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R380 Reverse light switch


Boydie
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Okay, so it was my fault, I relaxed, drove over a very smooth salt flat, came off it and drove straight into a deep bulldust hole, the impact reshaped the sump guard and sheared the LH gearbox mount and destroyed the reverse light switch. If you have ever replaced one of these little suckers with the gearbox in position you will know why my fingers ache, my patience is zeroed and I'm seriously thinking of cutting and plating an access hole in the transmission tunnel :angry2:

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Vulcan, you must have very long spindly fingers - mine unfortunately are short. pudgy and 67 years old. To get t the bloody switch I had to remove the gearbox bracket (passenger side) which I had to do anyway to replace the sheared mounting, next to go was the oil cooler connection on the side of the box, allowing the hoses to drop and lubricant to drip all over me :angry2: but at least I could see the little sucker. To remove it I ground down a 19mm off-set ring spanner, reducing it's length and the thickness of the ring so that it would fit over the switch, onto the hex. and inside the gearbox casting - mine is a series "L" box and the switch tapping is fairly well deeply recessed. So, unscrewed the switch, replaced the new one and re-assembled the bracket, mount, oil-cooler connection thermostat/block topped up the lost lubricant and started the engine, engaged reverse and happy days I now have a reverse light ^_^ - "special" spanner should I ever need to change it again.

I did think of cutting an access panel in the side of the transmission tunnel but it occurred to me that I would need to buy a deep 19mm socket and disc grind a slot in it to allow for the wiring to pass through while unscrewing/screwing the new switch --- unless you had another way od doing it? Certainly a open spanner would not engage the 19mm hex due to the depth of the machined recess.

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My problem was a flickering reverse light so had a few mm machined off the flange of the switch so it would screw in more, unfortunately this left a wall thickness of .****all so when I screwed it in by hand then laid the spanner over it to gently nip it sheared off flush with the side of the box, hence the hole to remove the ruminants of said switch after many many rude words. I think I had a deep socket the wiring would tuck up inside but I can't remember 100%.

Will.

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My NEW genuine LR switch is the same, :angry2: to get the light to operate I have to hold the gear lever, otherwise it just flickers, after the hassle of installing it, it will just have to stay that way !!!!

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Yessssssssssss Oh happy days. I remove the cover of the gearbox top, engaged 4th and removed the selector block and sure enough there was a fairly deep groove that corresponded to the reverse light switch plunger -- obviously this component isn't heat treated or hardened. The groove was deep enough to allow the switch plunger to remain "out" and not operate the reverse lights.

I removed the plastic clip and selector ball, heated the block up and with Blue tip silver solder filled in the worn groove, filed it back to the original metal face and re-installed. I now have a reverse light that works, I'd guess in around 10 years the groove will wear again but at least I'll know how to fix it ^_^

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