Jump to content

Welding Trolley


Recommended Posts

.... Don't work with aluminium either, but if you weld aluminium with that welder I'll buy you a six pack of beer...(I had one)

Should work on stainless though containing iron...

I have one of the Australian yellow clamps for clamping and welding at fixed angles and it comes with a bolt hole to act as a clamp they aren't cheap though, but the red ones are not quiet square and can end up like a hedgehog with iron filings over time that are a pia to clear the yellow ones you can turn off and the filings just drop or wipe off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going back to the welder, I could not get on with it, common denominator being me (I also had an early one), there are various improvements modifications and upgrades that are discussed on the uk mig welding forum with the Clarke 150 welder, and I briefly added a capacitor bank and looked at adding a separate pulse width modulation wire feed speed controller (£10 eBay something like that) to mine but realised I could either keep playing with it or get an idiots one that required no more thought or relearning every time I pick it up to reset wire speed and tune it to what I was welding (semi synergic)

Still got the capacitors and pwm controller sat there ... Future project?

I compared it to the Millar or Lincoln cricket which is a very similar welder, circuit and outputwise, but with the addition of a capacitor to improve weld arc stability and there is a good detailed manual on the net with component values

Like I said it was more than likley me as I've seen others do good welds with the Clarke range of welders. I now have no probs whatsoever (provided I turn the gas on instead of turning it off having forgotten to turn it off from the last time I used it... Muppet!) And scratching head with weld porosity that I've never had before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the worst guff ive ever made gas wise is forgetting to switch the argon on whilst welding alu and then wondering why the weld pool keeps disappearing leaving a bloody great hole :lol:

...chasing the hole... been there done that ... haha

miller cricket manual ... (in case anyone is interested in welder mod ideas or building a simple mig welder [transformer, diodes, capacitor(s) and wiper motor required + PWM controller + all important free time]

load of info on here for modifications (although I'd not recommend them unless you're interested & bored, hence it's only because I noted them above).

One improvement I did to mine was fitting a wire liner, that worked a treat (not for aluminium though... but if you weld that well again 6 pack of beer waiting for you!), now that did improve the weld quality tremendously... and got rid of the carp black liner that it came with.

but the wire feed knob remained ... well too sensitive for me... and when I needed it I had to find a scratty bit of paper with the best settings that I found from last time that worked for me

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're looking to buy one - don't buy the Axminster one!! It's carp!!

I have an Axminster 4x6 bandsaw similar to the above - and it's great! Out of the box i was much better set up than my previous Clarke one (which was never quite right despite having all the bearings replaces & re-aligned).

I'd buy another Axminster saw. The portable ones are a different kettle of fish however.

If you're buying blades, go for an M42 Bi-Metal Vari-Pitch blade.

http://www.justbandsawblades.co.uk/product/0000-0813/Custom-Length-x-12quot-x-025quot-Hakansson-M42-Bimetal/

I have mine made 1650mm long (the standard is 1638mm which I found a bit tight) 0.025" thick 10/14 TPI. I like the Hakansson blades the best - they seem to last the longest anyway.

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robert!

Since I read your post about difficulties welding with the clarke's my wire won't stop jamming, I can't get the settings right, and my welding has gone to ship !

Lol

Realistically though I've changed to 0.8 - using a different gas - and it's been a while. Prior to that I was welding just fine how it was set up.

I think I need to put some time aside for laying down a load of beads to get myself dialled in. I'm getting more penetration with the 0.8 it seems - so it's thrown the settings I had kept track of.

I've always found my wire speeds quite a bit lower than the settings say it should be - but I think that's simply down to the wire running faster than it should at those lower numbers on the scale.

So I tend to set the voltage settings and then hold the torch on a piece of the steel - and turn the dial until it sounds like it's sizzling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...sorry...

Check your wire feed sliprate. The best way that I've seen to set it up is frofro m my current welders manual (search for esab c200i manual on Google) can't post links

Basically if you hold the torch head to an object (non metallic) and press the trigger it should slip when pressing against the object, but then when you do it say 2 inches away from the object, the wire should feed and curve past the object.

Hope it helps...

Sorry

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy