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110 csw tub repair


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Hi all, rear axle back on disc brake conversion finished so thought I'd turn my attensions to the body work rear tub first. Quite a few of the bits need replacing after I'd got it upside down on a table so have ordered a floor kit from those wonderful people at YRM, but before i start removing rivits and such does anyone know of a tec article anywhere or can anyone who has done this offer any advise on the best way to go about it as the last thing I want is a pile of bits on the floor.

cheers Ian

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I am assuming you are referring to the steel rivets that hold the floor plate down to the wheel arch boxes. Grind the heads heads off then punch them out, they will go bang! I replaced them with sealed aluminium rivets and Crabond/Sikaflex (or whatever PU adhesive takes your fancy.

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yes sorry didn't put in what I was replacing but also got to replace the front tub supporting member, the rear quarter panels ,rear corners , rear body mounting member that bolts to the chassis and the floor and the supporting top hat struts underneath and also the c posts. Was trying to get my head round the best order in which to do things , whether it would be best to do the body bits first then the floor or vice versa

cheers Ian

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Take plenty of measurements at the door openings etc, if you're replacing 90% of the panels then it has a high chance of falling out of square (well, as square as a defender can be). Nothing worse than nice and shiny but won't line up when it comes to rebuilding.

I replaced the floor, top hat rails, outer wings, rear quarter panels and new b-pillar panels on my 90 tub which is slightly less involved compared to the 110. I did the floor section first, then the outer wings and rear quarter panels. After that I did the b-pillar repairs, during each process I tried to keep its measurements as close to the original...and it all went back together with relative ease.

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