Tom17 Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Currently doing a bit of a rebuild on my landrover it's currently a rolling chassis with engine and bulkhead/ dash board fitted etc I had the chassis sand blasted and a friend of mine is currently doing a few hours here and there welding some parts that needed attention I'm hoping it will be complete in the next week or two depending and how much time he has free to help I'm just wondering what people find the best to now paint on after this kind if thing has been done? I've read paints like hanmerite are no good as they crack and allow moisture in underneath Any suggestions on what to use also where I can get them and rough costs if people know that would be great Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Get it galvanised! Failing that look at jotun jotamastic and hardtop, bilthamber electrox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Galvanising can cause distortion or twisting due to the heat, if its an old chassis - as in this case - have it chemically cleaned by full immersion -- this will removed any corrosion inside the chassis rails -- and then have the entire chassis dipped in a good primer. You can then spray it any colour you want and get at least 10 years rust free pleasure out of it. Just remember to hose it down every time you go and do some serious off-road touring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 POR 15 is really good and is used on old cars, it goes rock hard. Only think is if you do buy it, its best to use the whole tin in one go as it reacts with air. Or buy a few small tins and do it in stages. I would have a read about this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I'm also in favour of galvanising. To be honest ive never heard of a chassis twisting due to galvanising. If the thing is so thin due to corrosion that it twists, it was past saving anyway. Flat, thin surfaces can distort but not a decent, repaired chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I did galvanise my chassis but used POR 15 on all the other bits and brackets. you can not beat galvanising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Not keen on galvinising as if I was going to pay £600 to have that done I'd sooner just buy a new one for 1200 from Richards chassis I'm after something I can paint on by hand in the state it's in I don't want to take the engine out etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 £600 is a bit rich for galvanising the chassis. However if you don't want to galvanise I would echo the above comments on POR15. Sticks to bare metal like sh!t to a shovel. If your planning to keep the defender for a long time I would still be galvanising it. It will last waaay longer than any paint you mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I cant see the point of galvanising an old chassis unless its got some historic significance, i.e. something you cant get a new one but want to preserve. As you correctly say an extra 600 quid gets you a new one that has some degree of certainty about the state of its insides. Jotun make excellent paints and coatings and simple chassis black is what I keep on the shelf here - It certainly coats well and comes in for all manner of uses. I also use a tower paint which is a two coat system, primer and top coat which is very good for older steel and when you lift the tins you can tell its not just paint. Made by Stokes the primer is sp01-5644 tower paint air dry alkyd primer and the top coat is sp36-4149 tower paint micaceous iron oxide grey finish. You would be hard pushed to say it wasnt galved but of course its not. Painted an old ifor williams sheep trailer with the same stuff in 1995, no preparation just painted it on, its never been in a shed and its *just* showing signs of the rust coming through. I buy mine from a supplier as its coming to end of life and as such its not too expensive but for enough to paint a chassis you might find a crew painting pylons who would part with an end of tin(s) for a few beer vouchers. Just something else to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I did galvanise my chassis but used POR 15 on all the other bits and brackets. you can not beat galvanising. I went the whole hog, my new chassis is galvanised, and then POR15-ed! . Two coats, and the rear cross member will probably get another as its on show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I went the whole hog, my new chassis is galvanised, and then POR15-ed! . Two coats, and the rear cross member will probably get another as its on show. Good strategy - I also chassis blacked the new chassis under my 90 , I dont like the look of a galv chassis as it (IMO) attracts too much attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 my new galv chassis got treated & primed & a few coats of proper chassis black paint, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 2 part epoxy marine paint if you're not going to galv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I had a D2 chassis blasted for £100 and it cost £175 to have it galved along with all the associated brackets ect. If you can afford a new chassis I'd just buy one and do the job right it will save a lot of hassle. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thats probably about the right price 'cos we pay about 150 quid a tonne + vat for structural steel. Funnily enough it didn't seem to change when the cost of raw materials went up 18 months ago. 100% agree if its a keeper - new chassis is going to last probably as long as private individuals will be driving assuming someone doesnt decide they need it more than you ;-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I think the problem with painting at home is you can't paint inside the sections easily, short of driving it into a lake of paint. Even waxoiling isn't as good as galv, and they tend to rot from the inside( at least in the UK), so even if the outside is perfect, it is only a matter of time. Where it's patched will be especially an issue, because welds tend to rust, and there are likely to be gaps in the paint on the inside. If you don't want to galvanise for whatever reason, I'd think in terms of marine coatings, 2-pack are generally better than air drying because they harden rather than dry - allegedly you need 3 coats of air drying to ensure pinholes in the coating don't align.I have used POR15 successfully but it does need a rough surface, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I went the whole hog, my new chassis is galvanised, and then POR15-ed! . Two coats, and the rear cross member will probably get another as its on show. Yep that's what I did as well. I even put a coat of matt black acrylic on top of the POR15 as well as I don't like the shiny look. Total overkill of course because under there it ain't gonna stay shiny for long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Yes, you might as well preserve the galv as much as possible, having gone to that trouble. I imagine archaeologists in the future pondering over what it might be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Only a few weeks ago I had a chassis blasted and dipped. Total cost for that was just over 300.... If it had been an older chassis I would have had it blasted first. Then repaired it. Then dipped it.... one thing to bear in mind is the amount of crud that gets inside the chassis. I have just cut the old one up. And one section is almost solid. Dipping won't cure that ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Okay, I have a Disco so things Defender may be different. I have never stripped my chassis down to the extent that you have as in a rolling chassis. In Australia I must also hasten to add that we don't seem to have the same degree of corrosion either however we do get a lot of fine dust and with moisture this turns into slime. When I was over-hauling the engine (full blue print re-build) and gearbox I used a very high pressure cleaner to blast out as much crud as I could out of the chassis rails and then allowed them to dry out -- with some help from a garden leaf blower. After some three weeks I blanked off all the chassis rail slots and holes and pumped them full of AB polystyrene foam mix, the heat this stuff generated was quite awesome and the pressure was considerable - enough to pop out some of the plastic bungs that I had used to close off the drillings. Anyway, for better of worse the chassis rails are now fully sealed and I'm 99% sure that little if any moisture can ever get inside the rails even during deep creek crossings. The only problem I've experienced was getting the gearbox mounting bolts and the front sump guard bolts out as they were well and truly glued in, once out however a smear of grease was all that was needed to slide them back in through the rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oakmaster Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Hereford Galvanisers £150 for shot-blast, acid dip and glav - Richards Chassis nearly £2000 inc bolt-in X-member, & VAT (I had Richards) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 My favorite (unusual) solution is Floor Paint. I've painted a couple of chassis and a roll cage with the stuff, not to mention two concrete floors. Once it's set, it is almost impossible to scrape off. I guess that if it can survive on a floor with heavy footfall + forklift - a chassis / cage is easy for it! I use it on anything that will suffer abrasion. I've found it works best without primer and with a light sheen of rust - the kind of rust you get within minutes of shot-blasting! I think it gives POR15 or two pack epoxy a run for their money. Best of all, it's cheap! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Any particular brand Si ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oakmaster Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 My favorite (unusual) solution is Floor Paint. I've painted a couple of chassis and a roll cage with the stuff, not to mention two concrete floors. Once it's set, it is almost impossible to scrape off. I guess that if it can survive on a floor with heavy footfall + forklift - a chassis / cage is easy for it! I use it on anything that will suffer abrasion. I've found it works best without primer and with a light sheen of rust - the kind of rust you get within minutes of shot-blasting! I think it gives POR15 or two pack epoxy a run for their money. Best of all, it's cheap! Si I like the idea, but I suppose the usual questions about whether it cracks when the chassis flexes and so on - What was the Specification / manufacturer of the paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I too have used concrete floor paint on my chassis, axles etc, and had good results. It has worn off high contact areas like the diff guards and recovery points, but generally I've been very pleased. I used International Garage Floor Paint, but it seems to be no longer available in black. I'll need to buy some more soon so I'm interested in which brand SimonR has used 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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