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rover axle "shaving" the axle casing.


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I am working on the lightweight axles at the moment, preparing them for zinc spraying and powercoating. As I was looking at them, trial fitted with the cheapo diff guards I bought form Paddocks on ebay, (very sturdy, bit crude, need more rust prevention) I thought to my self, that drain sump take 1/2 inch of ground clearance.

So, I think I should move the sump around out of the way of the ground.

Anyone done this before, or are there any "gotchas"?



PS, for a tenner each delivered I think the cheapo diff guards are good value.

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Most of the shaves I do I set up one of the lower diff studs as a drain... I drill right through and replace the stud with a bolt

My theory is that the only time your cracking the drain without removing the head is to check for water..... any other time, service, odd running or outright failure your going to pull it to check and clean so I tend to remove the factory drain when I shave

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Na just tap the thread right through there is plenty of meat in the support ring.... also I like to use 10mm for the base of the diff when I shave so there is no room for a nut, often I'll have to grind a little channel into the 10mm plate so the inside end of the bolt hole still has good access for the oil (or water lol) to drain out

After tea I'll see if I can find some pic's to explain it better lol

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Do you replace the bottom section of the casing with a strip of 10mm flat?

Then align your groove on the inside with a former stud hole?

That is a strong solution. All I had in mind as to use a circular saw to cut out the drain, and do a similar cut around the casing a bit and swap the two over. It would look sort of original, and increase clearance a bit.

When I get to it I'll post up pictures.

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I've done a couple of rover axles now 1 from an old RRC (in the photos) and the other from a Disco1

Arghhh I sort of do a bit more than a flat piece of plate lol Oh and for the books learned all this doing toyota stuff, lost count of the number of axles I've shaved lol I was kinda known for it



The reason for the angled cut is the diff is rotated up towards the transfercase


This shows the Crown wheel portion of the jig (don't do this with out a diff or jig like this or the warpage will munt your housing), notice I've left the diff cover in place this is also to limit warpage, I shave the axle first then the diff cover


It doesn't look like much and really isn't compared with the hilux shaves, on the flat bottom rover housing I only gained about 10-12mm


This photo shows the diff cover after it was cut away.... it also shows some of the studs with the rover they are close enough the inside weld wanted to weld the studs


All done

To be honest the gain isn't worth the effort but it's like alot of the things I do on my trucks its more because I can than any sensible reason lol

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That's fine job! More than I'm going to do, to be honest, but I can't leave it the way it is, as it looks just, well wrong, now.

Maybe week after next, as I'm busy cladding the workshop today, other stuff tomorrow, and I'm off to an airshow next weekend (theres's going to be a flying Battle of Britain Hawker Hurricane!).


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Weren't later LR axles like this, flat bottomed with the drain at the side?

Not Lightweight axles I admit.


Yes the post 1980 axles, much better design with the flat bottom, 1/2" ratchet drive plug, and thicker axle tubes without the rust prone reinforcing.

I have a pair from a 1981 lightweight that still have the old style driveshaft oil seal so presumably from the switch over period.

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however the diff pans were reduced in thickness when they went to coil axles. a series diff without any guard can take a fair beating and shrug it off no worries, sadly, the same can't be said for a later diff pan!

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Well. I'm going to get these two lightweight axles "adjusted" and I'll post up as I go. It'll be a while, as I'm trying to focus on the workshop build. I'm getting the diffs pegged and LSDs fitted (thanks Nige) and they'll be powercoated, and have diff pan guards too.

Full sympathetic modifications.


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Thats a professional chill blasting, then aqua Blasted and then ultrasonics - tis clean

The series casing outside mouldings are sligghtly different to Metric casings, so have had to make one plate from scratch the other modded, the top plate is OK :D


Stupid Plan of the day was to TIG Them up ...



well workshops at 42 Degrees ..

..the grinding dust seems to have stuck to my sweat,

and the headband of the helment is soaked to the point of dripping..


Stupid Idea No 2 is to finish casing No 1 before I pass out, I'll save the Casing NO 2 for tomm when Steve is here, he will be so gratefull


Bollox to this ....2.45...having a beer sod Casing No 2 today

say Hi to your Casing No 1 - just needs the machining now, and my casing 216 :D



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Mad, they say, when I insist on having air-conditioning in the workshop.

Well done for welding in this heat. But I'm in no rush so please don't risk injury on my account.

I'm picking up the rims from the shot blast place tomorrow (yay!). I feel that the project is moving at last.


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I have had a similarly sweaty day in the workshop, trying to drill out td5 manifold studs when you have a steady stream of sweat pouring of the end of your abnormaly large nose is quite uncomfortable. Welding in this heat (I only weled a few nuts onto snapped studs) was like you say. A little warm. I chose the quad bike as my mode of transport to the bolt shop earlier just so I could cool down!

Not that I am complaining! Lovely day

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