Jump to content

Painting a galvanised bumper properly!


Recommended Posts

Recently bought an ex electricity board winch kit, with a Ramsey electric winch and a fairly hefty galvanised bumper. I've also ordered some rock/tree sliders from Mill Services that will come galvanised. The rest of the Landy is yellow (ex AA) and black, so a big lump of galv on the front and sides will look fairly out of place and I would like to have them in black.

My first thought was to get it all powdercoated but I'm having second thoughts about this due to the difficulty in touching it up after off road damage. I originally decided I didn't want to paint it based on my experience of a single coat of Hammerite (no primer) on the original galv bumper that flaked off as soon as it touched anything. I'm starting to think painting the whole lot properly might be the best idea, but not sure on what sort of paint would be best.

I have a couple of tins of micaceous iron oxide paint (undercoat and top coat) but in grey, as far as I know the undercoat is alright for direct onto galv but what top coat should I use with it? Micaceous doesn't give the best sort of finish...

Also I'm having trouble removing some of the 9 years of carp that are well stuck on behind the bumper, I've lightly attacked it with a wire brush attachment on a drill, given it a good go with the jet wash and a good dose of jizer to no avail. I didn't want to give it too much of an attack with the wire brush, is there anything else anyone can recommend to get the carp off?

Many thanks in advance!

th_DSC_0523_zpsyudtqbyx.jpgth_DSC_0522_zps7jdz2kmh.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made the mistake of powder coating galv rock sliders and have been disappointed how weak the finish has been.

On my galv chassis I've just treated the gear crossmember with mordant solution, primed and then painted which according to what everyone on the internet says, is the way to go.

Roller painting rustoleum paint has made a good looking and thick finish although I'm too early on to tell you first hand how it will last.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as you have said in your original post, old galv shouldn't need t-wash, you would be OK with an etch prime and top coat.

you could use your base coat and top coat then flat it off and apply a 1K poly color coat which should be a nice finish that you can touch up if (when) it sustains damage.

(EDIT) You probably already know but micaceous iron oxide paint is used on many thousands of structural steel works throughout the world - we paint towers with it and dont need to touch them for ten years. My brother in law painted his Ifor trailer which is always outside at a coastal location with it maybe twenty years ago. Applied straight onto rusty steel and its only just breaking through now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My top tip is to use Zinc Phosphate primer on to the Galvanized surface - then any paint you like on top. Zinc Phosphate sticks to Zinc very well - particularly if you rub it down & clean it before priming.

My personal favorite for top coat is Floor Paint. If you consider what it has to survive on a floor - something like a bumper is an easy life for it. I've also recently tried Skip & Scaffold paint which appears very similar to floor paint. I cannot (yet) say how long it lasts though.

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy