dantastic Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Sorry if this has been asked already but I'm having difficulty figuring out what I should do here. I got an advisory on worn steering drop arm ball joint. I want to sort it out. The part number is RBG000010 Paddock list 2 versions RBG000010 Quality aftermarket ~£5 RBG000010G OEM Manufacturer ~£20 LRDirect have a lot more options ranging from All Makes ~£5 to Genuine LR ~£75. Including two different Britpart offerings, one Britpart branded and one 'OEM branded'. Is there a difference between the two??? This is the kind of component you a) Want to be able to fully trust. b) Only want to change once. So I'm a bit confused what to do. I didn't put this in the Defender forum as this is more of a questions to do with these OEM manufacturers in general and not necessarily only to do with this part. (But I do need help picking the right version of this part!) thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I would recommend a disco drop arm firstly. If not I would recommend bearmach parts as they are consistently good. After that allmakes oem and finally sometimes all there is is britpart oem. I would always avoid britpart basic stuff. Some people love genuine but normally it is not needed unless you are rich. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 This has been done to death Not all parts are created equal, even if they are claimed to be "OEM". And I wish to highlight the previous quote marks... I'm not going to go into it all again but suffice to say if you want genuine buy GENUINE from a dealer. If you must buy from an online store, make sure it's a genuine part that will come in original, unopened LR packaging. And for the part you mention I would be getting the real deal... Edit: Disco drop arm conversion a very good idea. Genuine of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Sorry, didn't realize it's been done to death. In hindsight, I probably should have.... Will probably stay with the Defender arm. I was hoping not having to buy genuine this time. But even Bearmarch come is 2 different versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Change to Disco arm, so much easier to work on, and it is only a normal ball joint to swap out rather than struggle to rebuild something that rusted into one solid lump. Disco drop arm joint change : 10 minutes Defender drop arm joint change : Anything up to 3 days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 You can safely buy Britpart ONLY if the part number ends in 'G', that's all the dealers will buy, and they ain't the £5 versions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 LRDirect have an excellent format with the prices and alternatives if you have the part number. There are a number of alternatives under "Britpart" who distribute parts made by others too. Thus, its not a simple case of don't use anything that may be remotely associated with Britpart because some of the stuff is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Or pm me your address and I will calculate postage for a brand new Defender steering drop arm with ball joint, came on my new steering box but I own a Discovery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I also have a brand new drop arm and joint sat in the workshop. Fresh off a brand new adwest steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 If it seals, turns or is safety critical, buy Genuine. Otherwise don't buy the most expensive, dont buy the cheapest and avoid Britpart if at all possible You often find out that a retailer thinks OEM means "looks the same", and anything without a brand specified will probably be Britpart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 If it seals, turns or is safety critical, buy Genuine. Otherwise don't buy the most expensive, dont buy the cheapest and avoid Britpart if at all possible You often find out that a retailer thinks OEM means "looks the same", and anything without a brand specified will probably be Britpart The mantra I use for machine tooling is along those lines. If a manufacturer doesn't put their name on it, they're obviously not a quality product they want to put their name to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 It looks much easier to just change the joint than the full arm so that's what I'll do. Thanks tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Both methods can either be done in no time, or take HOURS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie64 Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Changing the joint while the arm is still attached to teh car is potentially fatal, it will be the most infuriating job you will ever set out to do and you will end up either a) hanging yourself b) ordingin a new arm with joint fitted i would advise you just order an arm straight away and talk to lots of people about the best way to pull the arm off the box because they are normally really tight P.S i agree disco drop arm conversion is very worth while (makes changing joints in the future much easier) tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Once upon a time OEM meant made by the company that made the original part for Land Rover. But now the term has become corrupted, and just means made by a company that has, at some time, made parts for Land Rover. It may not be the same part as you are considering buying, or if it is, it may not be to the same standards. Buying LR parts has become either a lottery if you don't buy from Land Rover, or expensive if you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 I used the tool that Britpart sell (I know, something useful from that company - I was suprised too!) and changed the joint in situ in about 20 mins. The tool was dirt cheap but if you didn't want to buy one then some appropriately sized sockets and bolt/washers would do the job just as well. I would say that changing the joint in situ is only going to be a nightmare if the thing is so worn that either the cup has been eroded to the stage where the lip used to extract it has dissapeared, or the raised lip around the top that holds the rubber boot on has worn away. Getting the arm off the box has in my experience always involved resorting to the angle grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 I used the tool that Britpart sell (I know, something useful from that company - I was suprised too!) and changed the joint in situ in about 20 mins. The tool was dirt cheap but if you didn't want to buy one then some appropriately sized sockets and bolt/washers would do the job just as well. I would say that changing the joint in situ is only going to be a nightmare if the thing is so worn that either the cup has been eroded to the stage where the lip used to extract it has dissapeared, or the raised lip around the top that holds the rubber boot on has worn away. Getting the arm off the box has in my experience always involved resorting to the angle grinder. I'll second everything you've posted....Yep the drop arm is still waiting to be changed. The Britpart tool made a drop arm change easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I have read about this argument / discussion many times, "Do you buy genuine or aftermarket" Okay, I'm an old age pensioner so there are not too many spare dollars around but when it comes to replacement parts that are essential to the reliable use of my Disco I always go for genuine Land Rover. Two basic reasons, 1.) They are made for the purpose intended with (in most instances) the correct grade of materials. 2.) They carry a warranty. And anyone giving a Land Rover style warranty has in place a bloody good quality control process. If they are not essential, for example, shock absorber rubbers, I can easily go aftermarket. It's like the old adage "if you want oats there are two grades, those before the horse has eaten them and those after, the price before is always higher" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 You would think so, but having had a set of aftermarket shock absorber bushes last less than 15 miles, I wouldn't bother with those. Salutory lesson on low cost no-name box bits learned by somebody I know the other day. Driving over soft ground in a 110, both front swivel housings sheared off simultaneously, he lost both front wheels, and it all stopped rather quickly once he started ditching with the end of the axle. One side was still attached by the halfshaft retained in the CV, but that was all. The other side came right off, wheel, hub, brake disc the works, all went out the side. Didn't hit anything to break it, and no obvious reason for failure. The swivels were changed about two years ago. Fortunately nobody was hurt, the consequences of this happening on our rough gravel roads didn't bear thinking about. Something like that should not break, ever. Not even in an fing great big accident. Bearmach OEM grade branded parts I would trust, as I used to sell them, total no name stuff I would not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Who make the Genuine parts for Land Rover ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 The lowest bidder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Agreed, the lowest bidder -- but those that comply with LR quality control requirements and material specifications. After all LR reputation rides on them so LR is not going to supply parts that they have to warrant if they are below the required quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 I ended up changing the steering arm. Being a bit of a tosser I went for the OEM manufacturer arm from Paddocks. (I was ordering other stuff too from them at the same time...) And the steering wheel is now pointing 90 degrees to the left. The splines are obviously not lined up the same as the original arm. I am in two minds about whether I should send the steering arm back or if I should adjust the steering rod to straighten the steering wheel. Both pigs of jobs. Britpart strikes again. I should have known better. I was told not to... damn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 ...I was told not to... damn... Yes. Yes you were. Don't worry. We've all been stung. Sometimes it takes a stinging to realise your better off with genuine. Better to buy right once, than wrong twice...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Better to buy right once, than wrong twice...... Not to mention the damn thing has already been off once when I thought I had put it on wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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