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Fairey 5000? Drum Winch


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As it says I have one ..............(thanks nige) that I took off my s2 and I have the drop pto to suit lt77

Have intended to put it on my 90 with a disco 200 TDI engine

But there are a number of problems as I see

1 Will have to at least put a hole through the front crossmember to enable the shafting to work. I was intending to drill a fairly large hole through 76/89 dia and weld a pice of tube in it and strenghthen locally will be difficult as cross member it braced

2. It weighs 50 - 100 kg approx with 40m of 10 mm wire on so thinking that will have to upgrade front springs at least although could take the wire off and replace with plasma or similar but have concerns over durability

3. It is quite wide and front will stick out reducing approach angle

4. To reduce the approach angle I could cut the front cross member out all together or move it back a little but power steering box is in the way and will have to work out a way to support rad and intercooler

So would it be worth it ................ I'm beginning to think not might be easyer to get a h14 that looks smaller and lighter and esyer to install!

Positive note is that I have all the bits and pices and can do the fabrication or get anything made

So what do you think...................thanks for any replies in advance I think I've made my mind up but still interested in what you lot think



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I'm a great fan of mechanical winches, i had a Koenig crankshaft driven one on my Series II and it was unstopable...........

The problem i see with the installation you propose is the LT 77 power take off......... It hangs down too far below the gearbox for comfortable ground clearance...........

There was a PTO installed on the 110 i had sent over from your side for whatever reason......anyway i promptly removed it because of the clearance issue.........

I have a Warn 8274 on the 110 and in my opinion that is the next best thing to a mechanical winch...............

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I have done the same: use an lt 77 box with PTO winch, Koenig PTO.

I rotated the PTO out of the way for more ground clearance-it ended up higher than the bottom of the chassis rail. I removed the front crossmember and replaced it by my own version for a better aproach angle.

I saw the same being done by a chap called les I believe, who contributes to this forum a lot. His website explains the full story. well worth reading.

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Here's a few pictures if I've done it right each one should be clicky, by hovering the pointer over and clicking on it and it will open in a new window, just to keep the bandwitdth down for those on dailup :lol:

its prob best if you look at the pics then pm your phone number and I'll explain what I did...

Nige will agree that the most painfull bit is getting the mount for the winch suitably strong........ :ph34r:



















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"Actually, Dave how much might it cost to get yours shipped over, assuming it works and you want to sell it!"

Actually Richard i sold it to a friend from Montreal but i'm not sure if he is using it or not............. since he works for Cirque Du Soleil and is currently on world tour i cannot contact him................

Just a thought how many of you can say you have a friend working for Cirque Du Soleil ? :) :) :)

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Hi Steve,

Some info that may help.

The winch you have S5000 and the H14 are fundementally the same unit, but differ more in terms of dimensions.

The S5000 is generally deeper front to rear, not helped by the arrngement of the rollers on the front which with the 1" box holding the frame together adds anout 3 inches over the H14 which is held together with a flat plate across the two sides, and the rollers /frame doesn't exist, it is instead designed to be fitted to a massive winch bumper and then the rollers added etc, and easier to go Plasma etc should you chose to (you should not really use plasma with roller fairleads)

The csasings are rectangular too, so dimensionally the H14 is smaller, but still big !

Both are driven by a shaft whichs plugs into the bottom passenger side of the LR, again similar but different, the S5000 has a shaft which a U/J goes on to, the H14 has a "T" type shaft which plugs into a coupler.

As such fitting a U/J into a hole in the crossmember is trickeir than the H14s plus, yet this is exactly what I had on the olf hybrid...

I cut HALF of the front crossmember away which had the effect of them allowing the winch to move backwards into the now larger gap, and then I replaced the strength I had removed by welding in a U section channel, with a hole and tube prewelded in out of 6mm plate..

Spring wise its a fairly simple fix, measure spring height now, and see what it drops, also see what is (colurs on the springs) on it now and then chnage spring if you have to, or fit spacers if poundgae is ok but the height is not...seperate job really, it q1st a case of do you fit..

I would say "Yes", although the H14 would be an easier and neater installation, but I am a fan of the Superwinch Mechancial and Hydrauilic units, they seldom are beaten in a pulling situation !



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If it helps I still have the front section of Niges old chassis with cross member etc, I could post a photo if you like. My memory is that this one is a range rover front. I have two fairey winches front and rear you could think about mounting yours under the floor in the back.

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Nige lwt thanks for the info looks like what ever I going to do its going to be alot of work! and time that I'm not going to have ..................... buying a house that needs alot of work at the moment

Would be interested in photos of your fairey set up front and rear

I think that I'll leave it to next year if a H14 comes up cheap maybe I'll get it or install the fairey

Cheers anyway


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Its a long story, but basically the PTO has a flange facing back through a hole in the crossmember, this is standard propshaft size. This gives you a sliding joint, I machined down the rear propshaft at the sliding joint and bored this to take the round bar 3/4 inch for the shafts. Two UJ's and a couple of phospher bronze bearings to take me to the winch and hey presto.

This all means the winch runs backwards so I rewound the cable the other way, not ideal but seems OK. It may be possible to change the output from the winch, I'd like to see it if possible, or as I initially did run the winch with reverse gear in and forward gears out.

The winch works well and would pull a house down. Can't post now til Monday as I'm off to Goodwood for four days.

Nige T

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