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Pulling my hair out with this fault

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OK the latest on my starter motor

1, old starter works fine but every now and then would fail, cleaned all earth up etc and would still do it so time for a new one

2, Get a new one fix it in turns the engine over but even tho disengages still spins ..., Turn the engine off and still without being engaged its spining, pull the trigger wire off still spins, remove battery terminal and stops........OK send it back get a new one

3, fit original one back on and ok

4, Get second starter motor and does exactly what the one above did......Auto Electrician is called to the garage where he said "was that the volts and amps and that if its low amps its allowing the starter to arc across and keep spinning ".....

5, Try it with a booster box on the landy and seems to start ok

6, Fully charge the battery as only had 11 Amps try it again today and the same problem even with a mains wired booster on the landy..........3 -4 times it will start fine and starter proper disengage then it will have the problem again and again the only way to stop it spinning is take the minus terminal off.

7, Phoned my mate doing it and NOT a happy guy at all.....Phoned Fakenham Auto Electrical spoke to there top guy who said " If its actually still turning over when the engines then turned off its a feed down the wire ......the fact the cog is just spinning but not engaging its a faulty solenoid" ???? really on two brand new starters ?????? ........He also said trying to start it with a low powered battery can cause it to arc across and cause the solenoid to get stuck........???? Does this mean every time my battery drops a bit Ill bugger a starter LOL surely not. And remember its not doing it every time.....

8, Phoned the Mrs brother who head mechanic at a ford dealership and he suspected faulty starter as well

If it was my battery why would it still do it with a mains booster connected .....any one ever had two new faulty starters in a row .....and please please please any ideas on this as want to dam well cry at mo out of frustration

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What engine?

What management-system??

What Immobiliser???

What's the provenance of your replacement starter-motors????

If the starter's still trying to turn when there's no-volts applied via the thin wire [disconnect it to prove], you've got a buggered starter.

If you're still getting a feed to the starter on the thin wire when you're not holding the key in the 'crank' position then I'd be looking at a sticky-contact problem in the relay that the ECU uses to tell the starter-motor to crank [assuming it's a TD5 or Puma].

Remember that the "crank" signal from the key-switch [at least on TD5/Puma] doesn't get fed to the relay controlling the starter-motor solenoid until the ECU has completed its pre-flight checks.

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Ok 200TDI fitted to what was a a TD

Immobilizer is a cobra one

The starter motors one was a Bermach one fro LR parts on Ebay second from Fakemham Auto Electrical and was a Gen landrover bosh one (land rover badged stamped in it)

If you pull the trigger/starter wire of the starter it still spins ..so surely that rules out the ignition or relay getting stuck or sticky

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If your old one works ok most of the time and it's fault isn't the same as these 2 replacement ones ? then I'd

say you have 2 faulty new parts , it does happen believe me . I'd be looking for a local specialist rebuilder and get the old one

rebuilt properly .



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If the motor continues to turn [at any speed] when the thin trigger/starter-wire's disconnected then it's what we know as "Truly DoublePlusUpBuggered".

Probably means the plunger in the solenoid on the top of the motor is dragging or sticking. Send it back, it's "not fit-for-purpose" in Trading-Standards terms.

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If the motor is spinning without being in mesh with the ring gear, there must be a live feed direct to the motor, that's the lower stud on the solenoid.

Are all the wires connected correctly? No stray wires?

The white/red to the small spade, and the battery cable, alternator and dash feeds all go to the upper stud on solenoid.

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What I would do is.....

take a fused battery feed straight from the +ve of the battery via a momentary switch (non latching) to a crimp lug straight on the the lug on the starter motor,

This would by pass everything in your main loom and try if that works.

taking out of the equation any knackered ign switch, short circuits, open circuits, loose connection or anything else. this would tell you if you have a issue on switched side if it all works properly and as it should

If the starter starts to spin and you pull off the small spade terminal ,there has internal short inside the starter motor, or something is stuck

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All I know, I just fitted a brand new (probably recon though) Bosch starter to my tdi as I was having intermittent solenoid issues, and first drive out it already has issues. So just beacuse you pay extra for a supposed quality marque, doesn't mean a thing. It "may" have settled down now one more issue and it is going back.....

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