Jump to content

Door questions...


Anderzander

Recommended Posts

i delved into my drivers door the other day to trace a break in the Electric windows - that's done but I wondered if the good folk here could help me with a couple of other thing I've uncovered to do....

AFB8D3E1-8753-46DA-8C47-25AD33EEDDDD.jpg

1.

There was rust along the bottom rail - but it all turned out to be a thin panel that seems to have been spot welded onto the bottom rail - I'm assuming it's part of the moisture barrier... After cleaning the rust off with my grinder's new wire wheel attachment (should have got one ages ago !) the plan is to grind the welds out and remove the remains of the panel...

What I was think of was buying a bit of galvanised sheet and (after rust proofing) using an adhesive to bond it to the frame. Would this be worthwhile ? And would one of the sikaflex products be appropriate ?

2.

A really ignorant question - but the panel that bolts on and mounts the window mechanism has cracked through near the lock button. I plan to clean it back to metal and run a bead of weld on it........ Is it safe to do with the glass still in the door ?

3.

The adhesive that held the polythene moisture barrier on is no longer sticky and I'll probably need to cut a new sheet - what could I use to stick it on again ? Is it some sort of mastic ?

Any help or suggestions gratefully received !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1, yes 255fc would be fine, and useful for other LR purposes

2, if you're careful yes, cover the glass with something leather (welding apron) or some thick wet rags to protect it from weld spatter

3, just tape it on with duct tape. If you are really keen buy a pot of dumdum, it's pretty similar to what was on there before

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I could do that - I guess I could spot weld it too, I was thinking bonding it would mean both surfaces could be painted and remain unbroken. I was also aware that there is a whole world of adhesives I've never tried.

A further use for me might be that I have some M6 holes on my wings from chequer plate - I thought I could bond a small ally disc under it and then fill on top of it it and paint it.... Or try some of those hs2000 rod thingies ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A further use for me might be that I have some M6 holes on my wings from chequer plate - I thought I could bond a small ally disc under it and then fill on top of it it and paint it.... Or try some of those hs2000 rod thingies ..

Whilst you can do this the filler will eventually crack around the hole due to the metal moving at a different rate to the filler. I'm sorry to say the only way to fix the holes permanently is to weld them up.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be afraid of the lock rods, they are likely the easiest part of a simple job :)

I *think* you can get the glass out of the aperture if you take out the seals and mouldings, but that sounds like a faff

BTW the cracking you have discovered is fairly common on push button doors. If you just weld the crack you will probably find it has cracked next to the weld when you next have it stripped. It's worth drilling the crack at its terminus if its not all the way through yet, then welding it fully, dressing the weld back slightly and over playing with a little fillet plate to put some strength in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy