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Defender 90 Rear RH tubular Crossmember

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I'm going to have to replace this as it's rusted through the tube near the Diesel tank, has anyone done one ?

I've done both front ones but I want to know how difficult it is to remove the tube that passes through the chassis on the rear ones ?

Any tips ?

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I think the idea with those ones is that the smaller diameter section gets inserted into the existing tube within the chassis rails, rather than remove it - i.e. cut it off flush with the chassis and insert the new one. Then weld round the circumference where it exits the chassis. Depends where the rot is I guess as to whether this will suit, it sounds like yours is rotten at the other end by the tank so this would be OK assuming the bit within the chassis is sound.

Otherwise it's a case of cutting the tubular section out and letting in a new piece. A plasma cutter would probably be a good bet for that job I think. Or a hole saw just the right size.

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There are two types, the one with a tube the same diameter all the way along, and the type with the reduced diameter where it passes through the chassis.

I've done plenty of these and always have used the second type. Just cut the outrigger off flush with the chassis, then grind the remnants down so chassis is clean metal on outside. Then I use an air chisel to remove any rust and clean up the remains of the tube left in the chassis. Then grind down inside face of the chassis to clean metal up to weld to.

You don't need to remove the tank or any bodywork, just support the tank while you do the above. The outrigger will knock straight in if you rotate it backwards when inserting it, you may need to give it a belt with a hammer when fitting it

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Thanks people. Inspected thew other side more closely today and after a little prodding it revealed itself to be in a similar state. Both of them at the outer end thankfully so should be able to tidy up chassis and and fit the reduced diameter versions.

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I used the tapered one on my previous truck. ..

if I was doing it again I would use a straight one. Imo the tapered one is leaving rusty metal in place. ..

when gkn make the new chassis they actually have a square plate that is welded on the inside of the chassis rail... that way they can get it (apparently) right on the jig....

Twisting the tapered on when fully knocked in can be very tricky! !

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