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Wheel alignment


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Well a little while ago I changed some ball joints and my steering went a bit haywire.

I run 33” tyres and the string method of alignment just did not work for me.

Today I decided to have a look and see if I could get the steering set up a bit better so armed with a good tape measure I went for it.

Get underneath and hold the tape measure on the edge of the inside of the wheel rim and stretch across to the other wheel and touch the tape on the opposite side at the same height and lock it.

Take a reading – my front was 66mm rim to rim. This was as near to centre on the horizontal as I could get.

Do the same at the back of the wheel rim at about the same height as the front – lock and take a reading – my back was 58mm which was giving me 8mm toe out, as far as I know it should be 2mm toe out.

Loosen the lock nuts on the back tie bar and adjust till you get the 2mm toe out and lock the locking nuts back up.

Measure at the same point back and front to confirm that it has not moved when locking the lock nuts.

Just thought I would share.

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You should mark the wheel rims where you are measuring and then roll the car backwards or forwards until the marks are ~180* from original and re measure, this should eliminate and rim or hub irregularities. This is how I was taught to do tractors by Goodyear.

Will.

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I would not use the tyre as I have seen some large eggs on tyres, you could always turn the wheels a few times after setting and then recheck if you think your wheels are damaged or bent.

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Doing what Muddy describes though removes the worry about imperfections doesn't it? If you mark the rim or tyre and measure in the same place after rotating 180 degrees, then you are measuring the same thing and as you are looking at the difference, any imperfections wont affect this???

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