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New Truck! :) Td5 GS Auto - General Advice Please


Dunc

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Hello everyone,

Just wanted to share with the group (!) we've bought a new truck. :i-m_so_happy:

My 7th Disco, but my first Series 2 model.

post-619-0-96730600-1427985648_thumb.jpg

What I want to know is; is there anything specific to the Td5 that I need to pay attention to?

:huh:

As a 'seasoned' Land Rover sufferer, most is familiar, and let's be honest a chassis is a chassis is a chassis, axles are axles etc etc.

The fly-by-wire, electronic gizmos and especially the Td5 engine are all new to me though. I'm a bit apprehensive interferring with that side of things, but only because of a lack of familiarty.

Any advice for good areas to check for pre-emptive fault finding, symptoms and signs to watch out for and of course general pointers all very much appreciated.

If anyone has done any mods that made their Td5 go better or improved mpg, then please let me know about those too.

Cheers :i-m_so_happy:

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Having just cleaned my MAP sensor - it's the first thing I'd recommend.

3 bolts to get the engine cover off - then 2 10mm bolts hold it into the inlet manifold.

The EGR gums it up - and having done mine its Sooooo much smoother :-)

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Having just cleaned my MAP sensor - it's the first thing I'd recommend.

3 bolts to get the engine cover off - then 2 10mm bolts hold it into the inlet manifold.

The EGR gums it up - and having done mine its Sooooo much smoother :-

Will do. Thanks very much.

I'd put stripping and cleaning the EGR valves on the list of 'to do' jobs already.

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Any advice for good areas to check for pre-emptive fault finding, symptoms and signs to watch out for and of course general pointers all very much appreciated.

Serpentine belt, idler and tensioner health - Check it, and if in doubt renew, before this happens:

17021449091_d610da3184_z.jpg

Good tip on the MAP sensor...is ordinary brake cleaner ok to use?

Matt

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I used brake cleaner - but sparingly.

It's a dual sensor - pressure and temperature. There is a sort of rubber boot and there is a hole in for one of the sensors, which I wasn't certain how it would cope with being soaked.

On a different note: I need to swap my tensioner out - your picture has spurred me on to get it done.....

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Yes, sadly you're correct Simon.

One of the reasons I could afford her was that I needed to weld the rear chassis leg and both inner front footwells.

Mine broke in half when I took it off to replace it. Only the body was holding it together. New galvy chassis and £7k spent. Still need to tidy it up in places but now a good solid truck.

I only had it 4 months before I found the rot. My heart stopped my head from looking it over properly. :blush:

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£7k !!!!! Good grief.

It must be a keeper :)

No necessarily.....I work on the assumption that I lost £6k per year on a brand new Freelander 2 HSE over 3 years. If I buy the car outright and I can sell it again and loose no more than £3k per year then I am saving money.

I don't know what my Disco is worth maybe £4 to £5k so even with the money I have spent buying and putting the new chassis on I am still in profit as I have had the car nearly 3 years and no way have I lost £12k on it.............Hmmmm looking at it that way I can now justify selling and getting a new toy :rofl:

Joking aside in the £7k I bought heavy duty bumpers, new gas shocks, new brakes, new air springs, front and rear receiver hitches, Hella spot lights, winch and a lot of other odds and sods So don't think overall £7k was too bad. Although the garage that did the worked milked it for more than double the initial quote despite the fact that I built up the rolling chassis myself.

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Yes, I'd like to do a galv on mine and once an engine rebuild is done, definitely be a keeper.

Can't believe how good it is to drive, ACE is a revelation.

On the EGR front, I cleaned mine with regular degreaser and then carb cleaner. Reassembled using Rocol non-silicone wet film lubricant until it beds back in to stop it binding.

I've driven them blanked and unblanked and if they're working properly I don't think there's very much difference, more psychological than anything, bit like how we were all convinced our Mk2 Escorts gained 20bhp once we put a cherry bomb on...

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Yes, I'd like to do a galv on mine and once an engine rebuild is done, definitely be a keeper.

Can't believe how good it is to drive, ACE is a revelation.

On the EGR front, I cleaned mine with regular degreaser and then carb cleaner. Reassembled using Rocol non-silicone wet film lubricant until it beds back in to stop it binding.

I've driven them blanked and unblanked and if they're working properly I don't think there's very much difference, more psychological than anything, bit like how we were all convinced our Mk2 Escorts gained 20bhp once we put a cherry bomb on...

The galv will make it last longer certainly.

I took the ACE off when I rebuilt it because of cost but already had bought Terrafirma gas shocks. I cannot tell the difference between the two. The car certainly shifts (I think it has been chipped but cannot confirm it) and can go round corners too.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

check the fron 4 steering and tracking joints, the adjustment seizes up easily,

Check your alternator output, when it goes on the blink it will rear end your £100 Battery, and leave you stranded

you might even get limp home mode gearbox fault on low volts

check there is no oil in your ecu - only joking - there will be oil in your ecu - dont panic, just drain it off once a year.

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  • 4 years later...

I just found this from 2015 while looking at some of my old posts. I find it very interesting that we were discussing the merits of a new galv chassis which at that point Dunc described my car as a keeper and I said not necessarily. Just goes to show that 7 years after the initial project I am still reluctant to give up the car and still use it every day and has just passed the 200k mile mark. I do have other cars but this is the main user and I am still very happy with it.

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3 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

I just found this from 2015 while looking at some of my old posts. I find it very interesting that we were discussing the merits of a new galv chassis which at that point Dunc described my car as a keeper and I said not necessarily. Just goes to show that 7 years after the initial project I am still reluctant to give up the car and still use it every day and has just passed the 200k mile mark. I do have other cars but this is the main user and I am still very happy with it.

Glad to hear you've still got it. 👍

Sadly mine has gone, made way for a Disco 4 which after 3 warranty claims in 5 months I lost £6k on and got a Passat.

😢

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Mine had full MOT and was in great condition when I traded it in. I'd have a lot more money in my pocket now if I'd kept it, that's for sure.

I think my Land Rover days are behind me now, unless I can afford a Series 2A to have as a toy at some point. The modern ones cost so much in upkeep, the slightest thing plays up and it's a fortune to fix.

Once my current finance on vehicles is paid off, be a Rivian or VW Buzz for me.

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1 hour ago, Dunc said:

The modern ones cost so much in upkeep, the slightest thing plays up and it's a fortune to fix.

 

In 2007 I bought a New Freelander HSE on PCP.At the end of the deal I was going through a divorce and my business hit very hard times so it had to go. I relaosed that over the period, 3 years, I lost £18000 which was just crazy. I replaced it with a P38 that unfortunatly lasted only 9 months before problems. Had a Mondeo for 9 months before I bought the Disco. 

I do somewhere between 200 th 30k miles a year and would wipe out the value of a new car. And as you say cost a fortune to keep on the road. I now have a collection of cars and don't loose £6k every year.

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