De Ranged Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I'm planing on building one of these up... new bearings, seal, ARB and pegging I need to know which is the better to do the work on Option 1 SIIa Or option 2 a SIII (this is the same as the donor diff nugget for the ARB, but it appears it will fit either) Just a note I have spares of both, and my steering stabilizer is going to go onto the drag link to lift it up a bit Cheers Reece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Salisbury is by far the strongest axle on a series. Absolute murder to rebuild, but then you probably won't need to. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 lol I know thats why I have gone to such lengths to run a Sulsbury in the rear problem is they don't come in a front option so I need to set up one of these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I'd been told the earlier ones have better oiling, but no idea on actual strength... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 OK Both of what you have above are "Imperial Diffs". The ARB is designed with the metric Casing in mind, but will fit the earlier imperial casing with RTC2726 bearings vs the normal RTC3095. Sdaly the imperial carier bearings are spendier lol !As to the 2 x casings neither is better, the 1st is a earlier casing with the ali nose cone which has the additional arseness of having special shims, so I would use the 2nd casing. Upgrade the 4 x carrier bolts to allen bolts, the bolts on these are NOT metric and are very low grade and prone to streching, also use FTC5150 on the CW&P The ARB will place the diff and shafts under much more starian, you really need to upgrade the shafts to say Ashcrofts etc, and also the 4.7:1 CW&P is even weaker than the Std 3.54, so yes pegging is a good idea ! Try to pick a unit where the CW&P is in good condition, as it you start swopping CW&Ps and casings you need to reset the pinion height and preload as well as backlash, and for that you need special tools and loads of shims to get it right which costs a fortune !. Sticking with the pinion in the casing, maybe changing the seal, and most likley the flange, and retorquing to around 80-90 ft lbs means you not having to sort out height and preload, although they will prob not be 100% due to wear etc, its a better risk to take than to go blindly swapping bits around as you WILL NOT get it anywhere near right ! Also use the later (genuine LR) Seal protector LR017552. Lastly although the imperial casings can be a bit more spendy to sort, pegging any casing use the ealry imperial or metri c ones vs the later flat cap type. The ones with the 2 x lock wings are both a stronger unit and wel better due to the composition of the casting structure. <spam mode on > Pegged casing video : </spam mode off >is NOT a DIY job with a hobby mig ! you have to get the positioning spot on to be totally effective and tig to get it to weld properly. Use timken bearing, corteco seals So, if Diff No 2 seems to have good CW&P go with that Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Thanks for the info That vid was cool.... some amazing work I'm not going that flash I was going to just weld a bit of an old diff nugget rim using a high nickle arc rod, with the pre and post heat... same deal as welding cast iron.... if it works all good I'll do the rest on the mill Like that tip of the epoxy that is a very clever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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