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Chassis Repair


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Hi Guys,

I have a 110 chassis that i hope to use for my build.

It is in great shape except.....

There is a dent in the front crossmember where it was driven into a post!

I was hoping to cut it off and fit a front crossmember on it, but seems no one makes any!?

Despite the dent, which is slightly to the side of middle, everything from the front spring mounts back, seem fine.

The dumb irons have started to look inwards which is understandable.

Welding up the chassis shouldnt be a problem but was wondering what your thoughts are on how to proceed. (I cant afford a new chassis).

Could a series crossmember be grafted on it? These seem readily available.

Or do i remove the bent crossmember and fabricate a new one.

Altimately, do you think this chassis is saveable?

How can i check alignment?

Any thoughts or pointers would be great.

Cheers.

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The workshop manual has all the chassis dimensions available so you can jig it. I would do this before you do anything else.

The front crossmember and dumb irons aren't particularly complex and would be fairly straight forward to fabricate alternatively you could use a peice of box section to replace the cross member.

Will.

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Monster. .. where are you roughly? ?... in about six weeks time I will be cutting up my chassis to ensure its disposed of. .. I could save the section needed. ... although I haven't studied it to see what state it's in....

For info I'm in Dorset. ....

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I've done terrible things to my RRC classic chassis. The hydraulic pump is where the cross member should be! As long as it has the structural strength it'll be fine. Most important bit will be to check for creases on the insides of the chassis rails. That metal that has moved to let the legs point inward will probably pop back when you release the front.

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Pic didnt upload for some reason.

Manual doesnt give an diagonal measurements as far as i can see.

It might be a parellelagram!

Thanks for the input guys.

Thinking about it, i have a spare RR gearbox crossmember. Maybe i will weld that in place!

post-3419-0-04663100-1425679225_thumb.jpg

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If it were mine I would weld a long thread in the deep dent, use a very thick "U" section with a hole drilled to suit the long thread, and then heat the box section and pull it out to the correct dimensions. After it is corrected stitch weld a stiffening angle in case the box section has been softened.

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I'd cut the front face off plus the top and the bottom plates. Push the back flat, hammer the top and bottom flat before welding them back on and fit a new front face from sheet. Keeping the back face in place means I would know the exact original widths.

This is my normal MO of weakening a structure so I can push / beat it back into shape while keeping the positions.

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Pic didnt upload for some reason.

Manual doesnt give an diagonal measurements as far as i can see.

It might be a parellelagram!

Thanks for the input guys.

You don't need factory measurement, just pick two points on each leg one at each end and the same each side and measure diagonally. Both diagonals should be the same else knackered!

Marc.

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I have been looking at a Range Rover chassis year 80 - 90 I think. It has a good front crossmember.

Could this be grafted on to the 110 chassis? I thought i read somewhere that the RR and defender chassis are made differently.

(The 110 is a TD5 chassis).

Would i need to modify the RR front to accept a 110 bumper?

I am not concerned by the jack points. I normally lift by the axle anyway. I can easily add the misc small brackets quite easily.

How best to join them together? Butt each end and then add strengthing sheets down the side?

Thanks.

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