innes6320 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Hi My brake pedal seems to sometimes work at the normal distance of depression or the pedal travels further in before getting any brakes. I tryed changing the seals in the master cylinder and have used both easy bleed system and pumping the brake pedal and the brakes are still the same. Anyone have any other suggestions Thanks Colin Sorry forgot to say its a defender 90 1999 td5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Sounds like a wobbly wheel bearing allowing the disco to push the pads back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Worth checking the metal where the master-cylinder bolts on to the 'dustbin lid' part of the brake-servo: the servo metal is thin and can crack - it then flexes and can allow air in which reduces the vacuum and can cause variations in the way the brake action feels [both the amount of free-travel before any braking happens, and the firmness of the pedal]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innes6320 Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 My servo is in gd enough condition so i don't think it would be that. I know that i had to tighten a wheel bearin on the front before its last mot but there is nothing from stoppin the nut from loosening itself off again which i thought was stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 two nuts and a lock tab washer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 td5 axles don't have two nuts and lock washer. They have a big washer and a nut with a bendy edge on it that you bend down like a lock washer. on my old td5 90, I converted back to the old style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 ooer didnt spot it was a td5 .. mental note to self - read all the thread before opening trap. Still has locking tab but I reckon earlier setup is better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 So how did you tighten the bearing? Just wondering as td5s have a spacer, and once tightened up to it thats it. The pad knockback might still be happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innes6320 Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Just in from working on the landy. It was a slack wheel bearing. It looks to have a locking nut but the lockin part is buggered so have bought new ones. Brakes are now working like new again. Thanks for all the help Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 For reference, on the Td5 setup if when you do the nut up to the prescribed torque there is still excessive play, the bearing is worn. As the bearings will be made to a finer tolerance than the machining of the hub, 999 times out of 1,000 you can just swap them over and reuse the same spacer piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Are all td5 defender axles set up this way? I ask because I had an SHB hire that they subbed to a small garage - the garage went bump and I was stuck with the hire but no service for it - long story short it needed a wheel bearing and one of my engineers did it to save the hassles of trying to swap the truck. It was 2 nuts and a tab, maybe the job had been done before by the garage but it was a fairly new vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 The TD5 setup is utter carp, there are different size spacers available but it's a huge amount of faffing to change to another size. The old adjuster and lock nut are far better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Double post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Just to make it clear for anyone new to it who might be reading this, the TD5 nut is not a locknut as such, like a nyloc or philidas; it needs staking to hold it in place once it is fully tightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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