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Disco V8i Based Sahara Kit Build


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Morning!

Any owners out there who wouldn't mind sharing there build experiences of the Sahara on here?

I'm planning a build of 4 seat version of the Sahara kit. I've found the build reports below, but other hints & tips to avoid standard pit falls would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/82551/sahara-blitz-land-rover-update

https://mostlypyjamas.wordpress.com/category/ncf-sahara-build/

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Download the iva manual you may or may not need to iva it. I'm not sure if you cut the chassis or not some look like they have= iva some not= no iva either way it's good to build to iva spec even if you don't need it because later on if something changes you know it will pass if your forced to.

Mike

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That is a good shout regards the IVA. As far as I'm aware there isn't a need for it (no chassis modifications), but a prescribed build standard works out easier than personal that'll do method where you can end up over or under doing stuff.

Dash is a bit on the tatty side. I was considering creating a more utility/race styled dash in which case the IVA guide will be invaluable.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The original idea for the kit was for it to be assembled using basic garage tools without the need for a welder. I'll be needing that to repair parts of the front and rear footwells of my donor. Also as the chassis is not cut and could in practice be returned to being a discovery it should get through without an IVA. When there is a 33" spare on the rear it looks more in keeping as it looks like it's protecting the spare or hidden by the spare, which ever way you look at it.

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Hello all,

I now manufacture and supply the NCF kits, and will be attending the Billing show with the two current kits.

I've seen these at a kit car show, they looked nice but they all had a huge bit sticking out the back which I assume was to avoid cutting the chassis?

The "step" at the back is to cover the end of the chassis and avoid the dreaded IVA, the body can be extended back over it as a special order, but it does have an impact on the appearance, making the loadbed look very long (like a 110" Defender"). The chassis could be shortened, but then an IVA would likely be required.

how much does the forward tilting bonnet and who sells them ?????????. that will be a perfect touch for myy hybrid discovery/defender if it will fit, said he fingers cross.

Cheers ALAN

Sheffield S25

I could supply just the front end, if you are interested / would like a price, email or phone me - contact details are here: http://www.fourwd.org.uk/page5.html

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  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Interesting Wes, it looks very tidy. I saw these at Billing last year and thought they liked ok. The bit sticking out at the back does look a bit odd but as a chippy mate of mine used to say, if you can't hide it, make a feature of it ?

Mo

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  • 4 years later...

Well this is a zombie project and thread raise!

Gave up on old donor. Too much knackered! New chassis sans gearbox/engine mounts arribed a couple of summers ago, along with a new RRC donor that is very rusty but mechanically sound.

Project has been idle due to getting my Engineering contracting and 3D Printing company off the ground following redundancy. Now that's on hold too as I am looking after my son after his nursery turfed all but key workers children out.

Last couple of months has finally seen action, in part because we want some drive space back!  Now stripping the RRC, but trying to keep things together as long as possible before swapping onto the new chassis for a dry build, before stripping again for either galv, paint, or some other rust proofing!

I will need to fabricate a bulkhead and floor. Still considering moving the engine back 10",  just need to check to ensure I have room.

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Next time I'm on the build will do.

Currently on day care and printing PPE!
Current situation is the body is sat on the old chassis that only has the steering box left on it. Axles are getting in the way in the garage and desperate for a clean.

New chassis is still bare (Designa Chassis) and ready to start receiving things.

RRC is partly stripped, only interior at the moment.

This isn't going to be a competition or overland truck. I'll be attempting to save the air suspension system from the RRC, just keeping springs spare if I do go on a longer trip.

Only getting one day a weekend so progress will continue to be slow! 😉

Edited by WesBrooks
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Here's the donor! This is formerly @Bigj66 's '94 RRC. I'd had the usual share of guilt on breaking this vehicle but after swallowing that down and starting to strip it, it was more and more obvious that this body had seen it's last days save it finding a different owner to me who was dedicated to its restoration at a cost that would never have been recoverable on sale. Bit like my kit build that I guess! 😄

Rust is extensive, chassis in the usual place beside the Cats, through old repairs in rear boot floor, bottom of pillars, footwells both sides, and top right of windscreen which had rusted through from the rain gulley and had caused the footwell foam to soak up litres of water and hold it agains the metal slowly rotting through the floor and sills.

Rust aside the car has been a work horse and has seen its fair share of maintenance that aside from metal patchwork had included work on the SRS system, replacement of fuel lines, aftermarket speakers (shelves for kit 🙂 ), ignition lock replacement, and the odd other repair on wiring here and there such as the posative feed to the fuel pump. While the car has seem much better attention than the first donor the end result is alas not much of the trim is saleable with clips here and there being broken or missing, but I am saving what I can for post lock down ebay.

