaring the drive tubes yourself, but I don't have access to do that without taking stuff to the garage...  or is your recommendation in that case to put in the new motor and take all the measurements at that point to avoid error?  (s-v-c will also sell a 1.4m tube to be cut to length as part of the kit).

 

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