Tip: D2 Auto ATF Cooler Pipes

[Shackleton]

For anyone who might have had the rubber section of the ATF cooler pipes on a D2 auto let go;

The steel sections on mine were fine but the rubber ends were perished. The swage on the cooler side of the feed pipe had already let go and I'd taken the swage off and double jubilee clipped the rubber pipe back onto the cooler instead. I'd noticed at the time (maybe 4 months ago) that the pipe was badly perished but never got around to replacing it. What I wanted to do was get some new hydraulic pipe and then tackle the job all at once, rather than have to strip the car to get the pipe, to get the dimensions so I could spec the replacement. But I couldn't find a definitive answer about the inner diameter of the pipe.

It's 12mm or 1/2"

It'll be slightly tighter on the cooler end as that pipe is a little bigger, but it'll go on with a smear of ATF as lube.

I paid €15 for more hydraulic pipe than I needed for both pipes, and four stainless jubilee clips. Much better than the £100+ for the full pipes.

HTH someone

George

EDIT: Check your pipes! Especially the one on the right of the engine. If it lets go it'll leave you stranded, make a proper mess of your bay and you'll be dripping ATF out of your chassis for a week after repair. Plus you'll have that horrible hot smell of burning oil every time you get out of the car.

[Boydie]

After my Disco split the oil cooler on the Anne Beadell track - it boasts the worlds worst corrugations for well over 780 kilometres - I make it a point of carrying the bypass connection of a R380 to bypass the oil cooler and hoses should it ever happen again and a section of hydraulic hose and clamps. As a result of that little incident I replaced the very expensive Ashcroft ZF4HP22/24 with a R380 5 speed manual, - I can fix a manual, an auto is beyond my mechanical ability.