First recent attention from me has been to get it mobile again. There is a slope on my drive forward of where this is parked so pushing this lump around isn't much of an option. We have had success and after a new fuel line, battery, defeating the SRS (turned out to be not needed) and anti-theft systems it fired for the first time in around a year and after a short oeriod of rough running (air in fuel, hydrualic tappets empty), she was running smoothly again.

 

This vehicle hasn't been read its last rights, more like just entering some serious plastic surgery!

Edited by WesBrooks
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Today's exercise is probably get some more homebrew on the go, but with regards the project I am slowly stripping out sections of the loom that I'm not using.

I have now completely removed the SRS system and gotten rid of the SRS warning lights on the dash. Likewise the central locking and anti-theft system is out and defeated. On the latter point if you have an old RRC or Discovery 1 the anti-theft system is shockingly simple. Don't  trust it.

Next up is removing, cleaning, and storing the currently redundant air suspension system. I want to use this on my kit but it will be with some very robust system locks/defeats just incase it does fail out and about. I'm following the air my 90 thread very closely! 🙂

Following that is unpicking the loom from the from the front two doors, removing the window controller, and dropping the roof looms to the floor in prep for stripping the removable body panels post lockdown after it finds space in my garage.

Space is an issue. I really need to scrap the remains of the original D1 donor (the chassis) and prop up the kit body high (and safely) enough for the new chassis to slide/roll under. I want to do an exercise with the drive train to see if it is possible to move the engine back 10" (front to back prop swap) in the chassis and keep enough room to sit in front of the cross braces and seatbelt anchors on my chassis.

That will require the majority of the RRC body to be stripped and scrapped/sold/out of the way. I plan to make a mock up wooden bulkhead on the kit body and slowly move the working loom to that before fabricating a propper steel bulkhead and floor. Most likely locost box section style, but bigger box than they use if only for simplicity.

Edited by WesBrooks
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Minor progress this weekend. I dropped the looms from around the roof and started stripping the unwanted sections of the loom from the donor.

Removed the air suspension valve bolck with very little fuss, but the cylinder bolts were heavily corroded, and rounded. To be fair I wouldn't have reused the cylinder, opting instead for a new pressure vessel with warranty. I'll need to double check the IVA manual with regards air and leveleing suspension. If it looks like too much work I'll shelve it for post IVA, but would still like to use it.

DSC_1863.thumb.JPG.0f30be704ed5bc9c94700b61e805ab12.JPG

I was pleasantly surprised that the pump and valve block looked ok on the outside because of the level of corrosion on the box.

Here's the body again. Slight variant on the stock sahara kit, but I get the impression most changed a bit! Mine has the van back shape and the rear door modified so that it isn't full width which causes less IVA issues and looks a little more defender.

DSC_1860.thumb.JPG.2d7712b1ce3728b1aadc6b3b3494fbf2.JPG

This however is how blank the canvas is for the bulkhead and floor! Think I've already said but I intend to mock up in wood then jig and weld up the chosen solution.

DSC_1862.thumb.JPG.a3e77c8ff56519900f16bd1d3f20f128.JPG

May get an order of wood in soon as I think I may stall soon. There's only so far I can go before I need to get the RRC inside, or need to lift off the body from the original donor chassis and scrap it.

Edited by WesBrooks
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Sorry to be negative, and it may just be the view in the picture, but am I the only one concerned about half a ton of cage held to a ton of rolling chassis/driveline by a bolt on 4 boxsection tabs?

The original body was a complete steel cell in its own right so if the vehicle rolls over on to its roof the chassis cannot come into the passenger area. Unless there is more I cannot see, if this inverts, only the 4 tabs and its bolt are stopping the 1 ton of chassis/driveline from falling in?

Is there a mounting for the main hoop that goes direct to the chassis or a tube across the top of the chassis to close the cell? If not I would have some reinforcement from the chassis to the front hoop/bulkhead tube and something similar at the main hoop. Without triangulation any rotation along the cernterline in a roll would seperate the chassis from the tube structure.

I appreciate that Land Rovers (Series and Defender) do not seem to have much more robust fixings but the fixings that are there are designed to match the body attachment structure.

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I'm not done yet!


Original kit build it the original floor is bolted to the tabs all the way along the sills. The bulkhead isn't bolted to the body but retained it's original two forward mount points. There is also a total of 6 mount points direct between the chassis and kit body.

I will be fabricating a floor and bulkhead which will weld to the existing kit body at least. Undecided on whether to weld it to the chassis or not, but currently favoring bolt. I will also be making up a new rear cross member that better connects to the base of the roll hoop stays.

 

Edited by WesBrooks
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