Quagmire Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 2 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said: Squirt it now .... you know that deep down you really want to That sounds... a bit wrong if i'm honest! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 It's all a learning curve! I now have understanding that things may degrade for no apparent reason and is worth swapping things out. Now it's working I have no reason to fit megasquirt! I can continue improving and tweeking it! Hopefully at the next round I'll be running on 8 cylinders with a properly adjusted kick down cable and obviously new suspension! I can crack on with getting finished now! Thank you to all of your suggestions and things to try, I might take a bit more notice next time! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 It's been a busy couple of month, but in between all of that I've spent all the time on the Racer and now we're in good shape to take part at round 6 of the SCOR 4x4 Comp Safari. I've been fitting new rear arches and mud flaps, modifying the rear boot lid and adding new boot catches. It's now a half boot lid which may get changed over the winter to something more aesthetically pleasing! And I got the numbers on too! On the front I've got the engine/wheel well dividers installed, I used 2mm HPDE sheet and its great - I can cut it out with scissors! Also secured all the brake lines and painted the bonnet. I've also done the front wheel arches and mud flaps, but you'll have to wait for a final picture for that. Still a few bits to put back on the car, but we'll be racing! See you on Sunday! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Looking Good !! Have Fun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 (edited) So taking a vehicle that I've spent the last 9 months rebuilding and modifying straight to a comp safari with no testing and completing 11 out of the 12 laps with a minor mudflap issue, I think, is pretty good going! I drove it out of the garage to sort the last few bits out before loading it onto the trailer for Sunday. Bush farm was a new site over at Robertsbridge in East Sussex. The ground was grassy and damp in the morning so it made for a slippery morning or racing. The circuit was good with lots of wide open bits and tight bits between the trees. After the first 4 laps the course was closed as it was getting to fast for current MSA regulations and so some course changes were made adding some chicanes in to slow the course down. The course now included a tight C section down and up a steepish bank (kind of like the bank down by the A27 at Slindon). This progressively got more and more difficult to get up and by late afternoon when everyone was completing there last laps there were some failed accents. A few were me and because of the steep angle (and maybe my long mudflaps) I had no choice but to drive over one of my rear mud flaps causing the rear bracket to bend. I managed to get it home the first time and straighten it out in the pits, but the second time was more severe and had to stop on the track to straighten. After this we chose to DNF the 12th and last lap as it was just going to happen again! There was a high rate of reliability with only 2 vehicles falling short of the 12 laps. It was a lovely sunny day again, we truly have been lucky with the weather! The shocks did their job , but come mid afternoon it was getting bumpier again. Now the surface in the morning was damp cut grass with longish (growing) grass, (It made for very slippery slidey cornering!) and as the day went on the ground dried out and the grass disappeared. The ground was drying out with a washboard effect, I think, causing it to be bumpier. I have extended bump stops fitted and so I've already swapped to standard height ones for the next round as I don't know but the axle could be clipping the bump stop?... The car performed well, everything worked, nothing broke. I have already straightened the rear wheel arch bracket and trimmed the mud flaps. I've also fixed the rear view camera - the cable had come unplugged in the dash! The main thing I need to look at and maybe adjust on each lap at the next round is the kick down cable. I tried it low box and could hear it kick down when I had my foot to the floor, but I think it may have been to slow, but I tried it in high box and it wasn't really kicking down. Whether this is due to high box being too high, I'm not sure, but the engine wasn't revving as high as others! I had a look at the kick down cable and found you can pull it out until it stops then you can overcome some resistance and pull it out a little more. Now I'm guess this is the kick down bit and as far as the cable will come out, so this is where it needs to be adjusted too. But slackening this off will change your shift point right? I will also true doing manual gear selection at the next round too. So I'm pretty much ready for the last round over near Dover as I did all my repairs on Monday! Steve Edited September 27, 2017 by steve200TDi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Nice work Steve! I can feel the enthusiasm from here From your description, the kickdown does need adjusting to be tighter still, I've not pulled on a disconnected cable so can't compare what you describe there, but best way really is trial and error. I presume you have a tach... setting so it changes up at 5.5K in first high range is about right in my experience, as it is load-based, when in higher gears in high range the change up point drops slightly. In low box I'm guessing you will be manually shifting anyways.... Speaking of manually shifting, do you still have the Rangie shifter? Theses are... not the most reliable when treated badly enthusiastically, with a circlip coming loose at most inopportune moments meaning you can't switch gears into any of the lockout positions, leaving you stranded... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 Thanks Bowie, I will have to adjust it next time out! Yes I do still have a rangie shifter, I could look out for a replacement, although the fancy ones are quite expensive. Has anyone retrofitted one from another vehicle? With good results. I've been running in high box, so will check and adjust the shift point at the next race or sooner if I can find someone with some land to test on! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Sounds good steve! Good to see the improvements in reliability. Can you explain the speed bit? How do they decide its too fast? Do they have an average speed to adhere to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 3 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Sounds good steve! Good to see the improvements in reliability. Can you explain the speed bit? How do they decide its too fast? Do they have an average speed to adhere to? Yes, I haven't checked the rules, but my understanding is for a given course length the average speed should be below xmph and so giving you a minimum time the course length should be. The faster crews were coming in below this time and so changes had to be made. Yes reliability is good now, just need to work on my speed! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 This last week I've been playing with a new ebay purchase - a tyre changer. Read all about here: A week to go until the last round of the SCOR 4x4 comp safari series. Just need to made a gopro mount, adjust the kick down cable (ready to adjust at the track) and fit a few tyres. My Dad has also bought an L322 with a 4.4 V8 diesel, so we can test that out too Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Impressive !!!! Well Done - have fun & please keep it coming.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 The final round is compete! What contrast from the previous sunny, dry round. This round over at Tilmanstone was in a quarry, no grass in sight and lots of mud! Dad towed the racer there in the new Range Rover and the 4.4 V8 diesel had no problem with towing duties There was good turn out and two of my friends also made the long journey over to Dover with their racers too! The first lap was slow as I was learning the course and there were a few points during the lap where I wasn't sure where to go, but after 3 laps I had the course nailed and could crack on! After the first lap the rear wheel arches were struggling to stay up. This was due to the shear weight of mud that had been collected and this was just after one lap! We cleaned, straightened and continued, but on the 4th lap the rear wheel arch bracket sheered (this was the one that got bent at the last round). So after some spannering, I removed said wheel arch and shortened the other side. After that I could crack on and get the laps done! I did slacken the kick down cable, but it's still not how I want it, so that will be added to the list over the winter to look at. The aftermath The quarry was a really good track, some nice flowing section and really good fun. A wash off and trailer loaded, it was my turn to tow it home using the 90 that has been remapped! It performed well keeping to 60 on the way home! Now the list of things to look at: - wipers (they don't do the job!) - washer jets - kick down cable - rear wheel arches (more support needed) - check the steering, box could do with tightening or replacing - have a look at some new bodywork! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 On the wheel arches.... I think it was one of the HOFS cars that had a tube following the profile of the arch from above it would have looked like a ] shape. Out to near the edge, round it and then back to the car. Sitting the plastic arch against the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 28 minutes ago, landroversforever said: On the wheel arches.... I think it was one of the HOFS cars that had a tube following the profile of the arch from above it would have looked like a ] shape. Out to near the edge, round it and then back to the car. Sitting the plastic arch against the underside. I think I know what you mean. Get a tube roller and bend a piece of tube the same radius as the arch and support it all the way along. Yep I could do that, will have a think over the winter. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 First post here you can just see it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Ah yes, I see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 You get quite a few views of it in the build video too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 11 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said: You get quite a few views of it in the build video too Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Over Christmas I've been busy with Christmassy things and windscreen wiper things! I also got a 10 ton press for Xmas, so will be building that and playing with it soon! I could replace all the wiper boxes and motor and drive rod at nearly £100 or take two disco wiper assembly's from newbury for £5 and make a wiper system that hopefully wipes better. I mulled it over in my head and came up with a plan! This! I drilled the spot weld out of the motor bracket and trimmed it down. And made a mock up in the vice using some timber. Amazingly one of the linkages was the correct length, the other one I have to shorten. Using a bit of 50mm box section, I spaced it away from the windscreen the correct amount. I quick do with the multimeter and it was all wired up. There's a quick video which I will upload soon. Windscreen and wipers are all fitted and just need to look at the washer jets to man them up a bit! Now onto the rear wheel arch supports, I have employed so thicker wall tubing and you should see some results this week! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 A quick video: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 That's sure be a good wiper system! Always found the RR/Disco mechanism 100 times better than the sloppy Series/Defender version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 For the washer jets... RRC headlight washers are supposed to be a good pressure and volume of water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: For the washer jets... RRC headlight washers are supposed to be a good pressure and volume of water. I used Discovery Headlight washers with the Disco Headlight washer pump, Uses lots of water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Disco / RR Headlamp washer pumps flow a LOT of water and fit into a standard washer-bottle hole if you get the grommet with the pump. You don't wanna listen to them HOFS boys, they do everything wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 I've heard about disco TD5 headlight washer jet pumps, but didn't know they fitted into standard washer bottle holes. Good to know! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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