Pastycrimper Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hi All, A very long time since I posted - largely due to work and the dreaded (unexpected) MOT chassis failure last year (another story!). So I finally have the time and space (and hopefully the money) to start the rebuild. Note that a Landrover savvy mechanic is taking on the bulk of the project which is very close to me so I can go and help where I can and feel part of it - I just don't have the time to undertake the whole thing on my own. Anyway it's a 1997 300TDI 110 Utility vehicle......I am being given the freedom of sourcing all of the parts myself....... I'm sure there was a thread on here some years ago where someone posted a fairly thorough list of all the parts they purchased in addition to chassis and bulkhead. I know it really depends on how far I want to go, but I'm currently trying to price up a list of all things and I am sure there was a good rebuild parts list reference on here somewhere??? WIRING harness!!! - I planned on installing a new main engine harness and new chassis harness further bolstered in split convuluted conduit.....I spoke with Auto sparks and they said they only did the chassis harness and that there was a 6 week lead time on an engine harness due to a (nationwide) lack of a certain connector and they sounded pretty unoptimistic abpout a 300tdi harness at all! Any ideas for alternatives. I was thinking the chassis and bulkead would have the longest lead times but a wiring harness!!!! Very frustrating if I have to delay the whole project because of a harness. On the subject I am getting a Marslands Galved chassis and buying a brand new TD5 bulkhead and getting this galved (Very expensive but I figure that this is better than buying a rebuilt galved BH which themsleves are quite costly) - presumably I should waxoil these before getting them fitted!? I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions in the upcoming weeks but if anyone can point me to a parts list which I may have neglected to consider I'd be very grateful. My intention is to do as much as I can, money permitting! Anyway I apolgise in adance as such an open thread on a rebuild can lead in all directions many of which I am sure have been covered here or elsewhere but all tips greatly welcomed. Cheers Pastycrimper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 If you're having the bulkhead galv'd, waxoyl is kind of surplus... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Wondered where you had disappeared to, good to see you back on here, late 2013 I put a marsland chassis under my 110, happy to have a chat & for you to have a look at it if you want to, my swap thread is on here too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 ejparrott - Fair point although I am of the opinion that doing everything possible to prevent rust onset is worthwhile. My fear being that a tiny crack in the galv inside or thin patch may be the start of corrosion in just a teeny tiny place so surely an extra layer on fresh galv can be worthwhile?? ( a much debated point no doubt). I was also considering painting the chasis with Jotun marine paint which I am constantly see being painted on big steel decks whihc they don't seem to etch prime. I guess the only thing I fear with LRs is rust so I am trying to do everything I can at this stage to prevent this. Ralph! - I am good. I basically disappeared to sea on a 15 month contract and barely spent any days in Cornwall. I am back on a normal working rota again so trying to re-engage with life. It was a bit of a shock to have a catastrophic chassis fail last year so I just took her off the road and waited until now. Be good to catch up and chat rebuild over a cuppa! So many parts to consider! My list is getting longer daily and yet I am still paranoid that I am missing something that I should really replace....... now I have a good chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 If I had a new chassis one thing I would not put near it is waxoyl. It might look good for a week but it is prone to drying out and needing to be reapplied annually which is a pain. I would keep it bare and then you can see exactly what is what. Keeping the chassis clean would be the best medicine. If you want to coat your new chassis I would think to paint it in some por paint or such like whilst it is mint. Waxoyl is good for old rusty bits where there is a lot of water action such as protecting an outrigger on an old chassis. Generally rot is caused by mud sitting on the chassis holding moisture for long periods. A dry clean chassis will not rot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 ejparrott - Fair point although I am of the opinion that doing everything possible to prevent rust onset is worthwhile. My fear being that a tiny crack in the galv inside or thin patch may be the start of corrosion in just a teeny tiny place so surely an extra layer on fresh galv can be worthwhile?? ( a much debated point no doubt). I was also considering painting the chasis with Jotun marine paint which I am constantly see being painted on big steel decks whihc they don't seem to etch prime. I guess the only thing I fear with LRs is rust so I am trying to do everything I can at this stage to prevent this. Ralph! - I am good. I basically disappeared to sea on a 15 month contract and barely spent any days in Cornwall. I am back on a normal working rota again so trying to re-engage with life. It was a bit of a shock to have a catastrophic chassis fail last year so I just took her off the road and waited until now. Be good to catch up and chat rebuild over a cuppa! So many parts to consider! My list is getting longer daily and yet I am still paranoid that I am missing something that I should really replace....... now I have a good chance. Would be good to catch up, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 So aside from chassis and bulkhead I'm wondering what other steel parts should I strip and get galvanised? Currently got all new polybush kit ordered, stainless steel brake piping, a-frame ball joint, chassis harness at the ready. I still feel that there are many things I should also be considering........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 IIRC in the tech archive or on here somewhere is a list of parts that can be galvanised Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin. Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I did the chassis change thing on my '96 Defender a few years ago. I put a thread on the progress with all the parts and costs. The link should be in the signature block. Gav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 IIRC in the tech archive or on here somewhere is a list of parts that can be galvanised here the list http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83081&hl=%2Bgalvanised+%2Bparts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Galv will migrate to cover any little cracks , just keeping it clean, power wash will make it last , so there is no build up of damp debris in corners etc . If you think back to series landrovers , the chassis may have rotted , but the galv bumper is usually fine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Andersen Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 WIRING harness!!! - I planned on installing a new main engine harness and new chassis harness further bolstered in split convuluted conduit.....I spoke with Auto sparks and they said they only did the chassis harness and that there was a 6 week lead time on an engine harness due to a (nationwide) lack of a certain connector and they sounded pretty unoptimistic abpout a 300tdi harness at all! Any ideas for alternatives. I was thinking the chassis and bulkead would have the longest lead times but a wiring harness!!!! Very frustrating if I have to delay the whole project because of a harness. I'm new to Land Rovers and I have a LR Specialist getting my 1991 MOD D90 2.5 NAD LHD safety certified. The last thing to do is replace the wiring harness. Long story short, a harness at a reasonable cost doesn't exist anywhere in the world. We need a database of part compatibility so that we can use alternate part numbers, then modify or ignore the connections to suit our particular model and modification. There's a retirement project. Add that to the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastycrimper Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Thanks Guys. I'm not ignoring people - I'm just at sea on a shoddy ship with carp internet. @Gavin - Thanks- interesting read! @Ralph - Brilliant - That's is exactly the post I couldn't find. @D Anderson - I am having the same issue with wiring harness. I am slightly annoyed with myself as there was an LR orginal harness on ebay in Cyprus which albeit slightly expensive was at least available but it has gone now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedx Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I wouldn't have thought that the 300Tdi wiring harness would be that different to a 200Tdi, which iirc Autosparks do. At least it would be a good start. Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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