L19MUD Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Does anyone know what the amp draw is likely to be from a glow plug? Assume 200tdi as the glow plugs in question are actually Daihatsu (cough!) Replaced the 4 glow plugs in my 2.8 Daihatsu buggy off roader and it melted all the wiring, on investigation it was wired via a toggle switch without a relay!!! I suspect the old ones had never worked Was thinking of switching via a winch solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 From memory they are rated at 90W nominal, so say 7.5 amps each. I'd guess that peak current could be 1.5 times nominal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I have a 300TDi. When first activated, the current per plug is about 12A, dropping to about 7A after 20 seconds or so. Should not need anything as big as a winch solenoid - one of these should do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 We used a winching relay as it was surplus when building the Hybrid. Think a good 30 Amp. relay should do it. Think about a fuse though - if it goes wrong, it could seriously go wrong.. Nothing wrong with the mentioned engine - good conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I once put a 2.8 Daihatsu engine in a Land Rover and was surprised how much current they took. I didn't measure it - but a winch type solenoid fixed the problem. IIRC wired in 10 sq mm cable, each individually back to the solenoid. Si P.S. Keep a careful eye on the engine temperature. The Cylinder heads crack very easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Thanks all. I have a spare winch Solenoid somewhere so will go with that. Si - it was previously fitted with linking wires from plug to plug and then just powered from the end plug. This shouldn't cause any problems should it? The buggy is based on a Daihatsu Fourtrak, will upload a picture later. In all honesty it is a bit of a rough conversion and the roll cage is hardly 'MSA' spec but it has provided me some fun in the past. I actually bought the glow plugs and a new clutch 18 months ago for it to get it ready for a pay and play day. That never happened so I am now fixing it up with the intention of selling Will be a cheap bit of fun for someone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 If you have the plug number, and you clearly have, because you bought some clean new ones, it's straightforward to get the plug spec off the web. The plugs used in the BMW 2.5 (RR P38A) take 16 amps each. The plugs used in the LR 2.25 parallel installation (NGK Y-403T) take 12 amps each. The plugs used in the early LR 2.5 (pre 200TDi) were Champion CH-63The CH-63 is 90W (~8 amps), and takes 30 seconds (at 11V) to reach max temp of 800 degrees C. The NGK modern replacement for the CH-93 is the Y-208T which has a 13-15 second heat up time (the T means fast heat up). For obvious reasons, all '12 volt' glow plugs are rated at 11 volts. The 'reduced value after xxx seconds' could well be a function of the original plug control unit, when any dashboard warning light goes out, but the plug continues to burn in a post starting configuration, designed to help more complete combustion in the first yyy seconds of running. The NGK part finder section may be as good a place to start as any. http://www.glowplugsdirect.com is an alternative. http://www.sparkplugsrus.com is another (yes, they have a glow plug section). HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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