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Another td5 fuel pressure regulator thread....


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Ok. I'm in the process of doing a few niggley jobs on the 110 so that I can sell it on as close to a mechanically sound vehicle as possible. Commendable, no?

There is a weepy little drip of diesel which I think we can safely assume is from the fpr, and I'm wondering whether to replace or repair.

There seem to be some fairly comprehensive rebuild kits on ebay with the diaphragm, o rings and gaskets. Is rebuilding a reliable method of repair (let's say I have the mechanical ability and tools available ) or is a replacement a better job?

I've read s lot about the blue box offerings being hopeless, so which if any of the non genuine items are worth their salt?

Thanks all.

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Ah,but I have the hands of a pianist and the patience of a saint.

One or more of those statements may be a lie.

Did you replace the part or use a seal kit?

I've actually missed spannering believe it or not. I'm looking forward to having something inanimate to swear at again.

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Actually getting to the TD5 FPR is a contortionist's nightmare, even if you have the right tools ( a fistful of different-length quarter-inch-drive extensions and a bucketful of wobble-joints/flexible-driveshafts ): a LR-competent garage will charge an hour's labour. Some will pull the inlet-manifold for faster ease of access.

Given the hassle of doing the job, ask yourself "Do I want to use blue-box parts and be guaranteed to be doing this again in a few months, or do I spring the extra £50 for genuine parts and know it's sorted for the next ten years" ??

Given that the hassle/effort/vehicle-off-road-time is the same for both options I'll always spend the extra £50 for genuine parts and know the job's not going to come back and keep me from pub-time in the future.

Whatever you do, make sure the little filter-gauze between the FPR and the head gets changed: this can get blocked if a TD5 has had injector copper-washer issues and/or 'black sludge' in the fuel-tank. The filter's a few pence - getting at it if it blocks is expensive!

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Actually getting to the TD5 FPR is a contortionist's nightmare, even if you have the right tools ( a fistful of different-length quarter-inch-drive extensions and a bucketful of wobble-joints/flexible-driveshafts ): a LR-competent garage will charge an hour's labour. Some will pull the inlet-manifold for faster ease of access.

Given the hassle of doing the job, ask yourself "Do I want to use blue-box parts and be guaranteed to be doing this again in a few months, or do I spring the extra £50 for genuine parts and know it's sorted for the next ten years" ??

Given that the hassle/effort/vehicle-off-road-time is the same for both options I'll always spend the extra £50 for genuine parts and know the job's not going to come back and keep me from pub-time in the future.

Whatever you do, make sure the little filter-gauze between the FPR and the head gets changed: this can get blocked if a TD5 has had injector copper-washer issues and/or 'black sludge' in the fuel-tank. The filter's a few pence - getting at it if it blocks is expensive!

If you mean MAE100010, even the britpart version is more than a few pence! Cheapest I could find was something like £50 plus vat from most places.

Ronnie, I went for genuine when I did the one on the d2, the repair kits might be fine, but I share Tanuki's sentiment above and hope I won't have to touch it for some time.

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So buy the whole shebang (genuine) and fit it and forget it.

I hate to think I'll be doing an awkward job purely for the benefit of the new owner, but I guess it's a selling point and peace of mind for me as a seller.

I do really like to feel the benefit of tricky tasks for a while at least!

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easy - three 10mm bolts - - remove the engine bracket first and also the air intake hose to the left of that.. then what I did was disconnect the green push fit fuel pipe into the device. pull the electric plug off, then I undid the two 14mm nuts holding the other two pipes in place. then remove the three 10mm bolts. it would take approx. 20/30mins now I reckon. I swaped the valve itself only as the rest of it can not faulter as its just a cast bit of ali. unless its cracked I would keep it and just replace the valve and the seals of the other pipe work. just do not over tighten the 14mm nuts as they have a rubber seal on them and shouldn't need to be too tight.

easy stuff really. I was surprised.

have fun. I found my one on ebay - £20 approx. does the disco td5 and defender..

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