xychix Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 I've fitted my Volvo UP28 vacuum pump to give my series III 109 2.25di engine some more air. The difference is remarkable (which likely means the air intake vacuum valve wasn't adjusted properly). The engine clearly gets more are, slopes where I had to go back to 3rd now can be taken in 4th. The valve isn't removed yet but for now kept open with a steel wire. Braking is connected to the wire that powers the braking lights, that steers a relay that in it's turn switches on a 35A fused hot wire to the pump. Both pump and relay have gotten fresh and strong earthings as I don't want to loose brakes due to a famous bad earth I've placed the pump at the location of the wiper washer reservoir os that was missing and the washer pump is broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Hi xychix, What this all about? Is it an electric vacuum pump that replaces the clockwork vacuum and coffee can supply for the brakes? Meaning that the air intake is now unrestricted? Photos, information and general idea very much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Hi xychix, What this all about? Is it an electric vacuum pump that replaces the clockwork vacuum and coffee can supply for the brakes? Meaning that the air intake is now unrestricted? Photos, information and general idea very much appreciated! I'll make some foto's later today and describe (maybe even draw out) the wiring. And YES, electric vacuum pump UP28 means air intake is only restricted by my oil bath filter now, K&N should help a bit more. New fuel filters and offcourse the oil that has fallen out should make this a happy 2.25di It does give 'some' coffee to the brake pressures but don't expect much better braking just slightly lighter. The main gain is 'air' for the engine. Meaning also less smoke at MOT (in France = CT) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Can I suggest you keep the oil bath? It is very free-flowing and is better at cleaning the air than the K&N type filters, plus you don't need to worry about the filter being clogged with oil mist from the breather. Oil bath filters are self-cleaning, just needing the sediment removed on the service schedule, but don't gradually get dirty and clogged like element filters. I only have a K&N because I have a Tdi and it is prone to soggying the paper filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Can I suggest you keep the oil bath? It is very free-flowing and is better at cleaning the air than the K&N type filters, plus you don't need to worry about the filter being clogged with oil mist from the breather. Oil bath filters are self-cleaning, just needing the sediment removed on the service schedule, but don't gradually get dirty and clogged like element filters. I only have a K&N because I have a Tdi and it is prone to soggying the paper filter. Will do for now. First see what I can win with new fuel filters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Here a album with some pictures . Took power from the unfused end of fuse 6 (where the big brown wire comes in). Fused it myself currently 30 Amps, should be more than enough, planning to run the 12V socket on this same fuse. The previous owner ran a wire unfused and unprotected to the battery. As you can imagine.... that had to go! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dibbs1 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 On 7/12/2015 at 7:30 AM, xychix said: I've fitted my Volvo UP28 vacuum pump to give my series III 109 2.25di engine some more air. The difference is remarkable (which likely means the air intake vacuum valve wasn't adjusted properly). The engine clearly gets more are, slopes where I had to go back to 3rd now can be taken in 4th. The valve isn't removed yet but for now kept open with a steel wire. Braking is connected to the wire that powers the braking lights, that steers a relay that in it's turn switches on a 35A fused hot wire to the pump. Both pump and relay have gotten fresh and strong earthings as I don't want to loose brakes due to a famous bad earth I've placed the pump at the location of the wiper washer reservoir os that was missing and the washer pump is broken. Is there a chance that I too could have a copy of your wiring diagram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) On 3/7/2020 at 10:47 AM, Dibbs1 said: Is there a chance that I too could have a copy of your wiring diagram? there's an assumption I made a wiring diagram.... let me check.. nope. I'll dive in the car and draw one up. In my car there is a switch behind brake pedal, that carries a positive lead and a switched positive lead to illuminate stop lights.I tapped into the switched positive lead (turns 12V when brake pedal is touched). used this lead to activate a relay, offcourse the other leg of the relay steering part is to ground. Now we have a steered relay with 2 open legs. 1 will be connected to a 30A fuse and then behind that to 12V+, either battery terminal or other strong + wire. The other end of the relay is now switched positive (up to 30A), run that wire to the + of the hella pump and the - to earth. Don't have a scanner at hand to draw this out. If I can find the energy tonight I'll find some online tool to make schematics. For now I'll be making a short recording on my smoking diesel in order to ask the experts where to open up stuff (never opened any parts other than air filter in engine bay before, other topic on that later) Edited March 18, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Some Volvos, and/or Jags have these. made by Hella. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) Like these... Edited March 21, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Netjes !! Looks good - I have the same idea for the 110... ...and an electric fuel lift pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) There's ways of fitting this such that you're using the pump to top-off on engine vacuum, rather than firing the pump every time. Volvo part 30645383, there's others... Edited March 21, 2020 by Landrover17H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 On 3/21/2020 at 12:44 PM, Landrover17H said: Like these... ues thats the one!, mine came without the bracket but that was an easy fix with some sheet metal. mine is hovering above the dipstick to the other side of the panel where the vacuum tank lives. Considering removing the vacuum tank an going on 'live' vacuum (unbuffered) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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