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Thinking of a Wolf ambulance....

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i'm 3800 so no body would cover me although to be honest they never asked me. AA won;t cover vehicles at 3800 nor ones with "electricals" in the back.

So no i'm not with them for breakdown but i will ask next time.

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They've sorted me with a 'Motor Home' policy now for another £25 that accepts the sizes.

Do you think you'll ever use the 3800kgs? Its really easy to downplate, might make some things easier in the future? The DVLA aren't interested like they used to be and you can buy a new genuine parts VIN plate stamped as required for about £35.

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They've sorted me with a 'Motor Home' policy now for another £25 that accepts the sizes.

Do you think you'll ever use the 3800kgs? Its really easy to downplate, might make some things easier in the future? The DVLA aren't interested like they used to be and you can buy a new genuine parts VIN plate stamped as required for about £35.

no it won't use the 3800 but its cheaper road tax as a camper so it stayed and when travelling i will downplate. That way i will also have a spare V5C to "loose". The tolls will be a killer if i do not downplate. I left it as was as i do not know how heavy it will be in the end so its just a precaution at the moment. The ultimate aim is to change to as low as i can. Even 3500 is a problem in some places.

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BTW a bit of an update. I removed the EGR and fitted a MadMan EMS2. I'll post come photos but they will also be on the FaceBook Overlandbirds page and on the blog. nothing more happened to the insides. The bed is only patrially finished but functional. Nothing else done yet. Want to get all the electrics done but as it happens condenation is by all acounts a nightmare so i'm goign to carpet the back and might fit rubber flooring.

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Hey Neill, (guy, grey high top)

I used that doublesided foil bubblewrap, as thats what all the t4/t5 boys seem to use.

I've since heard its not ideal though, professional HVAC installers have been moaning online that it doesn't meet the insulation (different to reflective..?) properties unless it is fitted with an air gap, and as its used as a wrap with no air gap it is not actually delivering the minimum required legal insulation ... blahblah that the yanks need.

long story short if i was doing my truck again i might look for something better (i also used closed cell foam as a sandwich then topped the lot with veltrim van carpet and 4 way stretch liner carpet off ebay).

But yours might be insulated already and you might just carpet?

The only thing that bothers me about that is that the carpet is very porous and you can see through it so might not completely cover any cold surfaces to stop condensation.

boring reply complete.


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Hi Guy....

yes the walls are foam filled but skinned Aluminium so will be a very cold surface. I was thinking Automotive carpet or the stretch stuff but as you say the stretch is thin. The proper auto carpet might be better and the one that's backed. But it will add a lot of weight. I was wondering about carpet tiles but again VERY heavy but can be done progressively.

I might need to remove everything already done to carpet it.

On the plus side i got myself a CSW dashboard trim today for beer tokens so my Mud Console will now fit correctly. The Military dash has no grey plastic cover so the console was left with big gaps. I got one from a local guy and he asked for nothing for it so I gave him £10. They are over £100 new and trim bits are hard to get second hand.

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maybe you could get away with the thin but dense grey foam underlay thats folder rather than rolled, from b and q (not the clear foam laminate underlay that is cheap).

Then put van carpet over it, both of those materials are really easy to work with especially around corners/shapes. just means a load more high temp spray glue (cheapest i found was off ebay, think it was 12 tins for 40 quid). But, the upholstery guy over the road says he only uses high temp glue on exterior panels like ceiling and single skin side panels. Maybe if the sun isn't going to be able to heat your inner ally skin through the foam you could get away with the cheaper spray glue.

I do wonder whether i should have used something wipe-clean rather than carpet considering how messy i can be when cooking :S

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I'm doing round the cooker with Stainless so if that attracts all the humidity I'm laughing. I'll have to have a look around. I might as Errol to see what he uses. He the guy that did lizzybus.

I'll take a look in B&Q. I know what you mean though as I use that folded stuff in the house with fibreboard on top.


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  • 3 months later...

Hi I'm new to this forum so please bear with me , couple of questions about my 130 battlefield ambulance I have just bought from withams

1.on dash there is an orange light with 24 v symbol which is sometimes flashing and beeping , any ideas , is it an indicator that voltage is low?

2. Probably related but power distribution panel in ambulance body has a red light constantly on beside the 12 v socket , there are a row of circuit breakers which are all in and activated how can I trip the one for the 12 v socket which is draining the batteries. when I received the vehicle these circuit breakers were all tripped and nothing working in rear body I pushed them in and all lights , fans ect working .

Any advice about this and operation of Night heater greatly appreciated


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Run engine device ORANGE LIGHT
46 A run engine device is mounted on a double relay bracket attached to thedash behind the fascia.
47 The run engine device senses low battery voltage and automatically operates the buzzer and 24V warning light to advise of the necessity to run the engine. This occurs when the battery voltage drops below 24.4 volts, due to extended use with the engine not running. The warning light illuminates and the buzzer sounds intermittently.

45 There are five circuit breakers contained in the Distribution/Control box in the ambulance compartment. These breakers protect the ambulance compartment circuits as follows.
45.1 CB1 - Heater
45.2 CB2 - Blowers
45.3 CB3 - 12 volt socket
45.4 CB4 - Lights
45.5 CB5 - 24 volt sockets

The heater is a Eberspacher DL5C the manual is easily obtained via google and the internet.

If the unit is locked out you will need to reset it. This is not easy to do and requires significant thought before doing so. The reason for the lockout needs to be ascertained first or you can destroy the heater. What exactly is it doing ?

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Thanks that's great info and good to know , any idea how to trip / isolate CB3 as advised, the buttons do not pop out if pushed in or twist .

There is obviously an idiot switch somewhere or just me being the idiot!

The heater will blow cold with no sign of ignition Ill download a copy of manual and see how I get on.

Thanks once again

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with regards to the heater. Is your tank full(ish) if its nearly empty it will not pull up fuel. Is its blowing cold its almost certainly locked out completely. Now this is a problem. You try 5 times and it doesn't start and it locks it out permanently. See the massive sticker that says this next to the panel? You've flicked it on and off repeatedly haven't you.....very bad.

If there's a fault you should find out what it is but that means taking the entire thing to a dealer or buying a display and replacing the nob with a display........or risky reset it not knowing if you might terminally break the unit. Its up to you as i can tell you the risky reset procedure but its risky. Have i said that enough.

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this is the risky reset.

I cannot stress enough that if you have a real issue you will destroy your heater repeated trying this. Maybe only once.

Take off the panel (6 screws) using the nob turn on the unit on and short out the indicated connections for the duration shown. You will have either an R3 or R4 probably. You can confirm this by removing the lids and checking the stickers/etchings on the units and googling. If you are lucky the green light will flash the blink code for no fuel or something minor. Switch it off and wait till it completely stops, switch off the fuse and back on. The switch it back on and wait few seconds, switch on via nob and wait. Make sure you have fuel in the tank! You will hear the priming pump ticking loudly if it is empty of fuel. It will suddenly quiet down if it gets fuel. No ticking then pump is broken. It will start after a couple of minutes if it ever is going to.


Buy a display....think its the 801 you need.


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  • 1 month later...

Hi All

Does anyone know how Witams disable the siren ? the silver box above drivers compartment is there and wired up the siren is wired cant see any fuses or in line relays or anything missing.

I have managed to remove the stretchers and built in two rock and roll beds which work well.

Next job is a water storage tank which will fit sitting on chassis accessed through jerry can holders ! made for it.

Going to mount gas cooker and sink on swing down arms left over from stretchers

also looking to fit an opening sun roof above drivers compartment to give some light and ventilation

EGR blanking plate tomorrows job as she needs all the help she can get me thinks

Gave her a good run up motorway and blew out some cobwebs now starts and runs without smoke first thing so well worth it

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Thx Mark

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Yes they disable the siren. To operate i preume you know you flick the switch and press the horn as it has three tone cycles. Each selected by pressing the horn again.

Its VERY loud so stick some rags in the horn.

There is a fuse and relay removed to disable. If you are lucky they followed the manual and removed only the fuse affixed with blue tape behind the 6 way light switch.

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they'd written the mileage on the top of the rad in paint so i'm pretty confident of the mileage if not the date. It had been done. However i will be doing it again on the full major service i will do.

Thats going to be at least, Pads, hub bearings, bushes all, belts all, hoses all, bulbs all, UJs, top link ball, shocks all, tyres all, hub caps, swivel seals, hub seals, water pump, fuel pump, fiters all, oils all...i'm not sure i've missed anything off from memory but I will do a FULL service before i go anywhere out of UK. That then gives me a firm baseline to do the normal services. A lot of money but as someone on here once said. Better here than the side of the road in Africa.........relating to a power steering pump but none the less still valid.

when was the cambelt last changed?

i assumed mine would have been serviced to the book,

just in case I had it swapped, it was the original 18 yr old one ...............

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Hi everyone.

I recently got a Wolf/Ambulance from Witham. Unbelievably well maintained. I have yet to find anything that's broken. Waiting for motor caravan registration from Swansea. Does anyone have a good floorplan/design for a camper conversion. Newbie? how many seats have you installed in the back and how?

Has anyone had an inspection from the DVLA?

Cant wait to go on my first trip...

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Welcome Henry!

We've had no interaction with the DVLA (and no problems travelling abroad so far), you can see our layout (kitchen, bed, bathroom) in our build thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89916

it's currently undergoing a slight re-jig although the floor plan is staying the same.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Bit of an update on the progress so far.

  • Lined the insides. post-19188-0-05713500-1467446874_thumb.jpg
  • Cut the board and used a router to cover raised mounts etc. 9mm is enough.post-19188-0-62402900-1467447558_thumb.jpg
  • Pic of the roof thickness for those that might need to know.post-19188-0-29528700-1467447371_thumb.jpg
  • New Eberspacher air intake comes from the front cab and not from the back meaning fresher air under normal operation and we can probably seal the external vents and use the under windscreen vents instead. Note its all been carpetted.post-19188-0-05747800-1467447215_thumb.jpg
  • Some roof lights fitted. 20mins to fit the second one!post-19188-0-01294900-1467447316_thumb.jpg
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